Should I replace the engine....
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#2
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Bambam4469, I've moved your post in the feedback/advice section to it's own thread in the X-Type section where it will get more visibility and better response for you.
As this is your first post, please take moment to visit the New member section and post an intro.
New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
As this is your first post, please take moment to visit the New member section and post an intro.
New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
#3
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Bambam, first off, I guess the question is really how bad is the engine hurt. If it is just needing a new head gasket, replacing the engine is kinda overkill as I see it (granted, may be more financially feasible). As for sticking a Ford motor in there, keep in mind that there are some oddities with the Jaguar engine (ie, water pump on the back side of the engine for example) that may make putting the Ford engine in not a desireable thing (getting at the water pump on the Ford engine would be a real pain inside of the Jag). Also, you may be taking a step backwards in power too unless you transferred over a lot of the accessories (mainly the intake). Also keep in mind that you would most likely need to also keep the jaguar exhuast unless you intend on trying to convert it over to something more like what the Contours have, but that would be a major expense.
I would say to see what you can find with a low mileage jaguar engine (they seem to be getting more and more common these days) and see what that will cost you if you do go the engine replacement direction. I can only really see replacing the engine if you ran it for some time with water in the oil. Then, well, the block is pretty much trashed and needs replacement anyways. Otherwise I would see what they want to just replace the head gasket.
I would say to see what you can find with a low mileage jaguar engine (they seem to be getting more and more common these days) and see what that will cost you if you do go the engine replacement direction. I can only really see replacing the engine if you ran it for some time with water in the oil. Then, well, the block is pretty much trashed and needs replacement anyways. Otherwise I would see what they want to just replace the head gasket.
#4
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Now is about the only acceptable time to use a little "Better Living through Chemistry": Throw a bottle - or two - of Bar's Leak brand Head Gasket & Cooling System Stop-Leak into the cooling system.
It's about $60 USD per bottle, and most likely will fix the head gasket leak.
Personally, I would remove one end of the upper radiator hose and pour it in there, and then drive it for an hour at least. If you just pour it into the reservoir, it might simply settle to the bottom of the tank.
There are other chemical compounds out there also specifically for head gaskets, but the best of them require draining down the coolant, filling with the product and clear water only, and then draining down the water and adding coolant after it has sealed.
I am not a big fan of using Bar's Leak, but "in a pinch" I do use it, and it has never failed. The product shown here is a new version I have never used, but the $6 Cooling System type has yet to fail for me in the past. The coolant appearance may change to that of lumpless diarrhea, and when a "proper" fix is applied (ie: a new head gasket) the system will have to be power-flushed to rid it of the Barr's Leak.
Let the screaming at my post - by the "purists" - begin!
(But I say $60 and the car is fixed now beats $1,500 and you have to wait)
It's about $60 USD per bottle, and most likely will fix the head gasket leak.
Personally, I would remove one end of the upper radiator hose and pour it in there, and then drive it for an hour at least. If you just pour it into the reservoir, it might simply settle to the bottom of the tank.
There are other chemical compounds out there also specifically for head gaskets, but the best of them require draining down the coolant, filling with the product and clear water only, and then draining down the water and adding coolant after it has sealed.
I am not a big fan of using Bar's Leak, but "in a pinch" I do use it, and it has never failed. The product shown here is a new version I have never used, but the $6 Cooling System type has yet to fail for me in the past. The coolant appearance may change to that of lumpless diarrhea, and when a "proper" fix is applied (ie: a new head gasket) the system will have to be power-flushed to rid it of the Barr's Leak.
Let the screaming at my post - by the "purists" - begin!
(But I say $60 and the car is fixed now beats $1,500 and you have to wait)
Last edited by Bruce in North Dakota; 01-05-2014 at 02:10 PM. Reason: bad speeling
#5
Whoever told you putting a ford engine in would be cheaper A) doesn't know any better or B) lied to you. Sure it will bolt to the trans but the block and heads are only a few of the parts that are the same between the ford and jag duratec engines. There is no guarantee that the wiring harness will work, or that the computer will be able to control things properly, or that the engine will even fit properly since the contour 2.5s have a different front engine covers from the 3.0s in other fords to place the accessories in the right places depending on the car. The contour V6s do have the water pump in the rear of the engine like the Jags though. But just have the head gasket fixed, or replace it with a Jag v6. Like its been said, used jag engines are getting as cheap as the ford versions now anyway.
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