Transfer case oil change write-up now hosted
#101
#102
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks all for your great suggestions. Ultimately I elected to drive the X until the transfer case was hot. Lifted passenger side 21". Drained and got out about 250ml of pretty clean amber fluid? Bought a suction gun from harbor freight ($12US). Used a brass barbed reducer to hook up some silicone aquarium hose to the suction gun vinyl hose. Cut a 12" length of malleable wire and placed inside the hose so it would stiffen it. The hose can now bent to go deep inside transfer case box toward rear. Pulled out another 250ml of fluid. Jacked up driver side 20" and pumped in about 500ml of Valvoline synthetic 75/140 lube ($8/qt). Figure I got almost all the oil. Done.
While I was at it I fabbed an air scoop out of galvanized sheet metal as mine was missing. Should last longer than the plastic one. Pretty much directs air straight up behind oil pan. Is this correct? I don't have a stock unit to compare. Next project is oil pan gasket. Saving for a weekend.
While I was at it I fabbed an air scoop out of galvanized sheet metal as mine was missing. Should last longer than the plastic one. Pretty much directs air straight up behind oil pan. Is this correct? I don't have a stock unit to compare. Next project is oil pan gasket. Saving for a weekend.
#104
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It was 'normal' because being a 2005 MY with no viscous coupling in the transfer box, all three differentials - front, rear and transfer box, are 'open'. With your test conditions, it would not have been unusual for only one wheel to have turned. If you'd applied the handbrake, the rear wheels would both have stopped and one or two (depending on exact internal friction conditions) front wheels would have turned.
The lights came on because the ABS system detected a significant speed difference between the four wheels, but could do nothing about it!
The lights came on because the ABS system detected a significant speed difference between the four wheels, but could do nothing about it!
Last edited by astromorg; 08-11-2016 at 02:10 PM.
#105
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Everyone thank Bojangles for this great write-up.
I'm hosting it as of now, use Powerpoint to open it.
Transfer case oil change
I'm hosting it as of now, use Powerpoint to open it.
Transfer case oil change
I cannot seem to open the link. Can you check it out post it again? Iam planning to do this as well and need more info.
Thanks!
#106
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks all for your great suggestions. Ultimately I elected to drive the X until the transfer case was hot. Lifted passenger side 21". Drained and got out about 250ml of pretty clean amber fluid? Bought a suction gun from harbor freight ($12US). Used a brass barbed reducer to hook up some silicone aquarium hose to the suction gun vinyl hose. Cut a 12" length of malleable wire and placed inside the hose so it would stiffen it. The hose can now bent to go deep inside transfer case box toward rear. Pulled out another 250ml of fluid. Jacked up driver side 20" and pumped in about 500ml of Valvoline synthetic 75/140 lube ($8/qt). Figure I got almost all the oil. Done.
While I was at it I fabbed an air scoop out of galvanized sheet metal as mine was missing. Should last longer than the plastic one. Pretty much directs air straight up behind oil pan. Is this correct? I don't have a stock unit to compare. Next project is oil pan gasket. Saving for a weekend.
While I was at it I fabbed an air scoop out of galvanized sheet metal as mine was missing. Should last longer than the plastic one. Pretty much directs air straight up behind oil pan. Is this correct? I don't have a stock unit to compare. Next project is oil pan gasket. Saving for a weekend.
Blackjagx2005,
What did you use to take off the plug? Thanks!
#108
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
For those debating whether to do this or not, I just did it for the 2nd time.
First time @ 108k miles, there was NO fluid to be drained from the case. Just some shoe polish on the magnetic plug. I did several drain & refills, just to make sure there was some in there and to clean out the grime, which was apparently all that was left from the original "lifetime" oil.
2nd time at 148k miles, the fluid was pretty dark brown and stanky, but at least there was some in there. I used royal purple, and it lost the purple quickly. Drained 270 ml but could only get 300ml back in before it would pour back out. Maybe I am doing something wrong with the tipping of the car, idk.
In future I am going to do this every 25k miles I think. Should keep the oil looking fresher. It isn't too bad a job, except for putting fluid back in (just with a syringe and tube for me, no special valve). Pumping fluid back in gets messy but it's not hard. Bring a rag or three.
First time @ 108k miles, there was NO fluid to be drained from the case. Just some shoe polish on the magnetic plug. I did several drain & refills, just to make sure there was some in there and to clean out the grime, which was apparently all that was left from the original "lifetime" oil.
2nd time at 148k miles, the fluid was pretty dark brown and stanky, but at least there was some in there. I used royal purple, and it lost the purple quickly. Drained 270 ml but could only get 300ml back in before it would pour back out. Maybe I am doing something wrong with the tipping of the car, idk.
In future I am going to do this every 25k miles I think. Should keep the oil looking fresher. It isn't too bad a job, except for putting fluid back in (just with a syringe and tube for me, no special valve). Pumping fluid back in gets messy but it's not hard. Bring a rag or three.
#109
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi Guys - I started to look at the job of changing the Transfer Case oil and I have a question on the tool used to remove the oil drain plug. I thought I had read that the plug could be removed with a 3/8 universal joint socket (just the square part that usually goes into the back of a socket) but that does not fit. Is the correct tool just a common pluming tool that is available at home depot?
#111
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
OK, did this 3rd time at 170k miles.
Jacked car up to 24" at the sill - still scary that high in the air.
Drained out only about 250ml. Eek. But it was not as stanky or dark or burnt as last time, so that's good.
To fill, used a proper hand pump, which this time I got to work quite well. The hose was basically same size as the hole. Pumped 700ml, prob spilled about 100ml. So I think I maybe finally got the correct amount of oil in there!
Probably last time I do this - by the time I put another 20-30k miles on it (will take 3-4 years), I will probably trade/sell it.
Jacked car up to 24" at the sill - still scary that high in the air.
Drained out only about 250ml. Eek. But it was not as stanky or dark or burnt as last time, so that's good.
To fill, used a proper hand pump, which this time I got to work quite well. The hose was basically same size as the hole. Pumped 700ml, prob spilled about 100ml. So I think I maybe finally got the correct amount of oil in there!
Probably last time I do this - by the time I put another 20-30k miles on it (will take 3-4 years), I will probably trade/sell it.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)