My understanding is still not right because our 2006 will spin only one tire. It does not have DSC. I dove it home in heavy snow/slush a couple weeks ago and it was the nastiest trip in a car ever. The back kept trying to pass the front.

 

[QUOTE=Jesse Lackman;837655]The X-Type AWD Description fools you into thinking the front driveshafts might be driven by the transfer case but that isn't right. QUOTE]

Jesse, the Jaguar document is not 'fooling' you, I'm afraid you've misinterpreted the information! For instance, if you look at the power flow diagram, note that the Differential Ring Gear and then the Differential Outer Case drive the Planet Carrier Input Flange. The power flow, on the front wheel side of the diagram then goes through to the transaxle differential cage that, as you rightly say, drives the link shaft to the righthand wheel and the lefthand front axle. The subtle point to note is that the Differential Ring gear does NOT drive the front differential directly - it does so via the planet gears and outer annulus of the transfer box. The front differential is effectively 'floating' in the differential outer case, not being turned by the spider assembly directly.

The purpose of the viscous coupling is to make the transfer box a limited slip differential, ie in the event of a difference in speed between the front and rear outputs, it locks the two outputs - the sun gear and the annulus. In your post viscous coupling X Type, your transfer box is an open differential, as are the front and rear diffs. That means loss of traction on any one wheel will allow it to spin and all others to stop. If it's a rear wheel spinning, then careful use of the handbrake can help, but a front wheel spinning is terminal to forward motion!

I hope that helps clarify how the system works in practise.

 

How to flush and check fluid level Auto Trans - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

Transfer case oil change write-up now hosted - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

Diff oil change.. done... - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

Skyjump

Take a look at these links they will help you with your fluid change.

also I use royal purple in auto trans, and royal purple in the transfer case and rear end.

follow the instructions

 

[QUOTE=astromorg;838355]I understand what the power flow diagram is saying, I'm trying to figure out how the power flows though the actual parts. If the right front axle and "sun gear shaft" both go back into the transmission final drive there needs to be two internal seals to keep trans fluid and TC fluid from mixing. Are there?

If the power flow is as the power flow diagram says the front differential carrier and front spider set cannot be mechanically connected. Not even the pin that holds the spider idler gears in place. Usually that pin goes right through the spider gear carrier and is mechanically secured to the carrier.

 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...96/#post633188

There's a picture of a TC apart on that thread.

 

[QUOTE=Jesse Lackman;839034]Actually, three seals are needed and are there - shown in black on the sectional diagram. one between the planet carrier and the casing, one between the planet carrier and the sun gear and one between the sun gear and the link shaft (the one that can be damaged by removing the link shaft)

The torque is transmitted from the final drive gear via the cone shaped drive sleeve into the transfer box. The transfer
box then splits the torque. An intermediate driveshaft tube couples the sun gear to the differential housing, transmitting the front wheel drive torque. Torque is then transmitted from the differential housing via the crosspin to the differential pinions, which in turn drive the differential side gears; these in turn drive the driveshafts.

 

"The torque is transmitted from the final drive gear via the cone shaped drive sleeve into the transfer box. The transfer
box then splits the torque. An intermediate driveshaft tube couples the sun gear to the differential housing, transmitting the front wheel drive torque. Torque is then transmitted from the differential housing via the crosspin to the differential pinions, which in turn drive the differential side gears; these in turn drive the driveshafts."

Then the front differential housing can't be one piece. The part the big transmission final drive ring gear is fastened to has to be separate from the part holding the crosspin.

I had a 1977 Dodge pickup that was full time four wheel drive with no front lockout hubs. The transfer case shift lever had four positions: low, low lock, high, high lock. In the low and high positions the transfer case differential was open - just like the 2004+ X. It could spin only one wheel. In the lock positions the transfer case differential was locked meaning at least one wheel would spin on each axle. The power flow is easy to understand on that Dodge, engine -> transmission-> transfer case -> rear and front ends. The front differential ring gear was not in the transmission. That is what makes the power flow hard to understand on the X: the front wheels differential ring gear/differential is in the transmission. The transmission output drives the front differential ring gear but somehow not the front differential which is inside the front differential ring gear housing! I don't see how when I look at page 476 section F on the transmission .pdf I linked. Looking at that diagram, how can the front differential ring gear housing have power but not drive the spider gear crosspin that is inside it?

Maybe the transmission output for the X is different than for a JF506E with front wheel drive.

Here's a picture of the output on a X JF506E, it implies power out and power back in with the two splined shafts;

 

You're nearly there Jesse!
The two splined outputs in your photo look just the same as from the Jaguar boxes - for Jaguar's, the outer splined tube is the end of the coned shape drive sleeve from the final drive ring gear. It drives the planet gears in the transfer box.
The inner splined tube receives the 40% drive from the sun gear and is connected to the front diff that is supported on two taper roller bearings inside the ring gear.
The drive to the righthand front wheel is via the link shaft that runs from the front diff, through the inner splined tube and through the sun gear.

 

I'd really like to see that transmission final drive assembly apart.

So this begs the question why did Jag get rid of the viscous coupling? Especially if the car didn't get DSC?

 

This is the Castrol fluid. Even says recommended for BMW - LT71141 use.

 

Not sure why image doesn't show in post (too large?) but if opened in a new tab it should come up.

 

Ok here is wheree the transmission fill hole is
https://youtu.be/899Xw3Cs3zQ

 

I had read this thread and found it most useful and I found a local transmission shop that was willing to look at my transmission, and he found a VW label product that he thought was a reliable substitute at 1/3 the Jaguar price. He drained the approx 3 liters and refilled it twice and the fluid was visibly cleaner, from light brown to mostly red.
There are 172k miles on my car and we guessed this is the first ATF change.
It is running fine.
I was distracted at first, I think the Adaptive Transmission Shifting was a problem, creating a shudder accelerating in 5th, but that seems to have cleared itself up, even before the fluid change.
I found the best explanation of Adaptive Transmissions at
Patent US7653469 - Automatic transmission shift point control system and method of use - Google Patents

Thanks, this forum is much more active than the Jag-Lovers X Type forum. I was on their Saloons forum with a 1966 model for the last 13 years.

P. Smith

 

I've been thinking about changing the transmission fluid in my 2006 x-type for a while and I've been reading the posts. I want to run this past you folks to see if this s possible because I'm not sure about the pressure and heat that may be involved. Let me know if you think this will work.
1. Take 2 five gallon water jugs with lids.
2. Drill two holes in each lid and put in bulkhead fittings for polyflo.
3. On each lid put polyflo on the inside of the lid so that it will reach the bottom of the jug.
4. For each one of the bulkhead fittings with poly flo attached connect another piece of polyflo with a fitting on the other end - one fitting is to connect to the cooling hose and the other is to connect to the return to the transmission.
5. The other two bulkhead fittings get polyflo from the outside of the lids to connect the two jugs together
6. The jug connected to the cooling hose remains empty while the other jug is filled with 10 quarts of transmission fluid.
7. Make sure everything is well sealed. This is very important.
8. Run the car while observing closely. As old fluid runs into the empty jug, air pressure should force the new fluid back into the transmission.
Thoughts?

 

Seems complicated. What could possibly go wrong. Like, is there sufficient pressure of the old fluid coming out to overcome all possible leaks and to push new fluid up into the transmission?
First question - why do you want to change the fluid at all? It is "lifetime" fluid, a closed system, do you have some reason to want to change the fluid?
2nd - Why not use the procedure in the service manual?
3rd - When old fluid is coming out and new fluid is going in, you are probably going to be mixing the new with the old inside the trans, so that increasing portions of new, expensive, fluid will be coming out while you pump new fluid in, it your system works at all.

I was having some idiopathic issue with my trans when I bought the car at 175,000 miles, so I got a partial fluid change using the service manual's procedure. The old fluid looked fine and the issue was not resolved.

Your proposal looks a lot more complicated than the factory procedure.

Good luck,
P. Smith
Carson City, NV

 

The "lifetime" fluid is not really true. Yes Jaguar says that but read enough posts here and you'll see it's not true in long term practice. Here is my thread on changing the fluid with pictures, descriptions, correct fluid to be used, discussion of the definitive drain, level check plug vs reverse band plug that messes up your transmission if wrong one removed.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...w-pics-183620/

 

Remove battery box. Look down between battery box area and water pump. Remove rubber nipple. Take long skinny neck funnel and add whatever comes out. If fluid is dark then change it slowly meaning drain and fill. Although getting an accurate measurement is hard without a dipstick. But if youre not having problems i say just replace what drains.

 

Very well explained and not very different to servicing a Mercedes 722.transmission,

 

Don't trust sealed for life. I was hesitant with this procedure, knowing the ATF assist with friction. I conducted a fluid change the safe way by draining 3.5 qt flush at a time. The fluid was dark brown and smelled. On the first flush only 2.5qt drained out, which tells me it was a qt low. Again sealed for life and for sure death. There was also a whining sound prior to the change. I added 3.5qt and started the engine, running it through all the gears. PRND234. I completed a second flush, this time using a measuring cup and emptied 11.5 to 12 cups. The fluid was a little cleaner. Again I added 3.5qt, which is 14 cups. I drove the car with a world of difference. No more whining sound. Automatic shifting was great in all gears .

This was done in a 2004 X type 3.0 base model. I used Castrol import muti vehicle. I will complete another two flushes at my next oil change.