Hello everyone. This is my first time posting/asking for help in the Jaguar Forums.

I have a 2003 Jaguar X-Type with a 2.5L engine.

A friend of mine needed a tune-up done on it. I should've thought twice about taking the job on as it had multiple problems other than a slightly rough running engine.

Regardless, he drove the car to my home, parked in the drive way and left me to do my work.

My mission was to replace the 6 spark plugs, coil boots, intake plenum gaskets, fuel filter and air filter.

After replacing everything, I attempted to start t he vehicle but it would not start. After checking for any obvious mistakes that I may have made (none found), I hooked up a fuel pressure tester.
This is where I'm totally befuddled as I've NEVER EVER seen anything like this before... When I turn the key on, the reading jumps to about 15psi and stops. When I turn it on a second time, 25psi. A third time, 30psi. After about 6 key on/key off sequences, I finally arrive at approximately 44psi. It holds there with a super mild bleed off over time. (see attached video please)

Again, when cranking the car AFTER getting to this 44psi, the engine will crank but will not start.

Also, I discovered that there was only a fraction of a millimeter of oil on the dipstick. I added some more but it is not within the add/full marks (I am going to do an oil change and not looking to waste oil).
My question is whether the low oil condition could cause it not to start. It appears this engine has Variable Valve Timing solenoids on it, so maybe the lack of clean oil getting to these might be causing a problem as well. I'm looking for thoughts on this condition as well.

I am prepared to rip the back seat out and tackle the fuel control module, but for right now, I'm not convinced that is the problem (but will move that direction if nothing else works).

I've held the accelerator pedal to floor and cranked till the started kicked out, but that didn't do anything.

I've sprayed ether into the intake manifold and it would run for the appropriate 3-5 seconds and then die.

I'm lost... please help me out y'all.

I attached a video just in case anyone desires to see what I mean.

Best,
Mike

 

Sorry, but I thought the video would be a visual but it isn't... I will try to figure out how to edit it later.

 

When you turn the key to second position the ecu tells the fuel pump to run foe a few seconds to get pressure into the fuel rail, the 2.5 and 3.0 dont have a fuel return so the fuel stays at pressure the second time you turn the key the same happens and fuel pressure rises, ect. Normally the crankin results in the engine starting and the ecu tells the pump to run till it reaches the correct pressure, the control to the pump is pulse width modulated to maintain the pressure to deal with the fuel used as the injectors fire.

feeding the either allows the engine to fire but not run as its not getting any petrol.

look the plugs and coil packs did you plug them back on?

 

Hi, thanks for your quick response.

Quick update... added oil to crankcase to bring it near the full mark.

Tried starting again, but nothing.

Now, here is the point where I display some ignorance... on the coils, I replaced the tip boot, the upper seal and the spring. I put the spring in where the big end of the spring touches the plug. When I took the old ones out, there was a combination of both... small diameter end at plug and some with large diameter spring at plug. I derived that the big end goes to the plug only because the big end of the spring WOULD NOT go into the coil and touch the coil contact. There was maybe one where the little end may have not touched the coil contact, but obviously no way to tell for sure... Regardless, all the springs are in where the big diameter end touches the plug.

I have taken the intake off, even adjusted the titanium plugs (bent the ground electrode) out to .051 inches as the plugs were only set to around .040 out of the box.

The intake manifold is sitting nice and tight against the intake manifold... torqued the 6 bolts to 90 inch pounds.

Connected all the sensors, brake booster line, purge line, and everything else.

Any suggestions on what's next or what I might have done wrong.

Thanks.

 

Mike,

You can't post video directly to the forum - it has to be as a link to an online storage location.

Graham

 

It sounds like the electrical is OK if it runs on starting fluid. It also sounds like you are measuring fuel pressure at or near the fuel rail and have pressure (I have a 2005, there is no place to measure fuel pressure). At 44 psi the engine should fire at least a second or 2 even if it can't hold that pressure. The only link between a fuel rail with pressure and cylinders getting no fuel is the fuel injectors. Surely they couldn't have all gone bad. Could be a bad ground connection for the injectors? Can you get a stethoscope or a long screwdriver onto one of the injectors and listen for the clicking?

Another thought, cylinder 2 (front of car, furthest to passenger side in the US) coil and spark plug are accessible with everything together. Crank the car for a few seconds, remove the coil, remove the spark plug. Does the plug smell like raw gas?

Final thought, while the engine is cranking either spray a little starting fluid or use a propane torch to get propane around the vacuum lines. If there is a big vacuum leak the starting fluid or propane will get sucked in and make the engine catch enough to cough, then you can zero in on where the vacuum leak is.

 

MIchael, from the sounds of things, you either have a large restriction in the fuel system or the fuel pump is going.

Now, what I would say to do is to connect up the fuel pressure gauge again and simply turn the key to the RUN position (do not roll to START). The pressure gauge should quickly rise to around 55 psig (within a second). If it doesn't, then I would say the first check/try is to move around to the passenger side of the car and locate the gas tank. If you look in the bottom, there is a large half moon indention in the tank. Make a fist and give the center of that half moon a good whack or two and then see how fast the pressure rises. If it suddenly starts to rise fast, then this is a classic sign the fuel pump is going out. The next thing I would do is to raise the car up and check the fuel filter. I know this is a silly question to ask, but did you install the fuel filter in the correct direction (yes, there is an inlet and an outlet). if the fuel filter is installed in the correct orientation, then I would be questioning the fuel filter and replacing it just to rule out that you didn't get a bad fuel filter. This may be a good time to have someone help you and what you do is with the fuel filter removed, you put the gas tank side line into a bottle that can handle gasoline. Then roll the key to the RUN position for a few seconds. You should see a strong stream of fluid coming out of that hose. If it is weak or there is little flow, then your pump is toast.

I am thinking that the fuel filter is either in backwards or the filter is bad. Getting the car to run by spraying starter fluid into the intake tells me that the plugs, coils and timing are all good. So, this really only leaves the fuel system as suspect. Based on the slow pressure build up, that is telling me that either there is a blockage or the fuel pump is failing.

 

Thanks Graham.

 

dh53, thanks for your feedback. The 03 XType I'm working on has a schraeder valve on the inlet to the fuel rail. I certainly would agree that the odd's of all 6 fuel injectors going bad is next to none. I like your idea about using the stethoscope for determining if the injectors are energizing.
I pulled the coil and used one of the old plugs to see whether or not there was fire during crank. There was an erratic spark, but I think that was only because I didn't have a great ground for the plug.
I did not try the ether around the vacuum connections yet, but I do believe that I'll find all the connections in good working order.
The owner of the car and I both decided that because the fuel in the tank looks like a muddy river and our readings DID NOT immediately register the proper pressure (40 - 50 psi) that he would order a new fuel pump and we'll replace it. Our plans are to cut an access hole above the fuel pump and change it out that way... saving gads of time and energy.
Thanks again dh53, I appreciate your feedback very much.

 

Thanks for your response Thermo. Like I wrote to dh53, it appears that the fuel is highly contaminated as it looks like a muddy river (with some mild exaggeration).

When I connected the fuel gauge, it took several key on/off cycles to get it to the desired fuel pressure, 45psi. With each on/off cycle the pressure would increase about 10 psi. It would never do the 45psi in one shot.

Tomorrow (Wednesday), I will attempt to bang on the bottom of the tank where you suggested to see what happens. Also, I did in fact change the fuel filter and that is when I realized that the fuel colorization was of muddy water consistency. Both the customer and I have decided the best course of action is to just replace the fuel pump with a new one and clean the tank out while in there.

Regarding the fuel filter orientation, the old filter was installed correctly according to the flow diagram on the new filter. I'm may need to purchase a new fuel filter bracket as the previous mechanic "tie wrapped" the filter into place... he or someone else broke the bolt off in the hold down clamp. If you know where one might get one of these, please let me know. I may be able to fix this one, but just in case.

Also, the electrical connector shattered to the throttle body motor (not the TPS). Right now, I have the individual wires plugged into the motor port. I really don't like this and would love to get it replaced as well.

Thanks again Thermo for your awesome feedback.

 

Throttle body motor connection =

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...smashed-99605/

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-plugs-235391/

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...-plugs-149482/

 

So a flag raised it's head for me on your fuel pressure post. I had a fuel pump going (didn't know that) & chased intermittent codes (different ones) for months. Also if fuel was low, car was driving, park and no start. Baffled me, was running, stopped, next day, no start. Fuel gauge showed low but no "low fuel" light (it'll make sense). Finally a real mess occured (read my thread "my kitty died today"). During trying to get it started before the final solution, I changed the fuel filter (discharging all pressure) and residual fuel looked as you explained (like cola colored). Before attempting to start it, I had my OBD plugged in to monitor fuel pressure. Key to #2 (not start) = fuel pressure @ 10, off and #2 = @ 20, repeated until pressure reached "normal" of 55 p.s.i. Started up and ran. The saga goes on for much more but in the end I replaced the fuel pump (again my thread is long discussion, pros/cons, pictures & final results). AND tank was clean as brand new (no dirty gas).

So here is what I would try, put 5 gal fuel min in tank. Purge fuel pressure. Look at fuel pressures with (you have a Schrader) gauge or OBD. Roll key (#2) several times like before and see if it incrementally pressurizes. This apparently is an indication the pump is going. Been told it should pressurize all the way to 55 p.s.i. on first key roll to #2 position. Hope it reaches 55 p.s.i. Then start it. If it starts, chances are the pump is the problem. If you're curious about the no "low fuel" light (ended fixed), etc. go read my thread.

 

Quick tangent I just read regarding fuel pressure. Sometime around 2005 the US EPA phased in reduced emissions standards. Car makers eliminated Schrader valves because they leak a tiny bit. It wasn't just Jag that eliminated that handy port for measuring pressure.

 

But if that were true (not doubting you), wouldn't that necessitate that all schrader valves would be eliminated including the ones on A/C where the EPA goes ballistic over refrigerant releasing into the air?

 

You are trying to apply logic to a bureaucratic decision? My guess is in the small print there is delineation between hydrocarbons, NOx, VOCs, particulates, etc to meet a certain phase of the LEV-2 emission standards.

From the X-Type 2004 Model Year Update Technical Guide:

Changes to the Powertrain area include:
• The redesign of the fuel system to meet USA Federal LEV 2 emissions requirements:
– New fuel tank.
– New carbon canister (NAS markets only).
– Deletion of the fuel rail ’schraeder’ valve.
– New filler pipe assembly and cap.