When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Thanks to Thermo et al. for cluing me into the transfer case. Drained only 200 ml out of mine. Magnet had a lot of gunk on it. Used a 3/8” O.D. to 1/2” MIP push-to-connect adapter fitting & a syringe-type dispenser with a 3/8” output hose. Once 400 cc was pumped in, removed the 3/8” syringe hose from the fitting. Played Dutch boy while unscrewing adapter. Then quickly popped the magnetic plug in. Lost maybe 25 ml of gear oil. Let another 25 ml drain & screwed in the plug. Bought a brass 1/2” MIP RV water heater drain valve for $10, but figured the plug magnet needed to go back.
The differential plug in mine was rusted to the point I couldn’t get a 3/8” ratchet inserted. What to do? Recently pulled the fuel tank, knew only 3 bolts hold the differential. If you have a motorcycle jack & have the car up on jack stands, takes maybe 20 minutes. Differential is lowered a few inches to access the drain plug. Kick myself for not doing it before reinstalling the fuel tank.
Hindsight: realize it would of been a lot easier had I lowered the front of the fuel tank a few inches & simply used an 8” hole saw to make access ports to the fuel pump & sending unit assys. Making sardine can openings as seen on YouTube videos was like fingernails on a black board to me.
With the tank out, installed 2 fuel pumps because there was no <expletive deleted> way I was ever gonna pull the fuel tank again & really didn’t want to make any holes. Repurposed used parts from junkyards. Would have worked except I’d of needed to install a fuel saddle tank valve. Exceeded my self-imposed $100 budget cap. Unless you have an engineering background- don’t try this. For me, being retired, was a fun challenge (still under my budget cap & no holes).
Used POR-15 49013 patch to seal the cut out pieces back in place. Great stuff. Hole idea came to mind after a visit to a junkyard & checking out an S-Type. S-Types have two ~8” rubber plugs under the rear seat over the units. Difference between the X & S-Types is the S-Type has a flat body under the rear seat; X-Type doesn’t. Photo is distorted. Cut-outs are round. This is the underside view. Other side is black. Made a paper template. Cutting the front part was a little difficult as there’s 2 layers of steel.
. Mr. 8” hole saw doesn’t care. Only needs a place for the mandrel bit. Once I had the 1/4” hole for the bit, removed the bit & with a short pice of 1/4” rod. Used POR-15 to coat any shiny metal.
Turns out the hole idea paid off. Why? After replacing the tank & all was well, lost fuel pressure. Hmmm, except this time, could hear the pump running (after applying 12 volts direct). WTH (heck)? Pulled the covers & the sending unit. One of the quick connect/faster disconnect hoses popped on the fuel pick up on the sending unit side of the tank. As a result, fuel was circulating inside the tank & not getting past the 2-way check valve. Be sure you hear a click when connecting fuel disconnects. The fuel pump system is actually simple & brilliant, using one pipe for supply & return along with PWM (pulse width modulation) for controlling pressure. Curse you Ford!
Last shot before reinstalling tank. Was gonna use this, but push-to-connect adapter was easier IMHO. Kinda worked. Took too long to fill because the o-ring seal isn’t that good. Probably suited best for turkey basting. This sucker is short & easily holds the end of the dispenser hose & if you’re quick, you can remove it & replace the plug.
Last edited by Backhertz; 11-28-2020 at 07:58 AM.
Reason: typo