tune up quote
#2
No. Quite frankly, it's not. It's Terrible.
I paid $169 for a transfer case flush alone.
I also paid $160 for a transmission AND Differential flush
$169 + $160 = Much better deal.
Definitely shop around. I know of others on here who have either flushed their case for free, or paid less than what I myself paid.
I paid $169 for a transfer case flush alone.
I also paid $160 for a transmission AND Differential flush
$169 + $160 = Much better deal.
Definitely shop around. I know of others on here who have either flushed their case for free, or paid less than what I myself paid.
The following users liked this post:
MosDefXType (03-29-2011)
#3
No. Quite frankly, it's not. It's Terrible.
I paid $169 for a transfer case flush alone.
I also paid $160 for a transmission AND Differential flush
$169 + $160 = Much better deal.
Definitely shop around. I know of others on here who have either flushed their case for free, or paid less than what I myself paid.
I paid $169 for a transfer case flush alone.
I also paid $160 for a transmission AND Differential flush
$169 + $160 = Much better deal.
Definitely shop around. I know of others on here who have either flushed their case for free, or paid less than what I myself paid.
#4
mos, for a shop doing the work, that isn't too far off. Granted, knowing what all they are including in with the tune-up (ie, are they changing the PCV valve, cleaning the injectors, etc) as this can greatly affect the price of the service. Frankly, with modern day cars, a tune up is really nothing more than changing the plugs and looking at some things. If you lived closer, I would tell you to stop on by and we would do most of that right in my driveway in an afternoon for around $100 ($50 in plugs, $40 in gear lube, $10 in miscellaneous cleaners). Then all you would have to worry about is the tranny service.
#6
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#9
That is completely over the top. The dealers here in Washington DC do it for $250, you can take it elsewhere for less. The $250 apparently gets you better than OEM oil. I believe it's below $200 for OEM oil, and that's at the dealer.
#10
At my local dealer for the TC oil change they offer 2 choices. The one with jag oil is cheaper! Apparently since the TC oil change is NOT a jag recommended service they offer the non jag fluid. I believe for everything else it is Jag OEM stuff. Of course oil change is $50 regular or $90 for synthetic. But so far I've never had to pay for an oil change. They always give me a free oil change coupon ( they give me in groups of 3 - we've bought 2 new jags from them so far )
#11
At my local dealer for the TC oil change they offer 2 choices. The one with jag oil is cheaper! Apparently since the TC oil change is NOT a jag recommended service they offer the non jag fluid. I believe for everything else it is Jag OEM stuff. Of course oil change is $50 regular or $90 for synthetic. But so far I've never had to pay for an oil change. They always give me a free oil change coupon ( they give me in groups of 3 - we've bought 2 new jags from them so far )
#12
#13
That is definately high, the tranny flush seems to me to be pretty easy. As soon as the weather warms up I am going to flush mine. Drain, refill, and run it for a while to heat it all up, drain and refill. I don't know if there is an agent I can add initially to flush, and clean it better but just running a couple of cycles through would be better than nothing. Time consuming to jack it up, lower it down, jack it again etc but....750.00 for what will take 30-60 minutes?
#14
sidewalkman, to the defense of a professional cleaning of the tranny, they do use a solvent in the fluid to help clean up the surfaces inside the tranny and not to mention, they also flow more fluid per minute which helps flush the material out. They also take a moment to flush the system backwards to help clean out the filters and remove the particulate from them. Not saying that the price is justified, but it does do more than a simple drain and refill.
#15
sidewalkman, to the defense of a professional cleaning of the tranny, they do use a solvent in the fluid to help clean up the surfaces inside the tranny and not to mention, they also flow more fluid per minute which helps flush the material out. They also take a moment to flush the system backwards to help clean out the filters and remove the particulate from them. Not saying that the price is justified, but it does do more than a simple drain and refill.
#16
#17
sidewalkman, I am not aware of any solvents that are available. I would tell you to stop by a tranny shop and see what they may recommend. if anyone is going to have something, it will be the tranny shop.
stshots, for the transfer case, the best thing you can do is come up with the way that you are going to get the fluid back into the transfer case (whether with a kit made by a member here, a radiator drain valve like I use, the tilt method, etc) and then using a quality fluid (75W-140 full synthetic fluid), do a normal change out (ie, drain fluid, add back in 500 ml of new fluid). Now, drive the car about 200-300 miles. Change out the fluid again, adding back in 500 ml of fluid. This time the fluid coming out should be much cleaner. Some people may recommend doing the fluid swap one more time after another 200-300 miles. That is up to you.
As for the tranny, I am not a big promoter of a chemical "scrubbing" of the inside of the tranny. A varnish (the chemical build up) is a desireable thing to a point inside of the tranny. It adds a few thousandths to the metal surfaces. So, in the case something shocks the tranny, you are going to eat through the varnish before you hit the metal. Also, the varnish tends to be a little more slippery than the metal. So, it reduces the amount of heat the tranny builds up due to frictional losses.
So, normally the best course of action is a complete fluid drain (including the torque converter-if possible) and then removing any filter(s) and installing new filter(s). This will help insure maximum fluid flow (helps keep the tranny temps down) and will also give you more surface to catch any particles.
Sure, you can do back to back tranny fluid changeouts to get more of the old fluid out, but keep in mind that during any fluid change out in our cars, yo uare only getting out like 60% of the fluid due to a lot of it residing in the torque converter. Doing 2 changeouts back to back (with a short drive in between) will net you a 75-80% of the original fluid change out roughly.
stshots, for the transfer case, the best thing you can do is come up with the way that you are going to get the fluid back into the transfer case (whether with a kit made by a member here, a radiator drain valve like I use, the tilt method, etc) and then using a quality fluid (75W-140 full synthetic fluid), do a normal change out (ie, drain fluid, add back in 500 ml of new fluid). Now, drive the car about 200-300 miles. Change out the fluid again, adding back in 500 ml of fluid. This time the fluid coming out should be much cleaner. Some people may recommend doing the fluid swap one more time after another 200-300 miles. That is up to you.
As for the tranny, I am not a big promoter of a chemical "scrubbing" of the inside of the tranny. A varnish (the chemical build up) is a desireable thing to a point inside of the tranny. It adds a few thousandths to the metal surfaces. So, in the case something shocks the tranny, you are going to eat through the varnish before you hit the metal. Also, the varnish tends to be a little more slippery than the metal. So, it reduces the amount of heat the tranny builds up due to frictional losses.
So, normally the best course of action is a complete fluid drain (including the torque converter-if possible) and then removing any filter(s) and installing new filter(s). This will help insure maximum fluid flow (helps keep the tranny temps down) and will also give you more surface to catch any particles.
Sure, you can do back to back tranny fluid changeouts to get more of the old fluid out, but keep in mind that during any fluid change out in our cars, yo uare only getting out like 60% of the fluid due to a lot of it residing in the torque converter. Doing 2 changeouts back to back (with a short drive in between) will net you a 75-80% of the original fluid change out roughly.
The following 2 users liked this post by Thermo:
sidewalkman (03-31-2011),
stshots (03-30-2011)
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