Wheel noise + wheel gets VERY hot
#1
Wheel noise + wheel gets VERY hot
Hi,
Sorry if there was an answer in another thread but I couldn't find it.
This is a problem I'm having for the last year or so and it's driving me nuts.
After 30 minutes of driving passenger side front wheel gets VERY hot, there is also this terrible sound coming from the wheel which comes and goes and I can sometimes feel strong vibration on the pedal when braking.
This is what I've done to date:
1) Replaced Tyres
2) Replaced Brake Discs
3) Replaced Brake Pads
4) Replaced Brake Calliper
5) Replaced Brake Fluid Hose
6) Replaced Bearing
What next? Please, can anyone help me?
Thanks,
Declan
Sorry if there was an answer in another thread but I couldn't find it.
This is a problem I'm having for the last year or so and it's driving me nuts.
After 30 minutes of driving passenger side front wheel gets VERY hot, there is also this terrible sound coming from the wheel which comes and goes and I can sometimes feel strong vibration on the pedal when braking.
This is what I've done to date:
1) Replaced Tyres
2) Replaced Brake Discs
3) Replaced Brake Pads
4) Replaced Brake Calliper
5) Replaced Brake Fluid Hose
6) Replaced Bearing
What next? Please, can anyone help me?
Thanks,
Declan
#2
check the hub bolt torque, you may have it overtightened.
check to make sure the caliper is free moving..meaning the bolts are not jammed.
bleed the break system and make sure fluid is coming out of the bleeder valve/bolt.
make sure nothing is rubbing against the actual rim or tire.
vibration in the pedal means warped rotors, or sometimes worn out tie rods.
check to make sure the caliper is free moving..meaning the bolts are not jammed.
bleed the break system and make sure fluid is coming out of the bleeder valve/bolt.
make sure nothing is rubbing against the actual rim or tire.
vibration in the pedal means warped rotors, or sometimes worn out tie rods.
#3
The flexible brake hose may have collapsed internally so the brake fluid can't flow back to the master cylinder to release the pressure in the caliper thereby keeping the pads pressed against the rotor. Jack the wheel up, insert jack stand and try to spin the wheel after applying the brakes a few times (engine running, in park). If the wheel is locked in place or very hard to turn, open up the bleeder valve to release pressure, close it and try to spin the wheel. If it spins easier then you know the brake line is constricted and not allowing the caliper to release. If the brake hose is bad then replace both sides at the same time. If the wheel doesn't spin easier after opening the bleeder screw then the caliper may be stuck (either piston or slides) or as ghettomike said, check the wheel bearing torque. After you have determined what is wrong, go back and bleed the line (this should be done anytime you have to open a bleeder screw).
#4
I think it would help if you narrowed down some variables. When you say the wheel is hot, I take it you mean the rim. What about the actual brake rotor. If that is hot (and it would need to be really hot to transfer the heat to the rim so beware touching it) then you've got a caliper issue. Likely a siezed caliper causing constant pressure to be applied, like driving with your foot on the brake.
#5
Thanks everyone, I appreciate your help.
@ sidewalkman- Yes, I did mean the rim, sorry for not being specific. Will check it out if the braking disc also gets hot, but I'm sure it does; however I did replace the calliper some time ago but it didn't fix the problem
@ Razkid- I did replace brake hose as well few months back, but the problem remains
@ ghettomike- will check these out, but my mechanic was replacing ABS sensor few weeks back and didn't notice any problems
Anyway, I'll get it all checked again and let you know, but I doubt if any of the problems mentioned apply to me.
Thanks again!
@ sidewalkman- Yes, I did mean the rim, sorry for not being specific. Will check it out if the braking disc also gets hot, but I'm sure it does; however I did replace the calliper some time ago but it didn't fix the problem
@ Razkid- I did replace brake hose as well few months back, but the problem remains
@ ghettomike- will check these out, but my mechanic was replacing ABS sensor few weeks back and didn't notice any problems
Anyway, I'll get it all checked again and let you know, but I doubt if any of the problems mentioned apply to me.
Thanks again!
#6
Just curious, have you ever taken it to a dealer for evaluation? Sounds like you have replaced a number of things that you would think would be the most likely cuases without any success. If something is generating that much heat that you can feel it on the rim and it's making a bad noise something is definitely not right and could be something that is serious or a safety issue at some point. Plus, after spending all that time and money replacing things it might be time to have dealer look at it. Or at the very least a different mechanic. If you haven't gotten to the root cause after A YEAR you need to try at different approach.
#7
Thanks @ Alfadude, never went back to JAG dealer after they charged me for servicing €750 some 3 years ago or so
I did in fact replace my mechanic too. My current mechanic replaced the bearing which didn't fix the problem while previous mechanic replaced all the other things. So my current mechanic has also no idea what else can be wrong. I might need to get checked everything suggested in this Forum thoroughly once again and if everything is ok may need to go to JAG service.
I did in fact replace my mechanic too. My current mechanic replaced the bearing which didn't fix the problem while previous mechanic replaced all the other things. So my current mechanic has also no idea what else can be wrong. I might need to get checked everything suggested in this Forum thoroughly once again and if everything is ok may need to go to JAG service.
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#9
Had similar issue with left rear. Does it smell like burning rubber? Is the E brake functioning properly? What has most likely happened is that the caliper has seized and you are basically dragging the wheel. You will notice that the e brake has lost its strength as well due to the seized caliper not allowing the cable to pull the caliper and hold. My suggestion if this is the issue is to change BOTH calipers when doing the job and save yourself the headache of doing one side and then having to do the other side a week later. Rebuilt calipers wholesale for about $80 each. Changing the rear calipers is not that difficult however it is a lot harder than doing the front brakes which are a breeze. You will need two people as you will need to breed the brakes unless you have a brake bleeder kit.
#10
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