Believe it or not, I've been using the Walmart brand of 5-30 full synthetic. It meets all requirements, and is half the price of the big name brands. I change every 3-4 thousand miles (filter too), and have had no problems at all.

 

"I once had a friend" (that's my code phrase for "I'm about to tell you something about myself that I'll deny later") who had a classic VW bug that was so worn-out it wasn't worth putting any money into. Problem was; it just kept running! it went through oil faster than anything else "my friend" ever owned..... so I used to buy people's USED oil, and I'd run it through it. I'd put two quarts in every time I filled it with gas!

 

This may enlighten..



Oil viscosity refers to how easily oil pours at a specified temperature. Thinner oils have a water-like consistency and pour more easily at low temperatures than heavier, thicker oils that have a more honey-like consistency. Thin is good for easier cold weather starting and reducing friction, while thick is better for maintaining film strength and oil pressure at high temperatures and loads. The viscosity rating of a motor oil is determined in a laboratory by a Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) test procedure. The viscosity of the oil is measured and given a number, which some people also refer to as the "weight" (thickness) of the oil. The lower the viscosity rating or weight, the thinner the oil. The higher the viscosity rating, the thicker the oil. MOTOR OIL VISCOSITY RATINGS
Viscosity ratings for commonly used motor oils typically range from 0 up to 50. A "W" after the number stands for "Winter" grade oil, and represents the oil's viscosity at zero degrees F. Low viscosity motor oils that pour easily at low temperatures typically have a "5W" or "10W" rating. There are also 15W and 20W grade motor oils. Higher viscosity motor oils that are thicker and better suited for high temperature operation typically have an SAE 30, 40 or even 50 grade rating. These numbers, by the way, are for "single" or "straight" weight oils. Such oils are no longer used in late model automotive engines but may be required for use in some vintage and antique engines. Straight SAE 30 oil is often specified for small air-cooled engines in lawnmowers, garden tractors, portable generators and gas-powered chain saws. MULTI-VISCOSITY MOTOR OILS Most modern motor oils are formulated from various grades of oil so the oil will have the best characteristics of both thick and thin viscosity oils. Multi-viscosity oils flow well at low temperature for easier starting yet retain enough thickness and film strength at high temperature to provide adequate film strength and lubrication. A thin oil such as a straight SAE 10W oil designed for cold weather use would probably not provide adequate lubrication for hot weather, high speed driving. Likewise, a thicker high temperature oil such as SAE 30 or 40 would probably become so stiff at sub-zero temperatures the engine might not crank fast enough to start. Multi-viscosity grade oils have a wide viscosity range which is indicated by a two-number rating. Popular multi-viscosity grades today include 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30, 10W-40 and 20W-50. The first number with the "W" refers to the oil's cold temperature viscosity, while the second number refers to its high temperature viscosity. Note: Motor oils that have a wider range viscosity rating such a 5W-30, 5W-40 and 0W-40 are blended with more base stocks and additives. Because of this, it may be harder for a wider range oil to remain in grade as the miles accumulate (which is why GM does NOT recommend using 10W-40 motor oil they say it breaks down too quickly and does not say in grade as long as 10W-30 or 5W-30). Also, an oil with a lower winter rating like 0W-40 or 5W-20 will contain a higher percentage of thinner base stock oil. This requires more viscosity improver additive to achieve a the same high temperature rating as a 10W-30, 10W-40 or straight 30 or 40 weight oil. Most vehicle manufacturers today specify 5W-20 or 5W-30 for newer vehicles for year-round driving. Some European car makes also specify 0W-30, 0W-40 or 5W-40 for their vehicles. Always refer to the vehicle owners manual for specific oil viscosity recommendations, or markings on the oil filler cap or dipstick. As a rule, overhead cam (OHC) engines typically require thinner oils such as 5W-30 or 5W-20 to speed lubrication of the overhead cam(s) and valve-train when the engine is first started. Pushrod engines, by comparison, can use either 5W-30, 10W-30 or 10W-40. As mileage adds up and internal engine wear increases bearing clearances, it may be wise to switch to a slightly higher viscosity rating to prolong engine life, reduce noise and oil consumption. For example, if an engine originally factory-filled with 5W-30 now has 90,000 miles on it, switching to a 10W-30 oil may provide better lubrication and protection. The thicker oil will maintain the strength of the oil film in the bearings better so the engine will have more oil pressure. This will also reduce engine noise and reduced bearing fatigue (which can lead to bearing failure in high mileage engines). For sustained high temperature, high load operation, an even heavier oil may be used in some situations. Some racing engines use 20W-50, but this would only be recommended for an engine with increased bearing clearances. Increasing the viscosity of the oil also increases drag and friction, which can sap horsepower from the crankshaft. That's why 20W-50 racing oil would not be the best choice for everyday driving or cold weather operation for most vehicles. The latest trend in racing is to run tighter bearing clearances and use thinner oils such as 0W-30, 0W-40, 5W-20 or 5W-30 to reduce friction and drag.

 

Castrol Syntec 5 W 30 & K & N filter

 

McJ, I (er a friend) had similar situation with a VW bug. I swear I (um he) was running it soley on vegetable oil and "Stop Smoke".I (he) carried a case of it inthe back seat. I (he) also had to always park on a hill because he (I) couldn't afford a new battery. So popping the clutch was the preferred way of starting it. But, it was red and a convertible. Loads of funcruising chix in the summer!!!!! btw just kidding about the vegetable oil because the car always smelled like french fries.

 

Dennis:
Excellent info...
can you site the reference? Because this is possibly the first 'definitive' statement I've seen on using heavier oil as the clearances grow.... I'd like to know where it's coming from. I don;t necessarily disagree.... as I'm a little old-school myself, but because of the amount of debate that goes on about the practice, it'd be nice to site a reference.

 

Sure, you bet..My Bad for not posting the link

OIL VISCOSITY

 

How do folks here feel about WIX filters? I've never used them, but was reading an ad from the company earlier today. The company claims WIX filters capture 45% more dirt than the leading brand and lasts 30% longer.

I've also read good things about Napa Gold filters elsewhere, as I was researching why FRAM filters are universally despised. I don't think I'll ever use a FRAM filter again, but I might try WIX, Napa Gold or Purolator filters going forward. Any thoughts?

If any of you use WIX or Napa Gold filters, would you happen to know the model number the X-Type needs?

 

In my book..The WIX brand is superior to any..I will use them when I use up my last OEM filter..I think O'reillys sells them..not sure.

 

Ok, well if Dennis says they're the best, that's good enough for me.

I found these part numbers for the 2005 X-Types at www.wixfilters.com(seems like the same parts are used for the 2002 to 2008 models)

Air Filter 42625
Oil Filter 57301

They also have a zipcode lookup feature on their web site that allows you to find stores in your area that carry WIX products. There are a couple of dozen retailers in my area.

 

WIX is the only brand I am using besides OEM

 

Oil Filter 57301
JAGUAR S-TYPE (2006 - 2008)
JAGUAR X-TYPE (2002 - 2008)
JAGUAR X-TYPE SPORT 2006
JAGUAR X-TYPE VDP EDITION 2006