So I've been putting off fixing my Xtype for months now, one day my wife came home with the car, I go to move it into the garage and the car won't start...

Sent me down a rabbit hole of troubleshooting... I spent hours looking at fuses, making sure relays all click and make connections using my voltmeter.

I then checked the fuel inertia cut-off switch (I really didn't "check it" with the voltmeter etc I just pressed it back in, it didn't click or anything but I'm kind of wondering if there is an issue there.....

When I turn the ignition over, FUSE 17 (supposedly the fuel transfer pump fuse) should I see a connection? I get a open loop when using the voltmeter and cranking the engine which should be a closed loop if there is electricity flowing through that fuse.

Car starts no problem using ignition fluid it roars to life for a few seconds. telling me it isn't an ignition issue, definitely fuel.

Before I start taking the drive axle and exhaust system drain the tank and drop the tank (why did Jaguar NOT make an access hatch for a component that is known to go out frequently I have NO IDEA... cost cutting measure??? What can I do to troubleshoot why FUSE #17 is not getting connected while cranking?

Another issue this might be a separate thread the jack points on this car seem to be really "weak" IDK about these unibody cars, but they are very pretty adamant in the repair guide not to use control arms, differential, yet I tend to disagree I think under the control arm where the shock strut comes down would be the BEST place to jack? what is everyone's thoughts on that??? This is the point I think almost every garage would lift it by ?


~Jeff

 

Hi Jeff,

Yours being a 2002 model, F17 I believe is a 20A fuse that is feeding the RH headlight dip beam....not what you are looking for for a no start, fuel type problem.

For a 2002, the fuse you perhaps want to check is:-
F81, 20 Amp (central junction fuse box) - supplies power to the fuel pump control module.

If that fuse is still intact, then with power off, lift out the rear seat base and you will see the loom and plug that goes through the big grommet to your fuel tank. The two wires (Red and Yellow) are the ones that drive the fuel pump motor.
If you are measuring things......undo the connector and measure the pump side of that connector (should be pins 7 & 8) on a resistance setting of your meter to see if you have a low resistance (for that motor you will probably get a reading somewhere in around 5 ohms).
What you might have there is a fuel pump motor with worn internal brushes that are so short now that they are occasionally not making good contact with the commutator of the pump armature.
If that is physically what is happening, then the resistance measurement across pins 7 & 8 will be far higher.

If the motor resistance is good, and F81 is also good; then you might need to check that the fuel pump control module is getting its 12 volt supply all the way through to pin 9 (Brown wire with Green stripe).
Fuel pump control module is also under rear seat cushion (drivers side for LHD cars).
If you have 12 volts there and a good pump motor, then either you are missing the fuel pump drive signal from the ECM to pump controller which is delivered to pin 1 of the pump control module (brown wire). This signal is not a simple on/off command, but a rapid pulse signal that is variable depending on fuel line pressure feedback to ECM that sends the signal to the pump controller.

Hope this helps you do some more diagnosis before you start delving into the tank itself.

 

Thanks for that information! I didn't realize I could get access to that plug lifting the seat.

Sorry not sure where I put 2002 in there, it is actually a 2004 I thought that too when I originally was looking at the fuses... From 2004 and up I think the F17 fuse is the fuel pump.

Actually I got a reading on it, I had to push the voltmeter prongs a little harder to get it to read. When I turn the ignition on it does make the connection at the fuse. Which means the computer isn't an issue it is telling the pump to turn on.

I'm going to lift the rear seat out now and see if it gets a reading there and electricity is going to the pump. Also with the seat out I should be able to hear if the thing is making noise...

This is the site

https://knigaproavto.ru/shemy/en/jag...x-diagram.html

I got my info from and it crosses correctly with the manual I have

F17 20 Fuel pump driver module and relay

Jeff

 

jagxtrype76, I know this is going to sound silly, but put a jack under the right rear of the car to give yourself a little bit of a swing. Now, if you look at the bottom of the gas tank, you will see a half moon recess in the gas tank. Make a fist, hit the center of that half moon with a good thump. Now, attempt to start the car. If it starts, then it pretty much confirms a bad fuel pump. If the car does not start, then what I ask you to do is start with the car off and turn the key to the RUN position with everything off in the car. You are seeing if you can hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds to build up pressure. If you can hear the fuel pump run, then after 3 seconds or so of the pump running, attempt to start the car. If it starts now, you need to look at the check valve in the fuel tank. that is leaking and causing you problems.

After these 2 checks, then you are looking at a fuel pump issue more than likely. It is possible that the ECU is having issues, but that would be a rarity. Lets see what you have after these checks and then we can go from there.

 

Thermo could have still been on the correct path, as the 2004 changed in April (?) to the different fuse box. Commonly called either pre or post 2004.25 or 2004.5 models (same thing just quoted as either by different folks).

As you state the post diagram matches your manual, I make the assumption yours was manufactured after April.

 

Hi Jeff,

You didn't state year in your posting, but i saw in your profile you appeared to have a 2002.
Sorry if the info given is not relevant to your year.

 

I did not realize this gas tank was so complicated and what I stepped into lol. Thanks for all the help everyone.

I didn't realize it was a saddle shape and essentially the driver side has another pump that carries it over to the passenger side. The Saddle tank doesn't seem like the most ingenious design. Probably explains why I see a ton of you tube videos for these cars people butchering the rear seat to get at the pump.... It is a unibody car every hole you put it it compromises something lol... All honestly removing the drive shaft, exhaust and straps don't scare me that much. Spray all the bolts you have to remove with liquid wrench every few days for a week it will all come apart easier.

 

Realize that the (LHD) driver's side "pump" is not really a pump, just a sensing/sending unit. The gas flow from driver's side to passenger side is accomplished by a "venturi system" driven by the true
passenger side pump.

Additionally, a unibody designed car has nothing to do with the "panels" installed i.e. the metal piece above the fuel filter. Here's a picture (top is body on chassis, bottom is unibody) of construction =

 

I'm just going to throw this out there, because mine recently failed and it sorta happened without any real warning. The Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor. Might look at that if all else mentioned above checks out.

 

Thanks guys for all the replies. I just sprayed all the bolts I need to take off with penetrating oil so I ho9pe it makes my job easier when I start taking stuff apart. I suspect it is the fuel pump I can't hear a thing from there when turnign the ignition and I can see the fuel pump fuse lights up. I'm almost 90 percent sure it is a fuel pump issue. YOu should be able to hear it I would think.

 

If you can get access to either the pump connector under the seat through the large grommet seal, or unplug the connector from the Fuel pump control module, you could do a quick pump test.
Referencing the schematic you could apply a test voltage to the correct wires (from the fuel pump control module) or to the correct pins (of the fuel pump connector) allowing you to momentarily manually power the fuel pump (very briefly connecting a 6 to 12 v source effectively to the motor) to see if you hear it responding.
This would be a test you would do for just a split second, as the fuel pump output pressure will not be regulated by anything. If you want you could disconnect the fuel line at the fuel manifold (ensuring you capture any fuel that might be discharged), so you can run the pump for slightly a longer test period. But the goal here is just ascertain if the pump will respond to a direct voltage being applied.
If you can manually power the pump, then you are looking upstream to other items such as the fuel pump controller, voltage supply lines (relay or fuses) or fuel pressure sensor.
Let us all know how you get on.

 

If it turns out to be the pump I agree dropping the exhaust and driveshaft is extra work but not that difficult. A few tips as I did this job not that long ago. With a 3/8" socket drive allen wrench and 2 universal joints I could get all all 6 of the driveshaft bolts on each end, 12 total, without having to rotate the driveshaft. Pretty sure they were 6mm allen head bolts. That was important because I had the car in Park with the front wheels on ramps so wasn't able to rotate the driveshaft without lifting the front again and putting the car in neutral. When dropping the driveshaft I tied some light duty rope near the ends so when it drops out the rope catches it so it doesn't bang onto the concrete or onto my noggin. The transaxle needs to be lowered by 2 or 3 inches. I tied rope around it and put a floor jack under it so when the support bolts were out it doesn't fall out, then I could lower it gently with the jack and cinch the ropes and move the jack out of the way. You will likely want a new band clamp to hold the muffler to the long intermediate pipe when you put it back together. This one worked for me:

Get as much gas out of the tank as soon in the process as you can. I took the tank down maybe 1/4 full and it was a struggle. Heavy, awkward, and the weight is shifting as the gas sloshes back and forth. Putting it back together with no gas in it I could lift and position the tank with one hand. Raw gas smells awful, do this job outside if you can and have something around to cap off all the openings whenever you open any of the pipes. Plastic wrap and rubber bands works great to cap things off temporarily.

Be careful with the evap system hoses. I managed to break the plastic bit that locks the evap hose that goes between the tank and the charcoal cannister either when dropping or lifting the tank and it wiggled loose after not much time after my fuel pump job and I got an evap system CEL.

Sounds like you have this, but here are the service manual jack points and jack stand points.

 

Currently troubleshooting a no start due to suspect faulty fuel pump (no fuel to the engine that I can tell...does attempt to catch with starting fuel in the manifold).
Removed the rear seat and disconnected the plug that I believe goes to the pump (beneath the center of the seat and a large rubber grommet). Having trouble determining which is the wire that goes to the fuel pump. The only wire that shows 12 volts with the ignition on run is a black/white wire that appears to be 22 gauge. Can't belief that small gauge wire is the correct one for the fuel pump, given a 20 amp fuse. I am looking to apply voltage to the pump at the under seat connector so need to make sure I have the correct wire. Can someone assist with a wire identification, diagram, code, and/or color?
And, if the black/white wire is not the correct one, then that means I'm not getting any power to the pump, but the fuse is good. Any further troubleshooting advice is appreciated.
2007 Jaguar x-type USA

 

Hey Squito,

Looks like you have a 12 way connector (CA5 shown in the schematic) going to the top of your tank.
Pins 7 and 8 appear to be your pump motor drive coming from the fuel pump module.
The wires should be Red (pin 7) and Yellow (pin 8) on the CA5 plug you are looking at....see below (from the 2005 schematic which also seems the same in the 2002 schematic as well).

 

Mark,
Thank you for the schematic. Very helpful. With the red and yellow wire being what looks like 18 ga, that makes more sense now. Still could use additional insight from the list.
Can I assume the red is the positive and the yellow is to ground? Since both wires disappear into the fuel control module, I don't want to polarize the wrong one. I have been able to verify the fuel control module is good, as I swapped it with a module from my other x-type. However, power to the fuel control module is through a green/brown wire (which is adjacent to the red wire) with no reading on the red or yellow (ignition on II...unable to check when running). Others have suggested ignition on II and listen for fuel pump operation, but not hearing anything on either car. I've done the Thermo "thump" test to the bottom of the fuel tank, have pressed the reset on the passenger foot well, and the fuel pump fuse is good. So I have three questions....
1) if I want to just test the fuel pump with a 12v battery, do I connect the red to positive and yellow to ground, or vice versa?
2) does Jaguar publish a nominal ohm reading resistance between the red and yellow wires going to a good fuel pump?
3) if I want to insert an electrical pump in line to check if the car will start (assuming fuel will be drawn through the inoperative tank fuel pump), what suggestion exist for where to splice into the fuel line?

As an additional note....
I did a OBD check and came up with codes P0447 and P0453, both apply to the evaporative emission system. The P0447 says Vent Control Circuit Open and the P0453 says Pressure Sensor/Switch High. I realize these could be responsible for the no engine start as ultimate correction is to replace the ECM, but having read previous posts, the fuel pump seems more likely.I am very open to being corrected on this and would welcome a simple evap solution, if suspect. Otherwise, just trying to positively identify the fuel pump as the problem before going the route of cutting the access hole to replace the pump. I'm two and a half hours away from the Jag dealer, so a tow is not likely and I don't want to go through the correct process of removing a 3/4 full tank in a rather cold 32 degree garage at this time.
Thank you all for any insights.
Squito

 

Hi Squito,

Wish my pump was the same as yours as that would make it easy for me to check for you, but the 2.1 V6 has different fuel delivery system and control, so hopefully the theories below will be helpful.

Fuel pump resistance should probably measure about 2 to 3 ohms only as if it draws around 5 amps from 12 volt supply then the winding should measure that low.
If you are measuring 10 or more ohms on yours, then I would hazard a guess to say the motor is resting on a dead spot which is likely worn down brushes that are struggling to reach the commutator in the motor.
Bear in mind that the motor is being driven by the fuel control module which is rapidly pulsing voltage to the motor, effectively sending it less power than if it were just connected across a raw 12 volts supply line.

Sorry, I can't tell you which wire colours would be positive and negative (as the schematic doesn't give that detail and I can't check mine due to difference in model).
If you can't measure low resistance to earth at rest from either the red or yellow wire, then the fuel pump module must be switching both positive and negative lines through its internal semiconductor devices, stopping you from a simple earthing test result to either wire.
If you wish to battery test the pump motor, perhaps a 6 volt lantern battery might be a good alternative voltage source that you can try after you have done an ohms resistance test and are happy the motor is measuring a suitable practical low resistance.
If you want to run on a 12 volt battery and want to add an easy current limiter in the test supply to your pump, add in an old 12 volt headlight lamp, or a 12 volt 50 watt halogen household lamp in series. The advantage of this is not only current limiting but also you get a visual indication of power flowing for your test.

As for inserting another fuel pump inline.......theoretically possible but remember the original pump is duty cycle managed by the fuel control module which is controlled by the ECM (receiving feedback from the fuel rail pressure sensor), so you can't just put a normal pump in line and feed it with 12 volts as you will over pressure the fuel rail and the X's have no fuel return system.
If you are thinking of inserting something inline for a engine run test, perhaps remove the fuel filter (forward of the right rear wheel underneath the car) and if you have an old sacrificial one that you possibly can cut the spigots off, then you might be able to use rubber fuel hose clamping on those spigots to graft in a test fuel pump without having to sacrifice any of the hard lines or their snap on fittings. You might also run some test wires from the original pump supply (red and yellow) to the test pump so the control is capability is still being applied to the test pump.

Good luck with your investigation and let us know what results you get.

 

Just an update to the list on this thread...
After doing troubleshooting, I was prepared to replace the fuel pump, but I decided to do one more thing...I added a bottle of ethanol treatment and a couple more gallons of fresh gas (the car had been sitting on 1/2 tank for approximately 4 months) and let that sit for three days. Car started on the next attempt. Could be coincidental, but perhaps not. I had a similar issue a year ago over the winter and the same action occurred. At any rate, I now have a spare pump in the event it the pump does go. Best solution may be to exercise it more often.