Transfer case replaced, now wont go into gear
#1
Transfer case replaced, now wont go into gear
I have a 2004 X-type, 3.0 automatic.
I just had the transfer case replaced, and decided to pick up another vehicle to give the Jag a rest and only drive it occasionally.
So after about 3 or 4 weeks of it being parked, I took it out. It drove perfect, but then as I pulled into a parking lot the transmission seemed to have gone out. It won't go into any gear and when I go back into PARK it makes a grinding noise and then stops.
I had it towed back home where it sat for about 3 or 4 more weeks. I got in it one day, put it in drive, and it went into gear and drove perfectly as if nothing ever happened. So I continued to drive it for about a week and it was perfect. Now it is having the same problem again. It won't "catch" in any gear, and when I go back to park, it makes a bad grinding noise.
Is it possible something was damaged when the transfer case got replaced?
Thanks guys.
I just had the transfer case replaced, and decided to pick up another vehicle to give the Jag a rest and only drive it occasionally.
So after about 3 or 4 weeks of it being parked, I took it out. It drove perfect, but then as I pulled into a parking lot the transmission seemed to have gone out. It won't go into any gear and when I go back into PARK it makes a grinding noise and then stops.
I had it towed back home where it sat for about 3 or 4 more weeks. I got in it one day, put it in drive, and it went into gear and drove perfectly as if nothing ever happened. So I continued to drive it for about a week and it was perfect. Now it is having the same problem again. It won't "catch" in any gear, and when I go back to park, it makes a bad grinding noise.
Is it possible something was damaged when the transfer case got replaced?
Thanks guys.
#2
It seems to me that they may have messed with your transmission gear selection wire. Try putting the xtype in 1st gear on the jgate shifter and see if that ever gives you problems. If that doesn't, then they messed something up when they took off your gear selection wire. It sounds to me like it's a problem within the selection of the gears and not actually any of the mechanics because you are able to drive it perfectly sometimes and not at all other times. Another thing could be that they damaged the seal between your transfercase and transmission and as a result you have low fluid in your transmission. I don't know why that would cause grinding in park however. Another way to check if the correct gear selector is if you are able to start the car in neutral instead of park. I hope what I am saying is making some sort of sense. Also, you may want to start a little check list of what is happening when it works and when it doesn't "weather" "how long it's been sitting" "How far it was driven last trip" "did you start it in neutral or park" "the angle of the car when started" and other things like that. I know it sounds stupid right now, but sometimes writing out EXACTLY what is happening can help you start to notice trends and track down the problem.
#3
My car did the exact same thing yesterday. It's a 2.5 2003 X-Type automatic. I backed out of my parking space and drove over to pull out onto the road and nothing. Reverse wouldn't do anything either. Put it in park and grinding like crazy. I had some help pushing in back into the parking lot in neutral and it made 2 really loud metal busting sounds. I had to put the parking brake on because it was coasting downhill when I put it in park. It has 95,000 miles and I bought it with 87,500. I'm not hard on it and it showed no signs like this before. Anyway I got it towed to a transmission shop where they're going to look at it. I hope the transmission didn't drop and it's a cheap fix. I don't make much money. : ( I'll let you know what they say.
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jagryan85 (09-01-2012)
#4
#6
#7
portrub, the transfer case sends power to all four wheels. If you don't fill the transfer case with enough fluid, it will die exactly like it did on you. What you should do is look for a used transfer case from car-part.com or from ebay to put in. These cases are notorious for failing prematurely because they don't have enough fluid in them. I am very sorry to hear about your issue.
sources: 02 03 JAGUAR X TYPE TRANSFER CASE | eBay
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sources: 02 03 JAGUAR X TYPE TRANSFER CASE | eBay
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#8
>sources: 02 03 JAGUAR X TYPE TRANSFER CASE | eBay
Nope, those won't work. He needs one from '04-'08 since they made a pretty major design change for those years.
Look for other threads that have discussed the differences, but long story short: early t-cases were "fluid-coupled" designs but the cases were weak and fractured from stress; later ones are "open" design but are physically stronger.
Since his is a '04 does anyone on this list know if there might be a problem with early '04s having the early t-case? Does he need to confirm things one way or another before starting to search for a replacement?
================================================
Jaguar: Grace, Pace, and Space - Sir William Lyons
Nope, those won't work. He needs one from '04-'08 since they made a pretty major design change for those years.
Look for other threads that have discussed the differences, but long story short: early t-cases were "fluid-coupled" designs but the cases were weak and fractured from stress; later ones are "open" design but are physically stronger.
Since his is a '04 does anyone on this list know if there might be a problem with early '04s having the early t-case? Does he need to confirm things one way or another before starting to search for a replacement?
================================================
Jaguar: Grace, Pace, and Space - Sir William Lyons
#9
Since his is a '04 does anyone on this list know if there might be a problem with early '04s having the early t-case? Does he need to confirm things one way or another before starting to search for a replacement?
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I think he was referring to mine because I need one and my car's a 2003.
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I think he was referring to mine because I need one and my car's a 2003.
#10
What he can do to confirm that he has an early case is by having the shop verify if the transfer case has a vent on top of it or not. 02-03 cases used a viscous coupling for torque transfer which produced more heat and therefore needed a vent to keep the case cool. the 04+ cases no longer use the viscous coupling which is why some people have decided that the 04 cases are stronger. What I would recommend is if you are looking for a budget case, get the 02-03 like I have listed. Both cases will fit in your car as they are the same externally, they are just different internally. I prefer the earlier case which some call the weaker case, because it is the only case that actually give you true awd. With the 04+ case you are essentially driving a RWD car unless you use the handbrake.
The important thing is that all xtype transfer cases will fit into any xtype and the only difference is internally and it has to do with your preference. If you want awd, go early case, if you like RWD, go later.
The important thing is that all xtype transfer cases will fit into any xtype and the only difference is internally and it has to do with your preference. If you want awd, go early case, if you like RWD, go later.
#11
#12
#13
The transfer box is a much misunderstood piece of machinery! Both early and late versions do give true AWD, 61% torque to the rear, 39% to the front. All the viscous coupling does is turn the transfer box into a limited slip differential as opposed to the open diff it is for later models (Post 2004MY, VIN D56272).
With the viscous coupling version, loss of traction by either a front or rear wheel will result in the centre diff, ie the transfer box, locking up to provide equal drive to both front and rear, ie the slipping wheel will continue to do so, but the two wheels at the other end will continue to receive torque. With the later, open diff version, loss of any wheel traction stops the other three! If it's a rear wheel slipping, then the handbrake can be used to stop the rear wheels and transfer all torque to the front.
Front and rear diffs are both open, so for all cars, loss of traction to one front and one rear wheel at the same time is terminal to progress!! In cars that have DSC, then within the limits of that system, drive may be maintained by braking the slipping wheel automatically.
With the viscous coupling version, loss of traction by either a front or rear wheel will result in the centre diff, ie the transfer box, locking up to provide equal drive to both front and rear, ie the slipping wheel will continue to do so, but the two wheels at the other end will continue to receive torque. With the later, open diff version, loss of any wheel traction stops the other three! If it's a rear wheel slipping, then the handbrake can be used to stop the rear wheels and transfer all torque to the front.
Front and rear diffs are both open, so for all cars, loss of traction to one front and one rear wheel at the same time is terminal to progress!! In cars that have DSC, then within the limits of that system, drive may be maintained by braking the slipping wheel automatically.
Last edited by astromorg; 09-02-2012 at 06:54 AM.
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bobsol (09-27-2012)
#16
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I have to admit to being one of the folks who never quite "got my head around" how a differential works, and an such understanding is basic to how the rest of the stuff works (AWD, the TC case, etc).
link is old old old, but after the little show (kinda cool) the education begins. Even the techiest of the forum readers will like this - if for no other reason than to use it to explain to others how it's done, how it works.
The relevant stuff starts out with ONE WHEEL DRIVE. God Bless the Ford family that built our X-Types! (Although the film is by Chevy)
The relevant stuff starts out with ONE WHEEL DRIVE. God Bless the Ford family that built our X-Types! (Although the film is by Chevy)
Last edited by Bruce in North Dakota; 08-19-2012 at 01:16 PM.
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#20
My car did the exact same thing yesterday. It's a 2.5 2003 X-Type automatic. I backed out of my parking space and drove over to pull out onto the road and nothing. Reverse wouldn't do anything either. Put it in park and grinding like crazy. I had some help pushing in back into the parking lot in neutral and it made 2 really loud metal busting sounds. I had to put the parking brake on because it was coasting downhill when I put it in park. It has 95,000 miles and I bought it with 87,500. I'm not hard on it and it showed no signs like this before. Anyway I got it towed to a transmission shop where they're going to look at it. I hope the transmission didn't drop and it's a cheap fix. I don't make much money. : ( I'll let you know what they say.
Thanks.
-Ray