Still struggling with heavy underpowered X type.
#41
11-16-2013, 04:22 AM
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According to recently posted information - please forgive I forget who posted, but the info was on this forum - but know the UPSTREAM (hot) O2 sensors are NOT tied to any OBDII system fault code.
This might explain why you don't register a hard code.
Knowing what the voltages should be is a good start. Driving around and trying to actually read them off of that dopey code reader is akin to texting and driving x2, and more than likely will only give you the downstream values. You know, for "Onboard Diagnostics": it will just tell you if you're running rich at the tail-end of the convertor.
This might explain why you don't register a hard code.
Knowing what the voltages should be is a good start. Driving around and trying to actually read them off of that dopey code reader is akin to texting and driving x2, and more than likely will only give you the downstream values. You know, for "Onboard Diagnostics": it will just tell you if you're running rich at the tail-end of the convertor.
#42
11-17-2013, 12:36 PM
I find the 3.0 has a good amount of power for cruising around, however, the other day with a few heavy bags of groceries I could feel the car struggling with the extra weight. I could only imagine with 3 passengers, the car probably wouldn't feel sporty at all and this is the 3 liter engine.
#43
11-17-2013, 03:50 PM
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Swap 'em all out. Fairly cheap and easy, and it may be the down-and-dirty quick-and-easy fix.
Don't use the aftermarket O2 sensors, either - go for the OEM "real" Jaguar parts. I keep hearing various "horror stories" about aftermarket sensors, most all cars. They just don't seem to be up to the same close specifications that the "real" parts need be.
The info they provide the ECU is absolutely vital for all-round performance, and they need to perform flawlessly from well below zero degrees all the way to red/orange hot temps, too.
I agree with Bruce, If you do decide they are the problem or If you decide to change them, pay a little axtra and go OEM.
There are certain parts that buying cheap aftermarket will usually mean buying twice and is therefore much more expensive......these would be one of those items IMHO
Either way I'm keeping tabs on this and hope to hear you have found a fix one way or another.
Good luck
#44
11-17-2013, 04:47 PM
With mysterious driveability problems, I usually fully insure that I am not working backwards by making sure I am starting with a mechanically sound engine. Compression/Leakdown/Vacuum tests would be my first steps. The vacuum test will even reveal a plugged catalyst which could possibly be the problem.
#45
05-02-2014, 08:59 PM
Hi there has this problem been fixed,I know its an old post, i am a new Jaguar owner and a new member of this forum, I am having exactly the same issue my car is 2.2d sport reg57, underpowered, notchy gear change, slugish, It won't throw up any fault code, so far I have changed clutch flywheel, egr valve,brake servo all brake discs and pads oil fuel air filters, I have checked it from Jaguar dealers here they have checked all fuel pump all injectors they can't find a fault with it, i had a blanking plate fitted with the old egr valve and my eml was on but with the new egr valve even with the blanking plate fitted I don't get any eml, I have cleaned both MAF and MAPT sensor but I am going to change them both next, any suggestion in sorting out this nightmare will be really appreciated I have run out of Ideas and money, the problem used to cone and go in the past, after a good long motorway run everything seems to come back to normal and after few days it used to appear after doing stop start town journeys, but now it just permanently driving slugish, One thing I have noticed is the engine is running very lean I don't get any smoke from exhaust
#46
05-04-2014, 12:36 AM
I have a 03 X type 2.5 I get 24mpg in town (city) when I drive. 21 mpg when family members drive it. Don't know what highway mileage is since the last problems fixed and haven't been out of town in forever.But this is how mileage can vary but 13 is very low especially if it's sluggish. Does the car seem OK on start and get gradually worse as far as being sluggish? If so this is a good sign of a restricted exhaust, could be the Cat (rear one) or the muffler. Thermo has suggested using a mixture of lacquer thinner with a quarter tank of gas to clean a suspect converter/muffler.
As far as the shaking on deceleration it COULD be worn or broken motor mount.Have someone you trust behind the wheel put the car in gear with the hood open,brake peddle held and shift between Drive and reverse at LOW RPM and see if the engine ROCKS excessively . Shouldn't rock at all.If it were a cracked flywheel you should hear a snapping sound. Try decelerating while rounding a sharp corner and see if it acts up, that would be a CVC joint in front.This is diagnostics that cost nothing and can bring out the worst in a problem car. Keep us posted!
As far as the shaking on deceleration it COULD be worn or broken motor mount.Have someone you trust behind the wheel put the car in gear with the hood open,brake peddle held and shift between Drive and reverse at LOW RPM and see if the engine ROCKS excessively . Shouldn't rock at all.If it were a cracked flywheel you should hear a snapping sound. Try decelerating while rounding a sharp corner and see if it acts up, that would be a CVC joint in front.This is diagnostics that cost nothing and can bring out the worst in a problem car. Keep us posted!
#47
05-05-2014, 11:25 PM
Senior Member
As far as the shuttering, maybe the front motor mount, or, the roll restrictor near the prop shaft?
You said you swapped the tranny fluid several times. Have you ever swapped the fluid in the rear differential? It's the same fluid as used in the transfer case. I've read here of the rear diff actually locking up due to no service.
Btw, would like to see a pic of your 1974 E TYPE SIII V12 CONV BRG!
You said you swapped the tranny fluid several times. Have you ever swapped the fluid in the rear differential? It's the same fluid as used in the transfer case. I've read here of the rear diff actually locking up due to no service.
Btw, would like to see a pic of your 1974 E TYPE SIII V12 CONV BRG!
#48
07-16-2014, 01:06 PM
Junior Member
poor performance
Hello guys, posted on this before;
My car feels heavy out of stops. Heavy and underpowered. I thought the brakes where sticking but now I have new calipers and hoses and still have this problem. This is not a sticky brake problem. The car will feel heavy and underpowered out of stops on heavy traffic and stop and go conditions. Sometimes it feels like it does not want to get in gear after a stop, or if I slow down to go over a speed bump. if I am going faster and have to come to a dead stop and then quickly accelerate again, the transmission gets confused, the car revs and it takes it moment to catch up. The problem seems to be fuel related as it seems to go away when the tank is full. The car also sometimes shakes when I am driving, let go of the gas and then accelerate again (although that may be the propshaft)
So far I have:
Changed fuel filter
Changed spark plugs (with correct Autolite)
IMT o rings and manifold gaskets
Cleaned the throttle
Cleaned the MAF
Changed the tranny fluid out several times
Checked the TCM for water ingress.
Mechanic has changed calipers, hoses tested e break, and bled THIS IS NOT A STICKING CALIPER SITUATION.
I don't think this is a transmission problem I am having. I think it's fuel related, although I found a post out there about a member who solved his heaviness problem with a new drum and clutches and another who replaced the valves on their transmissions and solved their heaviness problems.
I have had two different tranny shops look at her and drive her and they could not find a problem.
I have posted on this before, but I am really irritated that I still can not solve the problem. My MPG is still terrible.
Any help is greatly appreciated !
My car feels heavy out of stops. Heavy and underpowered. I thought the brakes where sticking but now I have new calipers and hoses and still have this problem. This is not a sticky brake problem. The car will feel heavy and underpowered out of stops on heavy traffic and stop and go conditions. Sometimes it feels like it does not want to get in gear after a stop, or if I slow down to go over a speed bump. if I am going faster and have to come to a dead stop and then quickly accelerate again, the transmission gets confused, the car revs and it takes it moment to catch up. The problem seems to be fuel related as it seems to go away when the tank is full. The car also sometimes shakes when I am driving, let go of the gas and then accelerate again (although that may be the propshaft)
So far I have:
Changed fuel filter
Changed spark plugs (with correct Autolite)
IMT o rings and manifold gaskets
Cleaned the throttle
Cleaned the MAF
Changed the tranny fluid out several times
Checked the TCM for water ingress.
Mechanic has changed calipers, hoses tested e break, and bled THIS IS NOT A STICKING CALIPER SITUATION.
I don't think this is a transmission problem I am having. I think it's fuel related, although I found a post out there about a member who solved his heaviness problem with a new drum and clutches and another who replaced the valves on their transmissions and solved their heaviness problems.
I have had two different tranny shops look at her and drive her and they could not find a problem.
I have posted on this before, but I am really irritated that I still can not solve the problem. My MPG is still terrible.
Any help is greatly appreciated !
#49
07-20-2014, 08:28 AM
Similar fault. I could write a book on the things I have tried. In the end the problem was caused by a 2" split in the turbo booster hose. Could not be seen but by feeling along the full length of the hose it was located top end at the back. £30 for a new one 30mins to fit. Now like a new car
#50
07-22-2014, 02:36 PM
Junior Member
It's 2" hose left of the radiator. If you look on ebay for jaguar diesel xtype booster hose you will see the one I refer to.
#52
07-23-2014, 09:17 AM
Junior Member
According to 'google' yes. I had to feel all along and around the hose sqeezing it. This way I found a split I could put 3 fingers in. Quite commom I am told. New one fitted and made a hell of a difference, now fllıyyyyyyyyys along up and down dale. Best £30 pound I have ever spent. Good luck!
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