My car is throwing intermittent P0174 codes so I searched here and saw a few threads on this error. Well I can confirm that the o-rings on my air control valve (not sure if that is the right technical term) are leaking. I get a pronounced whistle coming out of the top one when cold. It does go away once the car warms up but it has thrown the code by then.

Are these o-rings dealer only? Are these standard o-rings that I can find at a hardware store?

I went to a few local auto parts stores and they looked at me like I am nuts when I explain what I need.

I swiped, err borrowed, a picture from another thread to show the parts in question. Here is the thread I was reviewing.https://www.jaguarforums.com/m_34490/tm.htm



Thanks










[IMG]local://upfiles/3130/7C4803A32FAE4141BB9EDBECA87F6153.jpg[/IMG]

 

I bought mine from the dealer. They were in stock and cost $2.70 Canadian each. Why bother to shop around?
Also if you take measurements from the existing they may be too small. We are told the latest Jag rings are slightly larger than original to fix this problem.

Brian

 

And I think there is a color difference too..orange or something like that..But I wouldn't put any hardware store O ring on, they are not made for the heat.

 

OK, I was trying to avoid the dealer just because they are quite a drive but I will make the trek tomorrow. I will post my results, thanks for the advice.

 

ONT YOU JUST HAVE THEM MAIL THEM, ALONG WITH A PCV HOSE, AND THE BRAKE BOOSTER LINE. THAT WAY YOU'LL TAKE CARE OF ALL THE POTENTIAL VACUUM LEAKS AT ONCE. IF THEY ARENT LEAKING NOW THEY WILL. AND THE UPDATED ORINGS GO FROM YELLOW TO GREEN

 

You da Man Bill..I knew it was a color change..

 

OK I took off the top Intake Manifold Tuning valve to get at the o-ring (thankfully this is the one whistling). What I noticed on mine is the lower one will not come off as the valve cover is in the way. I tried twisting quite a few different ways but no luck. This may be the excuse I need to pull the intake. If I decide to do this then I will install new plugs and I may even go the extrude hone route in an effort to extract a few more MPG out of the car. Wait I mean HP.

Has anyone been able to remove the lower Intake Tuning Valve with the intake on? If so I may try a little more to wiggle it around and see if I get lucky, but I doubt it.

I checked the brake and PCV lines and all look good. I noticed the spot where the brake booster connects to the intake seemed loose but there was no vacuum leak there. I am going to sift through the manual I have to see how this is connected. I hate pulling and tugging on these little plastic pieces as they are so brittle. Stay tuned more to come.

 

I think that is the case you have to remove the upper intake assy ..but while you are at it, you might as well change the spark plugs too..Also you will need a gasket set to put the intake manifold back on.

 

no dont do that!!!!!!!
tooooooo much work!

Just cut the old one of with a razor blade(if it isnt already split) and slip the new one on from the back. Its gonna be a little stretch to get the new one on past the fat part... but believe me you'll be happy you did. It shouldn't break the o ring either.. just keep both sides kind of even when you stretch it over and do one side at a time to limit stretch.

 

And you shouldv'e listened to bill when he said to get the other hoses!
Now you're gonna have to go back to the dealer in the near future to fix your next air leak