Since I haven't stopped at CVS to purchase a new petroleum based prodect I'm going to take a DIY approach and stay away from the dealer if possible or go in prepared not to have to bend over and just take it.

1. My left front turn signal is out. The rear is working on the driver side but not the front. I tried to locate in the owner's manual the fuse which leads to the front turn signal to see if it's busted but many where not numbered and I had trouble following the pattern. If it's not the fuse and it's the bulb is it easy enough to repair myself? If so what part should I get and from where?

2. I had a cracked tranny mount and yes I had to grab my ankles and take it like a man. However, I now have a thump from under the car. In the past I owned another Ford producta 94 Taurus SHO 5sp manual and when I had my subframe bushings replaced the idiot put them in wrong I a had a similar thump then as well. My X is a 5sp manual and I was wondering if the sub frame had to come down first in order to change the tranny mount? I would hate to think that Jag would just screw something up purposely just to have me part with more Benji's.

3. I told Jag that in the cold weather my tranny shifts with very hard notchiness into second when cold and if I power shift into third (after warmed up) I get a grinding. They replaced the synchros and the problem is still there. Any ideas?

4. I am adding a JL sub and a MTX Mono Blockamp.
A. Is there a fuse I can tap into which will turn the amp on with only one turn of the key? The fuse I chose requires me to turn the key twice which cuts on the A/C or heat. The radio fuse I tapped into first leaves the amp on constantly and will drain the battery.
B. I have the navi with 9 speaker Alpine and I am using a Peripheral 2 channel Hi/Low converter. The amp test good, the hi/low converter test good but when I cut the car on and turn on the radio the amp turns on but the sub does not play. When I go to the trunk and touch the positive and negative wires together the sub starts to play. By buddy at the car shop believes the Alpine factory sub amp voltage is too low or the factory system may think there is a short and quickly turns the factory sub amp off. Has anyone encountered this? Any idea or solutions?

5. My wheels are 17's are scraped up pretty bad and I was wondering if any one know of any good quality wheel repair shops in the PA,NJ,DE area. I've been considering upgrading to 18's with 225/40/18's but too many have reported back rubbing with this fitment and I don't want to run a narrower tire as I do like taking the turns here on Kelly Drive in Philly.

I probably should have made seperate threads for all of this and any help or ideas will be appreciated.

Thanks,
Nate

 

Man, I'm takin lumps from each direction! Should have clarified a bit. It's not really a power shift, it's a quick shift as in when merging on to an on ramp in second gear and seeing that big @$$ orange Schneider truck growing bigger and bigger by the microsecond and you have to get from second to third really fast or else. Once I hit third going fast it grinds. That really isn't the norm.

 

You make sure when going from 2nd to 3rd you allow it to catch up to you? I've found my escape does the same thing but if you don't force it into the gear your fine...my brother keeps doing it and I tried to show him the difference...forcing it into a gear it doesn't want to doesn't necessarily make the car go faster at all at least from my experience...

BTW way to keep up the good work bo! I bet you love doing that don't you! You come on here everyday to watch the newbies come and roll in with their tons of questions!