Shifter interlock failure, and my workaround, ideas?
#1
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Greetings,
So I recently purchased an 03 x-type 2.5. This is the first problem I have experienced with the car.
The car started, and said gearbox fault, and refused to come out of park.
Being the EE that I am, and facing the fact that it was sunday morning and that my car would now be stuck till at least monday, I decided to have a look and at least try and diagnose the problem.
Well here is what I found, and what I did. I took apart the "j-gate" and realized that there is an electrical solenoid, that lowers a flap to allow the car to shift out of park, when the brakes are applied.
The shifter did not light up, and the s switch had no response.
First thing i did was physically lower the flap by hand, and the car came out of park, and I managed to engage both reverse and drive, and go back into park. So the car still physically moves, great.
Next thing I did, was clip a couple of test leads to the solenoid itself to see if it was getting voltage. Nothing, the car is not sending a signal to lower that flap.
Next, I tested the solenoid by applying voltage across it (hint the top terminal is negative) this can be determined by looking at the diode across it - the stripe is negative. So I took my trusty 12v cordless drill battery, and tapped 12v to the solenoid, and like clockwork the flap dropped. Suprisingly the shifter lit up, and the s switch seemed to work when power was applied in this way. So, I decided that I could wire a workaround to that solenoid so it would drop when the ignition started, and be on my way.
So that's exactly what I did. There are two orange wires that go to the solenoid, from the top of the J-gate. I tested continuity and then ran a wire to a +12v ignition switched source, and ground. I left the wires intact, just spliced onto them. The car still has a red bar when it starts in the dash, doesn't say gearbox fault at all, and the red bar goes away once the car comes out of gear.
So, any idea to what has failed? I'm thinking either the brake microswitch, or something in the circuitry of the J-gate.
The one thing im sort of worried about is the possiblility of harming the transmission by driving the car around like this, even though the car at least so far seems to be driving fine. Any ideas of if its fine just to leave it like that, or any more specific testing procedures to be performed.
Take care,
George
So I recently purchased an 03 x-type 2.5. This is the first problem I have experienced with the car.
The car started, and said gearbox fault, and refused to come out of park.
Being the EE that I am, and facing the fact that it was sunday morning and that my car would now be stuck till at least monday, I decided to have a look and at least try and diagnose the problem.
Well here is what I found, and what I did. I took apart the "j-gate" and realized that there is an electrical solenoid, that lowers a flap to allow the car to shift out of park, when the brakes are applied.
The shifter did not light up, and the s switch had no response.
First thing i did was physically lower the flap by hand, and the car came out of park, and I managed to engage both reverse and drive, and go back into park. So the car still physically moves, great.
Next thing I did, was clip a couple of test leads to the solenoid itself to see if it was getting voltage. Nothing, the car is not sending a signal to lower that flap.
Next, I tested the solenoid by applying voltage across it (hint the top terminal is negative) this can be determined by looking at the diode across it - the stripe is negative. So I took my trusty 12v cordless drill battery, and tapped 12v to the solenoid, and like clockwork the flap dropped. Suprisingly the shifter lit up, and the s switch seemed to work when power was applied in this way. So, I decided that I could wire a workaround to that solenoid so it would drop when the ignition started, and be on my way.
So that's exactly what I did. There are two orange wires that go to the solenoid, from the top of the J-gate. I tested continuity and then ran a wire to a +12v ignition switched source, and ground. I left the wires intact, just spliced onto them. The car still has a red bar when it starts in the dash, doesn't say gearbox fault at all, and the red bar goes away once the car comes out of gear.
So, any idea to what has failed? I'm thinking either the brake microswitch, or something in the circuitry of the J-gate.
The one thing im sort of worried about is the possiblility of harming the transmission by driving the car around like this, even though the car at least so far seems to be driving fine. Any ideas of if its fine just to leave it like that, or any more specific testing procedures to be performed.
Take care,
George
#3
#4
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I worked my way through university back from 1987-1992working in a car audio shop. I installed radios, alarms, radar detectors, phones, starters etc... I ripped every car you can imagine to pieces and together again. From mercs and bimmers to rolls royces to Ferraris.. even Jags then too.
that was whenI fell in love with the 1988 M5.
I was a certified licenced automotive electrician. ( now mechanical engineer) There were daily cases of electrical problemsthat we had to solve quickly. The first step was always check the fuses by running a test light across the teminals. Normally if a fuse was blown then putting a new one only blew right away.... but at least it gave an indication of what was going on.
that was whenI fell in love with the 1988 M5.
I was a certified licenced automotive electrician. ( now mechanical engineer) There were daily cases of electrical problemsthat we had to solve quickly. The first step was always check the fuses by running a test light across the teminals. Normally if a fuse was blown then putting a new one only blew right away.... but at least it gave an indication of what was going on.
#5
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Location: Glasgow, Scotland UK
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ORIGINAL: bojangles
I worked my way through university back from 1987-1992working in a car audio shop. I installed radios, alarms, radar detectors, phones, starters etc... I ripped every car you can imagine to pieces and together again. From mercs and bimmers to rolls royces to Ferraris.. even Jags then too.
that was whenI fell in love with the 1988 M5.
I was a certified licenced automotive electrician. ( now mechanical engineer) There were daily cases of electrical problemsthat we had to solve quickly. The first step was always check the fuses by running a test light across the teminals. Normally if a fuse was blown then putting a new one only blew right away.... but at least it gave an indication of what was going on.
I worked my way through university back from 1987-1992working in a car audio shop. I installed radios, alarms, radar detectors, phones, starters etc... I ripped every car you can imagine to pieces and together again. From mercs and bimmers to rolls royces to Ferraris.. even Jags then too.
that was whenI fell in love with the 1988 M5.
I was a certified licenced automotive electrician. ( now mechanical engineer) There were daily cases of electrical problemsthat we had to solve quickly. The first step was always check the fuses by running a test light across the teminals. Normally if a fuse was blown then putting a new one only blew right away.... but at least it gave an indication of what was going on.
Hey Bo,
why dint you say you were certified? lol
I meant of course certified auto electrician. You must be very knowledgable in this area I would guess, check out the post re lights and lets have your opinion please.
Much appreciated mate
Jim C
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Hey Bo,
the gist of it is -that as standard X's are fitted with 6 off H1's rated at 55w (dipped beam) / 60w (full beam)
I have upgraded to 80w / 100w sportzblue bulbs. Seems to be a few people up in arms saying that its too much wattage, raising the amps, will the wiring loom take it, the battery will die, the alternator will give up the ghost, car will catch fire and the world will end basically.
I'm saying that I took advice from 2 auto electricians who said that it shouldn't be a problem, everything is over engineered these days and that they personally know plenty boy racer types who have fitted these with no probs.
Whats your experienced opinion Bo?
Cheers
Jim C
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I guess technically the answer is "it depends" I need to see how our lights are wired up from the factory. I also have xenons so I cant check on my car. My guess is that since all the lights run through a LCM (light control module) that there must be at least relays for main and dipped beams, and possibly seperate relays for left and right sides.
Most relays for lights are good for 30 amps each .. more than enough to support the brighteh bulbs.
The wiring also should be OK,
I know the X type has a very sophisticated battery charging system, to deal with thehigh level of electronics. It is a unique system and I doubt there will be any issue keeping the batter charged or over taxing the alternator. I think there is some reading on www.jaguartechinfo.com take a look there if you are bored one day (youneed to pay for a subscription)
I suppose we should compare the alternator capacity .. my car has the heated winscreen that adds a way bigger draw than bigger lights..
I really would not worry at all about it.... the first thing to give would be the fuses.. they have to be weaker than the wiring and relays.. so as long as you are not blowing the original fuse size.. then all is cool
Most relays for lights are good for 30 amps each .. more than enough to support the brighteh bulbs.
The wiring also should be OK,
I know the X type has a very sophisticated battery charging system, to deal with thehigh level of electronics. It is a unique system and I doubt there will be any issue keeping the batter charged or over taxing the alternator. I think there is some reading on www.jaguartechinfo.com take a look there if you are bored one day (youneed to pay for a subscription)
I suppose we should compare the alternator capacity .. my car has the heated winscreen that adds a way bigger draw than bigger lights..
I really would not worry at all about it.... the first thing to give would be the fuses.. they have to be weaker than the wiring and relays.. so as long as you are not blowing the original fuse size.. then all is cool
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