Will a C1115 (wheel speed sensor fault) code set a check engine light
#1
Will a C1115 (wheel speed sensor fault) code set a check engine light
So I hadn't fired up my X-Type in a few days. The car seems to have some sort of intermittent wheel speed sensor issue. Occasionally when I hit the brakes I get the ABS light and the DSC System fault message. But 95% of the time it's fine after a restart.
Today I fired it up, and it ran REALLY rough. Almost felt like it was going to stall and the rpm's were bouncing. After it warmed up a bit it smoothed out and felt fine, but there was a check engine light.
Mind you it's been under 10 degrees at night, and it lives outside.
SO I scanned it.
ALL the readiness monitors were set, and the only codes that were listed were P1111 (system set), and C1115 (the abs sensor). I cleared the codes, and then it had a P1000 (not set yet). MIL is off.
Will the ABS malfunction set the check engine light??
Thanks in advance,
George
Today I fired it up, and it ran REALLY rough. Almost felt like it was going to stall and the rpm's were bouncing. After it warmed up a bit it smoothed out and felt fine, but there was a check engine light.
Mind you it's been under 10 degrees at night, and it lives outside.
SO I scanned it.
ALL the readiness monitors were set, and the only codes that were listed were P1111 (system set), and C1115 (the abs sensor). I cleared the codes, and then it had a P1000 (not set yet). MIL is off.
Will the ABS malfunction set the check engine light??
Thanks in advance,
George
#2
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You could possibly get a CEL based on the tranny shifting oddly. But, in your case, I feel that the two are not related. Keep in mind that the wheel speed sensor is used to calculate the speedo of the car (an average of the 4 wheels) which is used to determine the shift points of the tranny and also the functions of the ABS system (ie, amount of braking power to each wheel). When the computer senses a sensor failure, it will then shift to monitoring the other 3 and taking the average of those 3 to determine shift points and ABS operation. It is when you start getting 2 wheel speed sensor failures that things can get really goofey. The computer won't know which 2 are good and which 2 are bad. You can imagine the mess that would create.
#3
You could possibly get a CEL based on the tranny shifting oddly. But, in your case, I feel that the two are not related. Keep in mind that the wheel speed sensor is used to calculate the speedo of the car (an average of the 4 wheels) which is used to determine the shift points of the tranny and also the functions of the ABS system (ie, amount of braking power to each wheel). When the computer senses a sensor failure, it will then shift to monitoring the other 3 and taking the average of those 3 to determine shift points and ABS operation. It is when you start getting 2 wheel speed sensor failures that things can get really goofey. The computer won't know which 2 are good and which 2 are bad. You can imagine the mess that would create.
Take care,
George
#5
code C1155
Hello,
It was pouring dogs and cats, the weather was really bad last night. I started my engine this morning and used the reader and I got the only trouble code C1155, I understand that is the Left Front speed sensor also the check engine light is on for some reason I also feel my E brake loose, when I pull it the light comes on but i feel no resistance it is not hard at all to pull it and does not brake. I hope this happened already to someone so I can use the feedback from that challenge.
Any advise?
It was pouring dogs and cats, the weather was really bad last night. I started my engine this morning and used the reader and I got the only trouble code C1155, I understand that is the Left Front speed sensor also the check engine light is on for some reason I also feel my E brake loose, when I pull it the light comes on but i feel no resistance it is not hard at all to pull it and does not brake. I hope this happened already to someone so I can use the feedback from that challenge.
Any advise?
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jtrujillo784 (10-22-2012)
#6
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rf69, the e-brake issue that you are experiencing is one of your e-brake levers on a rear caliper is sticking. So, what is happening is the lever has no resistance since it is eating up the slack in the cable from the lever not going back to where it should be. This is a common problem with our cars. If you look at the rear calipers, you should be able to figure out which one has the frozen e-brake lever. sometimes you can fix it by simply pulling the arm off and lubricating the shaft. In some bad cases, you have to disassemble the caliper. While this isn't hard, you do need a special socket (14mm pentasocket - 5 pointed socket). I have a write up here that talks about what it takes to tear the caliper apart and fix this issue. If you need a link to it, I will provide it.
The e-brake and the wheel speed sensor issue are not related. As for the wheel speed sensor, I would start with removing the wheel speed sensor and then using a multimeter, test to see if the sensor is good (if you need to know how to do this, let me know). From there, also give the wiring between the sensor and the engine bay a good look over to make sure it doesn't have any issues. If the sensor checks out and the wiring looks good, then odds are you are looking at a bad wheel bearing.
If you need any further assistance, let me know.
The e-brake and the wheel speed sensor issue are not related. As for the wheel speed sensor, I would start with removing the wheel speed sensor and then using a multimeter, test to see if the sensor is good (if you need to know how to do this, let me know). From there, also give the wiring between the sensor and the engine bay a good look over to make sure it doesn't have any issues. If the sensor checks out and the wiring looks good, then odds are you are looking at a bad wheel bearing.
If you need any further assistance, let me know.
#7
rf69, the e-brake issue that you are experiencing is one of your e-brake levers on a rear caliper is sticking. So, what is happening is the lever has no resistance since it is eating up the slack in the cable from the lever not going back to where it should be. This is a common problem with our cars. If you look at the rear calipers, you should be able to figure out which one has the frozen e-brake lever. sometimes you can fix it by simply pulling the arm off and lubricating the shaft. In some bad cases, you have to disassemble the caliper. While this isn't hard, you do need a special socket (14mm pentasocket - 5 pointed socket). I have a write up here that talks about what it takes to tear the caliper apart and fix this issue. If you need a link to it, I will provide it.
The e-brake and the wheel speed sensor issue are not related. As for the wheel speed sensor, I would start with removing the wheel speed sensor and then using a multimeter, test to see if the sensor is good (if you need to know how to do this, let me know). From there, also give the wiring between the sensor and the engine bay a good look over to make sure it doesn't have any issues. If the sensor checks out and the wiring looks good, then odds are you are looking at a bad wheel bearing.
If you need any further assistance, let me know.
The e-brake and the wheel speed sensor issue are not related. As for the wheel speed sensor, I would start with removing the wheel speed sensor and then using a multimeter, test to see if the sensor is good (if you need to know how to do this, let me know). From there, also give the wiring between the sensor and the engine bay a good look over to make sure it doesn't have any issues. If the sensor checks out and the wiring looks good, then odds are you are looking at a bad wheel bearing.
If you need any further assistance, let me know.
Very good info thermo thanks for you help. I will take a look this Sunday
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#8
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#10
Good luck!
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rf69 (06-01-2012)
#11
I think what you are calling an AWD light is the Dynamic Stability Control light. Yes, it will come on with an ABS fault because it utilizes the ABS system AND the Engine Management System to do its job. Hence the Check Engine light as well; that fault will store in both the ABS Module AND the ECM.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Any idea of how much it will cost me the labor and parts if needed through a Jaguar dealer?? $$$
In case it is complicated for me and time consuming since I am kind of busy lately.
#12
Good luck!
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rf69 (06-05-2012)
#13
Cruise control
Hi,
My cruise control is not working I do not if it is related to the wheel speed sensor ABS isue but I installed a new speed sensor from partstrain.com $20 plus tax But I still get the ABS and Engine light on, my reader is giving me only the trouble code C1155 so since the speed sensor is good I am assuming I have a bad front driver side wheel bearing so I check partsgeek.com and I saw it around $22 plus tax but they sell also the wheel hub for $80 plus tax with the bearing included so I think I am going to go for it since I broke a stud while trying to get the lug nut out with my air gun other than that I do not know what to do with the cruise control not working
My cruise control is not working I do not if it is related to the wheel speed sensor ABS isue but I installed a new speed sensor from partstrain.com $20 plus tax But I still get the ABS and Engine light on, my reader is giving me only the trouble code C1155 so since the speed sensor is good I am assuming I have a bad front driver side wheel bearing so I check partsgeek.com and I saw it around $22 plus tax but they sell also the wheel hub for $80 plus tax with the bearing included so I think I am going to go for it since I broke a stud while trying to get the lug nut out with my air gun other than that I do not know what to do with the cruise control not working
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jtrujillo784 (10-22-2012)
#14
i have the exact same problem
Somebody help?
Hello,
It was pouring dogs and cats, the weather was really bad last night. I started my engine this morning and used the reader and I got the only trouble code C1155, I understand that is the Left Front speed sensor also the check engine light is on for some reason I also feel my E brake loose, when I pull it the light comes on but i feel no resistance it is not hard at all to pull it and does not brake. I hope this happened already to someone so I can use the feedback from that challenge.
Any advise?
It was pouring dogs and cats, the weather was really bad last night. I started my engine this morning and used the reader and I got the only trouble code C1155, I understand that is the Left Front speed sensor also the check engine light is on for some reason I also feel my E brake loose, when I pull it the light comes on but i feel no resistance it is not hard at all to pull it and does not brake. I hope this happened already to someone so I can use the feedback from that challenge.
Any advise?
#16
I recently replace my left front spindle due to a hard hit in a pot hole that dent my barring - after replacing it I received c1155 - also driving awhile my care goes into safe mode "gear fault " which I can still drive but cars extremely sluggish - I have to shut car off - or reset battery - so the car can go back to normal - I want to fix it but not sure how to test the sensor & the plug which connect to the spindle to the car - also want to check the abs module to see if power is running in - also which fuse or relay to check
#17
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Juan, if you just had that wheel bearing installed, did they get the wheel bearing installed correctly. There is an inside and outside edge to the bearing and if you put it in backwards, the toothed gear inside the bearing does not match up to the ABS sensor, leading to the fault code.
It is not a fuse/relay problem as there is only 1 fuse for the ABS system, so, if that fuse blew, you would have no ABS issue and therefore a multitude of codes.
It is not a fuse/relay problem as there is only 1 fuse for the ABS system, so, if that fuse blew, you would have no ABS issue and therefore a multitude of codes.
#19
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Juan, there is no real check. Even with the bearing out, you have to look for the markings on the bearing to see. The easiest way to check to see if you have a complete failure is to have the car put on a computer as you drive it around and then watch all 4 wheel speed sensors. If the one wheel is not outputting anything, then you park the car, leave the computer monitoring things and then you pull the sensor and pass a screw driver near the end of the sensor. If you see the computer respond to the screw driver, then that confirms the bearing is either bad or put in backwards.