Window does not work
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Ruben, Since the computer controls the window, let me look as to what all is going on. But, odds are, the switch in the door is what is giving you heartaches. That is the common problem. This is especially prone to happen if you have recently hit the button hard or you got the switch wet from driving with the window down/left down during a rain storm.
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Patrick, first, check that fuse #60 is good (20 amp fuse) and also fuse #91 is good (10 amp fuse). Next remove the bezel that the window switches are located on. With that accessible, look at the plug on the back. Look for a green wire (in position #13 on the plug). Now, using a scrap piece of wire (22 gauge or same relative size), place one end of the wire in next to the green wire and touch the other end to a bare metal spot on the car (make sure the key is in the ignition and turned to the RUN position as if you were going to roll up the door). Does the window go up? If yes, then this confirms a bad switch. Replace the switch. If not, continue.
At this point, you will need to remove the door skin so you can access the window motor assembly. You will find an 8 pin plug attached to this assembly. For all the checks, unless other wise stated, make sure to leave this plug connected and the ignition key is in the RUN position. All checks are referenced to the black wire (pin #8) on the plug (ie, the black lead of a multimeter should be connected to the black wire). First, check that you have 12 VDC to the orange/yellow wire (pin #7), the green/white wire (pin #2), and the white/green wire (pin #6). If not, write me and I will give you further instructions on what to check. Now do a resistance check on the green wire (pin #3 - up direction) and then the blue wire (pin #4 - down direction). Both of these should drop to less than 5 ohms when the button is depressed. If they don't, then you have a problem with the wiring between the switch and the controller.
If all of the indictions to this point have been as I have said, then you are looking at a bad motor assembly and it needs to be replaced.
At this point, you will need to remove the door skin so you can access the window motor assembly. You will find an 8 pin plug attached to this assembly. For all the checks, unless other wise stated, make sure to leave this plug connected and the ignition key is in the RUN position. All checks are referenced to the black wire (pin #8) on the plug (ie, the black lead of a multimeter should be connected to the black wire). First, check that you have 12 VDC to the orange/yellow wire (pin #7), the green/white wire (pin #2), and the white/green wire (pin #6). If not, write me and I will give you further instructions on what to check. Now do a resistance check on the green wire (pin #3 - up direction) and then the blue wire (pin #4 - down direction). Both of these should drop to less than 5 ohms when the button is depressed. If they don't, then you have a problem with the wiring between the switch and the controller.
If all of the indictions to this point have been as I have said, then you are looking at a bad motor assembly and it needs to be replaced.
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Patrick, place the igntion switch to the RUN position (can have the motor runnign or not, doesn't matter). Now, one window at a time, press and hold the switch in the down position till the window is all the way down and then continue to hold it for another 10 seconds. Now, raise the window, holding the switch in the up position the whole way and then once the window is fully shut, continue holding the button in the up position for an additional 10 seconds. Repeat for all windows. After this, normal window function will be restored.
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