You go Chris![sm=icon_rock.gif]

 

"I figure I will dump in 500 ml of fluid to do the flush and then the other 500 ml of fluid left in the bottle to fill the transfer case back up"

i'm not sure why you'd want to put more than 400ml in after reading my post and bo's post.

 

sez, I thought they were saying that they only got out 400 ml and were short due to a little bit of leakage. Some of the techs say the proper refill amount is 550 ml. Even so, if I spit a little bit of fluid out the vent due to a bit too much, no big deal. I would rather have a little bit extra in the transfer case than not enough. More fluid will help ensure the fluid can transfer all the heat it needs to as more will be in contact with the case and will be more of a heat sink as there is more fluid there to absorb any heat being produced.

 

Ok all, the nasty deed is done. I ran into 2 problems with this, so bare with me on this. The first problem is that when I pulled the drain plug, I got ZERO!!!! fluid out. Car has been driving fine and there's no fluid leaking at the transfer case. But, I did notice a fair amount of fluid in the area of a coupling on the first half of the rear driveshaft. So, my question is this: is there a hollow shaft for the driveshaft and my fluid loss is from this point about 2 feet from the transfer case? If I need to take a pic, I will. It is possible that it is simply a collection of oil from my oil plug leaking ever so slowly, but I would expect to see fluid on say the driveshaft (which there isn't any).

As for problem 2: the parts list that I made up the first time (ball valve, bushing, etc) does not work!!! You can modify the valve to make it bolt up (which I did). The issue comes when you go to attach the nipple with the hose on it. The valve sticks out far enough and down enough that with the hose attached, you can't get the nipple on. If you go with a smaller barbed nipple, then it should work. But, I went a different path.

So back to Home Depot/auto parts store and I got some more pieces. This time I got:
-brass fitting 1/2" MIP x 3/8" FIP (Watts part number A-828, plumbing section)
-brass fitting 3/8" MIP x 1/4" FIP (Watts part number A-778, plumbing section)
-1/2" OD x 5/16" ID clear tygon tubing (need minimum of 3 feet).
-1/4" NPT radiator drain valve (Dorman part number 61106) (note, don't pick up just any drain valve, this one has a collar on it that allows you to attach the tygon hose to it)

If you look at the attachments, you can see the original valve, my new valve (standing straight up with the T-handle on top), the valve installed and tucked up under the car, and then the pics of the valve open and shut.

If I can figure out how to post a pic and put writing around it, then I will re-write this and add comments directly to the pics.

If you have any questions, just ask.

[IMG]local://upfiles/4028/3A09F804F03A4EC7869AF222C1776F51.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/4028/DDD3BEEB3B7B4DD58497D9E18FAC7832.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/4028/AC534C97416844748217D8D19713ED88.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/4028/382F9F3B4F884BA38CDF5000400CB0D4.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/4028/CC3951FD5231450383F395282D154350.jpg[/IMG]

 

Man that no fluid thing scares me!

put the pics in with the code below - just don't put any spaces...
[ i m g ] enter url here [ / i m g ]

 

Good Job Chris...you have a Manual right? (Sport)..See, that valve assembly you made won't work on the AUTO tranny..the clearances between the tranny and TC is much tighter..so I could only fit in a barbed fitting and barely screwed it in enough to hold, then I was quick about removing it and getting the plug back in..I had to grind down the edges too like you did.

 

Dennis, I don't have the sport model. This is on a 3.0L motor (2003) with an automatic tranny. You are right. There isn't a lot of clearance there. But, the setup I created works really nicely. The filling of the transfer case takes about 15 minutes because of the size of the tubing. But, other than that, not too bad. Also note that the 1/2" x 3/8" fitting needs to have the hex portion ground down a little bit due to the plug being positioned next to a support piece. Putting the fittings together and getting the one fitting ground down takes about 15 minutes. Not hard as long as you have a bench grinder. Could be done with a file, but obviously taking a little bit longer.

As time goes on, I will check the survivability of the piece.

 

Ok, here we go with a more detailed explaination on the fill valve.

I used a 1/2" x 3/8" brass fitting, a 3/8" x 1/4" brass fitting, a 1/4" NPT radiator drain plug, and 1/2" OD/5/16" ID clear tubing.


This is the original valve that I created. It fits but also requires serious modification. The threaded part for the handle needed to be shaved down and the end with the plug needed to be filed down some to give a little bit more clearance for installing the plug. It worked, but I found out that when using a medium size barb fitting (as referenced above), with the tubing attached, it ran into a clearance issue on a rib on the tranny. You might be able to use the valve if you go with a smaller barb fitting. NOTE: the barb fitting needs to be shortened on both ends. You need to grind down about half of the treaded end and remove half of the barbed end (leave 1 or 2 barbs).


This is the second valve I created. This one works. Please note that the top of the valve has a cylinder attached to it. Not all radiator drain valves have this piece on them. So, when you buy one, make sure the valve has this on it. Without it, attaching a tube becomes next to impossible.


As you can see, the valve tucks up and out of the way very nicely. The odds of this getting hit are very small. Short of bottoming out the car, you are not going to hit this valve.


This is showing the valve closed. There is about 1/4" gap between the end of the valve and the rib on the tranny. This isn't an issue as there is about a 1/5" deep recess on the side of the tranny to give you room to run a tube. Also note that there is a 1/2" deep opening on the end of the valve. This is vital in making this valve work. You insert the clear tube into this opening. The 1/2" OD tubing gives a decent seal and still allows the valve to be turned without getting the tubing all twisted up. Now, I will admit getting the tubing into the end of the valve is not the easiest job, but can be done with a little bit of work. it is easiest done with the valve in the open position.


This is the showing the valve open. Notice that with the valve open, it actually gives you more clearance to get the tubing on.

Hopefully this will give you a good idea of what all is involved. Total cost is about $13 ($2 for each fitting, $6 for the tubing, $3 for the drain valve). Of note, you can use the nipple on the quart bottle of gear lube and stick that in the end of the tubing and squeeze the bottle to add lube to the transfer case. You can also attach a funnel to the tip of tubing and then let it gravity fill. I used the nipple on the bottle and helped to push it into the transfer case.

 

Christo, by the way, the coding you posted isn't quite right. After a bit of playing, it is actually image instead of img. Once I used the whole word (image), it all worked just fine. Thought I would pass this one to help clarify things.

 

Nice pics...that is scary not having fluid in a sealed for life part on the car...

 

aquill, the sad part of this is that there is no way to check the fluid level without draining the case. There has to be a better way to do things than this. But, what do I know.

 

Lol that is retarded...I don't understand their reasoning nor how come nobody has raped jaguar with lawsuits to at least get their cars fixed??? They sell a product that isn't made to be checked/maintained or refilled, sounds like problems would have to be their problem.

 

I wonder if anyone can clear up a question for me . Can you overfill the Transfer case ? And what happens if you do? I have an 2004 2.5 with a 5 speed manual with 76,000 mile on it, Which valve system would work for me . My Jagis running great but all this transfer case issues is freaking me out that i need to at least pull the plug on mine to see if there is any fluid in there.
Thanks.

John Mac.

 

I think the general consensus is that you can indeed overfill the t-case, and that when you do, it typically results in weeping oil from the vent on the top... which then drains down the right-side of the t-case, getting all over the undercarriage, and eventually burning-off on the exhaust, making for that o-so-pleasant smell of burning lube when stationary at a stop light.....

 

I think it's worse when you have that oh-so-ugly smoke rolling from the underneath of a jag that would make me feel good...[&:]

 

Thermo,
Superb write up. It's great alternative to the ball check valve method and it's the one I choose to use on my 3L auto. It worked just perfectly.
The only suggestion I would make is that there was 1/2 MIP to 1/4 FIP adapter available at Home Depot. Using that allowe me to attach the radiator drain **** without the middle adapter. Which was what I needed to fit the fill tube between the valve assembly and the automatic transmission rib.

Thanks again for the great idea and write up!

 

TOny, atleast on my car, I don't think I could have fit the valve in had the extra little bit of the two fittings been in there. I may buy the fitting that you talk about and see if I can get it to work. I know there isn't a lot of room there and getting something to fit in there is quite the balance. But, having that extra half inch would be nice.

 

Perhaps a quick edit before the girls get ahold of it?

 

h2oboy, when you are only starting with 2", adding that extra half inch makes a big difference.!!!!!!

 

Waaaaay too much information