Ok, I have been doing some searching for getting the parts to rebuild the throttle bodies for our cars. In the process, I found a place that sells something that looks promising. It is an aftermarket throttle body that sells for $100. I was a little bit surprised. Now, you would need to reuse your throttle position sensor (TPS), but that is an easy part to pull off.

I found the part at http://www.drivewire.com. If you go to the site, look up the part "throttle actuator". That should list the two parts I found. It also looks like you will have to pull a few other parts off of the old one. But, the electrical stuff (what is causing our problems) is being replaced. So, if someone is willing to take a gamble and try this part, I will do what I can to help you along. The listed part numbers are W0133-1657722 and W0133-1657721 (based on the VIN number).

 

Now, along these same lines, if someone does go out and buys a new throttlebody, can I have your old one so I can have something to dismantle and figure out the inter workings of it? I would pay for shipping. I just need you to get the part from the mechanic when he replaces it. This takes nothing more than telling the mechanic you want the old part. If someone could do this, it would be greatly appreciated. Maybe then I can figure out a cheaper fix for this than having to buy a whole unit.

 

thermo just curious, what is the problem that you would like to fix? i recently got a nice look at mine and things seemed ok. the only flaw i found was there was a very dirty oily coating with carbon deposits across the whole backside of the butterfly, and the bottom of the throttle bore about halfway up on both sides. my car had 81,000 mi when i did this and i suspected it was the first time manifold was off. i had read about the special coating that is applied to the throttle body and cleaners could damage it so i wiped it clean gently with a cotton rag, and no cleaner. seemed to work ok. got about 98%of it but looks like new. bore was still shining, butterfly not as much, but it looks goldish like brass or something...any way i suspect this is common, have you experienced this? any ideas on causes/solutions?

 

Steveis, the black coating that you are seeing is the oil vapors that are getting burnt on to the throttlebody that are coming in from the valve covers. That build up is normal.

The problem that I am attempting to fix is the dreaded "No Cruise Available" message that appears due to the computer unable to adequately control the butterfly valve. This results in the need to replace the entire throttle body assembly. If you go through Jag, that is a $1600 part. Even if you go else where and get a deal on it, you are still spending $800. I am hoping to figure out what is failing inside the assembly and then be able to open up things and be able to repair it using over the counter parts that are easy to obtain for much less money. Granted, it is more work on our part to get the throttle body back to 100%, but if I can do this, I think a lot of people would be very interested in it. So, if you know someone with a bad throttle body assembly just sitting around, let me know.

 

Chris,

Great find! The throttle actuators you found look very compelling. Of course, the photos shown look nothing like the Jag part, but thats no big surprise. Maybe drivewire can provide more info..... like a cell phone picture.

I'm sure you've seen this on EBAY :

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jagua...Q5fAccessories

I thinking if these guys are able to rebuilt the Jag TB for $300 including shipping both ways, the fix can't be that difficult. I'm wondering if slapping on a new actuator for $100 is what they do. If so, then the $300 priced tag makes sense.

I appreciate your enthusiasm and effort digging into this issue. There has to be a better solution than buying a new TB.

On a different topic, any luck in scoring a dead fan control module?

Or how about a suggestion for the next project...a fix for the howling prop shaft bearing!

Mark

 

MarkC, no luck on a dead fan control module. Still looking for one of those too. So, if you know someone with one...... I'll gladly pay for the shipping. I have fun digging into projects like this. makes for some interesting learning. Granted, it is also with the hope that what I learn will benefit the rest of the members too. On another site (VirtualFord.org), I am doing a big thing right now on wiring stuff. I am currently starting with how you do wiring and how alternator/batteries work. But, as time goes on, I will be branching out to other topics that are a bit more techish. But ,I want to give people the general knowledge of how to work around electricity. Without that, doing the harder jobs will be next to impossible. if you are interested in them, look in the electrical section under "Thermo Knows".

 

Thermo, is it a possiblity that a change in the fuel air mixture could be causing the TB not to react to the curise sensor. Now I've been a mechanic for close to 45 years, and I haven't had any trouble with the one on my 02 x-type. Plus I this is my first Jaguar and I have no idea what's hooked up to the TB. But if the mixture isn't right and if there's a sensor that reads the mixture. But just and idea that I thought I'd threw to ya. I can't see the butterfly causing your problem, unless there's a lot of wear to it. But I went from cars and trucks to heavy equipement, propane & electric.
Vince

 

Vince, there is no "sensor" on the throttlebody that measures the cruise control. You have 2 electrical components on the throttle body. You have a throttle position sensor (TPS, tells the computer how open the throttle is and with using the manifold pressure sensor, it can calculate the amount of air the engine is pulling in so it can inject the appropriate amount of fuel into each cylinder) and then you have the electric motor that electrically opens the butterfly valve. This electric motor is what takes out the cruise control as the computer deems the motor "broken" when you get the fault code and therefore leaves the driving controls to a human. The motor knows where it needs to go to based on a sensor hooked up to the gas pedal. The electric motor uses the position signal from the TPS and the gas pedal to match the two indications. If it senses a difference, it changes the voltage supplied to the electric motor to cause the throttle body to be repositioned. In the case of cruise control, the gas pedal signal is supplimented by the vehicle speed, which then adjusts the original gas pedal position as necessary to maintain the vehicle speed.

 

no cruise available can come up due to a vacuum leak; imt valve o rings, pcv, brake booster etc. Just letting you know