Just wondering if anybody is running this or a similar product in their cars.


I first learned about it with the Disco; the cooling system is those trucks is pretty lame, but a pint of wetter added to the tank definitely cooled the thing down, about 8ºF or so; in my Town and Country minvan (3.8 litre, mildly breathed on, about 320 bhp), it was good for a clean 12º F.


I'm going to flush and fill this weekend, and I don't see anybody mentioning it here.


I'm planning to use Prestone (the new bright yellow stuff) because I have found that it works very well with aluminum, and it is pretty affordable when you buy the concentrate and mix it with distilled water.


Just wondering if I should drop the extra $10 for the add-in.

 

Water wetter is exactly the same package of additives that is already blended into every modern coolant. More is not better.

If it did tend to cool the engine better, the thermostat would compensate and bring the temp back up to the correct temperature.

No gain except the loss to your wallet.

 

If your car is running good I would not add more additives to atack your waterpump

 

I've actually had great success with it in other vehicles; it is definitely NOT in the analysis that came back on my coolant, and not in new, fresh coolant.

I have noticed that the radiator cores and water pumps tend to stay cleaner with the stuff, but I haven't heard any Jag owners using it, so I figured I'd ask.

I had never even heard of the stuff until the Land Rover engineers suggested it...definitely cooled down that big V8, took it right down to the thermostat temp.

I'll likely skip it for now.

 

An X-type in good operating condition should operate right at thermostat temp. If not, look for the root cause, not resort to hokey band-aids.

 

Mikey, it doesn't try to "fix" anything. They are intended to be used after the system is working properly.

My cooling system is working as it should, but that is 12-20º above the thermostat, depending on demand. Again, that is right where Jaguar says it will be.

The Discovery, with the supercharger, had a 194º thermostat; they typically run between 210 and 230 degrees (all Fahrenheit). 1 pint of the stuff consistently reduced the temperature by 8º.

My T&C has a mildly built 3.8L V6, 320hp on the engine dyno, 194º thermo, that runs at 220-225 on 50/50, and 210-214 with the stuff.

Obviously, even though it is 10.5:1 compression, the Jag 2.5 isn't working nearly as hard as either of the other engines, so I wondered if anyone was using it. It appears not, so I won't.

Again, it does nothing to fix a broken system, and you don't want to add it to a dirty system. What is does is reduce the friction of the water by a measurable amount, and reduces or eliminates cavitation (the bugbear in the LR motor). It is used sparingly; too much impair cooling because the coolant will pass through the system faster than optimum and reduce the time that the radiator actually has to exchange heat. At any rate, the Land Rover people actually recommended it, but the Rover's cooling system left a lot to be desired. Heat transfer between the aluminum heads and the 40 year old Buick block design was spotty, and it was not a matter of IF you would cook a head gasket, but when!

Royal Purple has a version, as well, but that does not get along with aluminum all that well.

Looking at the Porsche-designed modular system, it is obvious that efficient, consistent cooling was designed into our engines.

Again, I completely agree that a band-aid on a malfunctioning system is stupid; you're far better served to fix the problem.

 

You misunderstand cooling system design.

The rated thermostat temp is where it starts to open. The fully open temp is considerably higher. The engine ideally runs between these two limits as the thermostat responds to demands. The idea that miracle juice, and again- 'water wetter' is made up of the same anti-corrosion and more importantly surfactants as regular coolant- can somehow cause the thermostat to change it's operating range makes no sense unless the engine is producing more heat than the radiator can shed even with the thermostat fully open.

Even if true, there's nothing to be gained by constantly running an engine cooler than the OEM design.

Let's leave the boy racer stuff to the fart can exhaust crowd.

 

The stuff is heavily used in construction equipment, locomotives, and the big maritime stuff, so it isn't exactly boy-racer stuff.


Now, as far as the people (outside of track-only cars) who run the stuff with only water...well....


We used it in the big transmitter cooling supplies, which are essentially glorified auto cooling systems. Fully aware that it will not change the characteristics on the thermostat, but with the LR, hit the thermo temp, the wax melts, and BAM...full open, you can hear it snap from inside of the car! The van is a little slower, and I haven't hooked the computer up to the Jag yet.


Like I said, I'll by-pass it for now.

 

The point is that no auto OEM, including Jag, sees any need to use a supplement to regular coolant. What's required for industrial use is not really relevant.

 

True!