Trouble swapping out front shocks
#1
Trouble swapping out front shocks
So I bought a pair shocks and I've swapped them out before on Hondas and a few cavaliers so I naturally thought I would be able to tackle this job...but I noticed once i took the bottom bolt and the 3 top ones removed the drop link from the shock to the sway bar and lines that there wasn't enough play to slip the shock out of the brace. So I thought I'd remove this other link but it didn't help only I damaged the bushing I bought 2 new drop links but I don't know what the part is, it connects lower down...can someone tell me? And any advice how to finish
#3
Shocks or struts?
front STRUTS =
https://youtu.be/BeZ1flDFJZ0
rear SHOCKS =
https://youtu.be/STum4frYvB4
front STRUTS =
https://youtu.be/BeZ1flDFJZ0
rear SHOCKS =
https://youtu.be/STum4frYvB4
#5
The following users liked this post:
Sleek N Subtle (03-25-2019)
#6
#7
What went wrong?
After watching the video Dell posted; The only "dicey" things are: having a good coil spring compressor, and the drive-axle to hub nut be a real head-ache (if not sometimes impossible) to loosen without a good impact gun.
Only one-side is screwed up right?
After watching the video Dell posted; The only "dicey" things are: having a good coil spring compressor, and the drive-axle to hub nut be a real head-ache (if not sometimes impossible) to loosen without a good impact gun.
Only one-side is screwed up right?
Last edited by BlownKitty; 03-25-2019 at 07:22 PM.
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#9
Hey Dennis what exactly did you purchase a shock absorber and I know the H&R springs aren’t recommended with the Bilstein B4 but What bellow did you get and mount. Did you just tap with a hammer on the hub and get the shock out or did you go another route.
#10
all my parts were ordered from rock auto extremely cheap for oem parts
i followed the video ,it was fairly easy 1 hour per side....i did spray pb blaster around the hub and stuck a screw driver in the gap ,then 2 taps with a hammer it was off
in the pic thats how far you have to compress the spring
if you can change a tire ,you can do this
i followed the video ,it was fairly easy 1 hour per side....i did spray pb blaster around the hub and stuck a screw driver in the gap ,then 2 taps with a hammer it was off
in the pic thats how far you have to compress the spring
if you can change a tire ,you can do this
Last edited by dennis black; 03-26-2019 at 09:20 PM.
#11
all my parts were ordered from rock auto extremely cheap for oem parts
i followed the video ,it was fairly easy 1 hour per side....i did spray pb blaster around the hub and stuck a screw driver in the gap ,then 2 taps with a hammer it was off
in the pic thats how far you have to compress the spring
if you can change a tire ,you can do this
i followed the video ,it was fairly easy 1 hour per side....i did spray pb blaster around the hub and stuck a screw driver in the gap ,then 2 taps with a hammer it was off
in the pic thats how far you have to compress the spring
if you can change a tire ,you can do this
#12
AutoZone has this loaner tool ($ shown is your deposit, refunded or not charged upon return at store's descression).
https://www.autozone.com/videos/v/64...018/185513035/
https://m.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/...ing+compressor
https://www.autozone.com/videos/v/64...018/185513035/
https://m.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/...ing+compressor
Last edited by Dell Gailey; 03-27-2019 at 01:01 PM.
#13
Adding on to Dell's post; Autozone also has this variation available for loan which I've had pretty good success with on other makes/models with MacPherson struts. My local Autozone 's tool loan program requires you to pay for the tool, then refunds it back when you return it. AZ's saved me $100's not having to buy a tool that I will rarely use or need again. Here in San Diego this one is $55.00.
#15
#16
#17
i tried going at the rotar too but it was seized to it with rust i presume.
just remove the knuckle pinch bolt so you dont have to go near the wheel hub , half shaft, rotar , all of that area.
ill try upload some picture of the manual for you