Rough Idle when cold
#1
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
New to this forum, but have been a proud X-Type owner for nearl 5 years now.
In the past couple of months I have noticed my 2002 X-Type 3.0 Sport has been idling roughly upon startup when the engine is cold. The car is always parked indoors so it only takes about 2 minutes for the engine to warm up and reach the spped it always idles at (if you know what I mean, usually when you first start your car it revs a little bit higher, around 1250 rpm ish..). Anyways, while it is warming up it is idling quite rough, nothing noticeable on the tachometer but I can sure feel the roughness in the seat.
My car has around 125,000 km on it and has never had the spark plugs changed (my bad, I will be doing it shortly). Do you think this could be the problem or has anybody else ran into this and found the actual problem?
I will also be changing out my air filter for a k&n and be replacing the fuel filter all when I do the plugs.
*On a side note has anybody tried out E3 Spark Plugs in an X-Type? I actually noticed an ad for them on this site. Can anybody reccomend them for use in the X-Type and if not reccomend me the proper best performance plugs?
Thanks in advance, look forward to hearing your comments!
AK
In the past couple of months I have noticed my 2002 X-Type 3.0 Sport has been idling roughly upon startup when the engine is cold. The car is always parked indoors so it only takes about 2 minutes for the engine to warm up and reach the spped it always idles at (if you know what I mean, usually when you first start your car it revs a little bit higher, around 1250 rpm ish..). Anyways, while it is warming up it is idling quite rough, nothing noticeable on the tachometer but I can sure feel the roughness in the seat.
My car has around 125,000 km on it and has never had the spark plugs changed (my bad, I will be doing it shortly). Do you think this could be the problem or has anybody else ran into this and found the actual problem?
I will also be changing out my air filter for a k&n and be replacing the fuel filter all when I do the plugs.
*On a side note has anybody tried out E3 Spark Plugs in an X-Type? I actually noticed an ad for them on this site. Can anybody reccomend them for use in the X-Type and if not reccomend me the proper best performance plugs?
Thanks in advance, look forward to hearing your comments!
AK
#2
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
Posts: 7,254
Received 2,193 Likes
on
1,359 Posts
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You can fix your vacuum leak when cold(cold orings leak air when old, when they warm alittle they expand and leak gone, but will get worse) when you do plugs. Replace all upper and lower intake gasket orings, both imt orings, and a new pcv hose(new style is ribbed instead of smooth) i would only recommend factory style replacement plugs.
#3
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I picked up the new ribbed style PVC hose last week when my original one finally split. It was only about $11 from the dealer and took about 2 minutes to install. I probably should have done it as preventive maintenance ahead of time.
The K&N will have no benefit other than it is washable, I've had one in this car for over 5 years. Don't go bonkers on the oil when you re-oil it in the future.
Agree with Brutal, use the OEM replacement plugs.
Welcome to the Forum! Hope to see you posting regularly.
The K&N will have no benefit other than it is washable, I've had one in this car for over 5 years. Don't go bonkers on the oil when you re-oil it in the future.
Agree with Brutal, use the OEM replacement plugs.
Welcome to the Forum! Hope to see you posting regularly.
#4
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks for the input guys. I have replaced teh PCV hose and the o-rings a couple years ago so I dont think that is what is causing the idle problem, any other ideas?
Also, my car seems to be rather sluggish and not as responsive as I think I remember it being and that I wish it would be! I notice the lack in response and overall power especially when staring out in 1st gear (5 spd). It is not that bad at all just not what it should be IMO. Could this also be attributed to the spark plugs being 125,000km old? Any other ideas?
Also, my car seems to be rather sluggish and not as responsive as I think I remember it being and that I wish it would be! I notice the lack in response and overall power especially when staring out in 1st gear (5 spd). It is not that bad at all just not what it should be IMO. Could this also be attributed to the spark plugs being 125,000km old? Any other ideas?
#6
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
Posts: 7,254
Received 2,193 Likes
on
1,359 Posts
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
you replaced the upper and lower intake gaskets already??
generally the brake booster hose and brake booster diaphram leaking dont go away when warmed up. but IMT and intake, and injection manifold(lower intake) orings do. Anyway look at the check valve inline on the brake booster pipe for disintegration and rpelace if it is or heat shrink a large piece of heat shrink over it
generally the brake booster hose and brake booster diaphram leaking dont go away when warmed up. but IMT and intake, and injection manifold(lower intake) orings do. Anyway look at the check valve inline on the brake booster pipe for disintegration and rpelace if it is or heat shrink a large piece of heat shrink over it
The following users liked this post:
rickbct (01-24-2014)
#7
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have a similar problem. After a cold start the rpm in idle drop immediately down to 700 -750 rpm and the engine starts to shake. If I drive and raise revs it is only a little rough but having to stop I have to go to N otherwise it is shaking. After warming up it runs smooth. If you stop then for 1 hour, not such effect.
How long should the rev remain 1100 rpm and to what rpm drop after a while before down to 700+ rpm?
How long should the rev remain 1100 rpm and to what rpm drop after a while before down to 700+ rpm?
Trending Topics
#8
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
you replaced the upper and lower intake gaskets already??
generally the brake booster hose and brake booster diaphram leaking dont go away when warmed up. but IMT and intake, and injection manifold(lower intake) orings do. Anyway look at the check valve inline on the brake booster pipe for disintegration and rpelace if it is or heat shrink a large piece of heat shrink over it
generally the brake booster hose and brake booster diaphram leaking dont go away when warmed up. but IMT and intake, and injection manifold(lower intake) orings do. Anyway look at the check valve inline on the brake booster pipe for disintegration and rpelace if it is or heat shrink a large piece of heat shrink over it
Thanks
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)