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Sputtering when cold starting and brakes tend to not engage. Vacuum tubes?
Hi. I have perused the site and done a lot of research to fix a few problems but the mechanics out here in Las Cruces NM charge and obscene amount for labor so now I am looking at fixing what I can myself instead of essentially outsourcing to them. (I am originally from Chattanooga TN and had a great mechanic there that didn't break my bank account to fix things.)
So as it stands: 2002, X-type, 2.5L
Issue: Sputtering on start that continues until I have held it at 2-3k rpm for as long as 60 seconds. It also seems to disengage the brakes from being able to apply very properly. I did run across another post at one point which someone indicated that potentially this issue could stem from the vacuum tube(s) having a leak.
My issue is that I am not sure exactly what I am looking for with the vacuum tube(s) (Visually) and if that actually could be the issue the engine is having.
If anyone knowledgeable would be able to give me some feedback on this with a preferable picture or two of what I am looking for when I jack the car up and get the wheel off and take a look that would be fantastic. I appreciate any and all assistance in rectifying this issue.
SilverXtype2K2: The likely culprit is a vacuum leak in the check valve between the intake manifold and the brake booster. The rough idle is caused by air leaking into the intake manifold, and the dodgy brakes happen when your power brakes don't getting full vacuum due to the leak. This is a common in our older X-Types, and fortunately easy and inexpensive to diagnose & fix.
Attached is a Jaguar technical service bulletin describing the problem, because it's common. Don't worry that the picture of the intake manifold is different from our 2.5L and 3.0L engines - the check valve and vacuum hose are similar. It can be tricky to unplug the hose connector from the top of the intake manifold, so take care not to break the plastic connector. First press down on the connector to release it, then pull up. Some call it a 'chinese finger' connector.
Let us know if this solves your problem. If not, many good folks here will offer other suggestions.
If it's a leak you can tell from fuel trims (LTFTs). A cheap elm327 should be all you need to watch them. The spray small amounts of a burnable gas near each suspect in turn, watching STFTs. They go crazy at the leak.
Silver: That crusty check valve certainly looks like you found the culprit. If you wish to confirm while you await the replacement part, patch it temporarily, per the earlier post, to be certain your idle and brake problems stop.
You say you're "going to replace the intake manifold gaskets", but the ebay link is for 2 green IMT O-rings. So I presume you plan to replace the IMT O-rings (which is a good idea and easy to do), and not the intake manifold gaskets (which is more difficult, and probably not necessary until you have a reason to remove the intake manifold, e.g., to replace the spark plugs).
There are many posts about replacing the IMT O-rings (because they're a common cause of vacuum leaks), but feel free to ask if you have questions. You may find the old IMT O-rings are factory original yellow and will break as you remove them. That's ok. The new, green O-rings will be much more elastic and won't break when you install them carefully.
Elm327 reads the car's error codes to diagnose a problem and, after the problem is fixed, clears the codes and turns off the check engine light. But we think you already found the source of your vacuum leak, so a code reader isn't necessary. However, if you plan to learn and do more work on your car, a code reader will be extremely useful. Do an advanced search of this form for the words "Elm327" and "Torque", particularly by a very clever member named "Thermo" to learn more about code readers. LTFT and STFT are one of many engine diagnostics you can access with a good code reader and software. Elm327 and Torque are just two examples, as you'll soon learn.
I replaced the brake booster hose monday and it's been giving me cruise not available on a fairly consistent basis. It seems to happen really when the car sits for a bit or sits idling. I rev to 2750rpm and it sputters or supresses itself back down and I let off and drive normal not getting near 2750rpm and after a couple minutes cruise not available goes away.
It's a marked improvement in the time it takes for brakes to bleed out when i start it up and all but this cruise not available happening so consistently has me wondering what else it could be. (When my engine is cooled off this evening i'm going to replace the o-rings since they came in as well and i'm maybe hoping it's those just being very worn out.)
Any suggestions on what it could be that would continue to cause that to happen? My only thought was maybe that little slip valve system they have where the brake booster hose goes into the top of the engine could be causing it to happen if the little plastic piece it settles into is letting air in.
Silver: That ELM327 will work for your X-Type. For software, download an ODB app, e.g., Torque for an Android, or OBD Car Doctor or Carista for an iPhone. Other's are welcome to suggest their favorite OBD app.
After you replace the IMT O-rings, clear any old error codes using the ELM327, then drive a few days and see if new codes appear. They could help you diagnose the 'cruise not available', if it continues after the new IMT O-rings.
To check the vacuum hose connection for leaks, do as JagV8 suggests: Use your ELM327 to monitor the STFT (Short Term Fuel Trim) of the idling engine while spraying a 'fuel' such as carb cleaner around the connector. If carb cleaner gets past the connector and sucked into the manifold, the STFT will jump around when the ECU injects less gasoline thru the fuel injectors to compensate for the added carb cleaner 'fuel'. Repeat for any suspect vacuum leak.
When you replace the IMT O-rings, you'll see the lower IMT valve won't come completely out because the valve cover is in the way. No worries. Remove the old O-ring, which is brittle from heat and will likely break. Then, carefully stretch a new O-ring over the IMT valve from the back / electrical connector side. The new one is still elastic and will stretch without snapping. It's also thicker than the old one (good - less prone to leaks), so lubricate it with a little engine oil if that helps slide it back into the manifold.
Don't be surprised to see engine oil inside the manifold. It's normal and got there thru the PVC valve and hose. If oil is puddled inside, it's a good idea to replace the PCV valve: only a few $'s and a few minutes.
I can't tell if your PCV hose is the factory smooth original, or the ribbed replacement. If smooth, replace with a ribbed hose, which is less prone to leak.
Ask of you have any questions. Plenty of people here who have more suggestions to offer.
I will take a look and try to do it tomorrow in the morning but most likely doing all of that will be the afternoon for trying to figure the rest out.
By connector you mean area's like where the brake booster hose slides into the manifold and such I take it. (i am still familiarizing myself with much of the terminology and what people mean. Getting a working knowledge of things and testing at current and application.)
I am going to look up where to connect the elm327 as at current i have no clue where to hook it up at.
Silver: The connector to test for a vacuum leak is the connector you refer to as the "little slip valve system they have where the brake booster hose goes into the top of the engine". The 'little slip valve' is the black & white check valve in the brake booster vacuum line. 'Into the top of the engine' is into the aluminum intake manifold.
When your ELM327 arrives, you'll discover a plug for it under the dash, above the driver's left foot, in front of and above the fuse panel. If you pull out the small cubby hole for sun glasses, by the driver's left knee, you'll see the OBD port (On Board Diagnostics) thru the now open hole.
FYI, the ODB port for all cars seems to be under the driver-side dash. Sometimes it's under the steering column, or, in our X-Types, closer to the driver's door hinge.
No dumb questions here. We all start with no experience curve and learn by doing.
Once you get in new line do you have to do anything to the the pedal ? my fix dint work you can see why i broke it so close to oil filter on 95-97 xj6 and the lines not straight goes in different directions
Last edited by AMANDUH; 10-29-2015 at 11:51 AM.
Reason: more pics
Your attempt to patch the old line is commendable and creative, but is not applying sufficient engine vacuum to the brake booster. I.e., the brake pedal is hard because there's little to no vacuum helping you push the brake pedal.
After you install the new brake vacuum line and start the engine, the brake pedal will be easier to depress. The engine creates a vacuum, which travels thru this new hose and multiplies the force your foot applies to the brake pedal.
If you are unsure how to route and install the new vacuum line, ask an independent mechanic, preferably with Jaguar experience, to install it.
Ok so I found this little nugget when I had the cover off and was changing out the O-rings.
I believe it's the oxygen sensor. (My best guess since I don't know)
I am thinking it's the cause of the constant cruise not available and when I tried starting my car this morning it died trying to idle after start up and sputtered and I am pretty sure misfired and caused a horrendous smell when I revved it up trying to get it to get the engine going.
I am going to strip what I can of the broken wire and put the copper together and solder the two parts together and put some electrical tape on it. Hoping that I can fix it.
Not sure how to relieve the pressure on the clip so that I can move it more onto the plastic pipe for a better fit.
Silver: The grey connector in your hand looks like 1 of 2 upstream O2 sensors. This post has pictures of all 4 sensors, two by the brake booster, and 2 by the battery. The grey connectors are upstream. Black connectors are downstream. If you can't patch the wire, there are several posts in this forum showing how to replace the entire sensor, because they eventually fail with age: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...4/#post1084230
I added 'how to' instructions to release and re-clip the metal air duct band. Some folks forgot or did not bother to re-install the clips and had problems with air leaking into the duct thru the loose joint.
The fix has failed and I am not confident that I can fix it. It is here:
This is to the left of the air intake for the car but to the right of where you put oil into the engine.
The wire runs under the intake manifold it seems and I am happy to go get a replacement if I know which wire I am replacing. So if you know precisely which one it is for me to order (or are they the same wire for bank 1 and bank 2?) then I can try to fix it today before work.
When I tried to start the car it immediately turned over and then stopped so I am certain it faulted due to the connection not being solid enough.
So if I do like I was before and I keep revving it up it now doesn't just keep the rev's up it will go back down to around 750 to 250rpm and basically try to die out. Possible that it's the starter motor?
Silver: I'm glad you took this picture. That's not an O2 sensor. It's the engine's coolant temperature sensor.
Check with Dr dome - a member of this forum who parts out X-Types. I believe our X-Types use the same temperature sensor for coolant and oil. Ask Dr. dome for a salvaged electrical connector for either a coolant or an oil temperature sensor. He'll know if they're interchangeable.
Silver: Check with Dr dome on the connector. You may need to splice a salvaged connector into your harness, or replace more of the engine wiring harness than just this connector. Tell Dr. dome you have a 2002. Jaguar changed the X-Type wiring in early 2004. He'll suggest how much of the harness you should replace vs. splice.
The starter motor has an important job for ~5-10 seconds each time you turn the ignition key to the start position to get the engine started. The rest of the time the starter does literally nothing, and won't cause a slow, rough idle or stall.
250 rpm is too low. Normal idle speed is ~650-750 RPM with the A/C and defroster off. How does the engine run when you keep it above idle? Any check engine light or error codes? Could be as simple as a very dirty throttle body, air filter or fuel injectors, very old spark plugs, etc. More info would be helpful.
Well until I changed out the brake booster it didn't consistently keep having the issue with cruise not available and then after I replaced the O-rings today it now has an issue staying on after starting up and if I am not revving it then within about 2 seconds it just idles down too low and turns the engine off.
I was thinking it might be because of that wire not giving a good connection and therefore the computer would automatically try to prevent damage to the engine.
Thinking to maybe get this and fix the issue with it as it looks like the correct replacement end and has enough wire to properly splice it together. http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...5L/SIS812.html
10-22-2015, 09:44 PM
Sputtering when cold starting and brakes tend to not engage. Vacuum tubes?
If you wish to confirm while you await the replacement part, patch it temporarily, per the earlier post, to be certain your idle and brake problems stop.
