A code for the MAP sensor was showing so after looking under the hood I find the harness end has been eaten away by a rodent. Upon further inspection it looks like this is the main engine wiring harness? If so that would be a lot of work and $$ to replace. It doesn't look like there's enough wire left on the end to splice it back together. Is it possible to get just the harness end pigtail where it connects to the MAP sensor and then I can splice that back into the rest of the wiring?

 

The best course would be to get a used one that has been cut off with sufficient wiring to splice. A good source of parts is to reach out to Dr Dome. He is a forum member that parts out x-types and see if he has what you need. Call or text 484-903-4813.

 

Evan97, your other option is you can pull the plug off and tear down the plug (there should be a red bar on the inside of the plug that you can remove and then the pins should slide out the back of the plug, you can then find new generic pins at your local car parts shop to be able to solder on new wires). Once you get the plug apart, you can add in new sections of wire (say 8 inches worth on each terminal) and then you can butt splice the wires together to the factory wiring. Now, with this being said, you can do what most do and simply wrap it up in tape or take some of the heat shrink material you find and insulate the wires. This is going to be good for a few years, but then you are going to start having problems with these connections as they will have started to corrode. What I recommend you use is what is called "Raychem WCSF-050". This is heat shrink on steroids. The big benefit of the Raychem stuff is that it has a glue on the inside that once you shrink it down and get this glue warm, it will seal things and not let water get in. So, essentially it will make the joining of 2 wires like it was only 1 wire (from an insulation point of view, still need a good joining of the copper wires either through a butt splice or soldering the wires together). If you are worried about the insulation breaking down because of the underhood temps and environment, DON'T. I use this stuff at work to survive a nuclear reactor meltdown (literally, I work at a power plant). This stuff will yawn at under hood conditions. yes, the Raychem costs a bit more than your local parts store stuff, but it will be money well spent. We are only talking like $5 for a 3 foot piece of the Raychem. So, it is not ungodly expensive, but its price will surprise you a little bit when you think about it. The big thing I will say is you want to use no piece smaller than say 4 inches long (1 inch for the butt splice, 1-1/2 inches of overhang on each end). You want to make sure you have enough of the glue surface touching the insulation to make a good seal. You can tell that you have a good seal by simply looking at the end of the Raychem. As you are shrinking it down, you will see a little orange "donut" appear at the end. This is where the glue has turned molten and is getting squeezed out the end. You get that on both ends, you will be golden. If you are worried about applying too much heat via a heat gun, it is extremely difficult to do to this stuff. You will see your wiring insulation undergoing damage before you hurt this stuff.

If you have questions about the Raychem, let me know.

 

If ya can't find a pigtail FedX me the one you've got. I've dealt with this often enough, and am good enough with a hot stick to solder ya some wire extensions on what you have left, and throw some
heat shrink over the top. Won't be beautiful, and I don't have any ORANGE wire (nor have I ever seen any for sale) , but it'll work. or at least hold ya till you CAN find a pigtail.
Without the factory picks (and replacement pins, and the RIGHT crimp tool..) I generally do NOT try and de-pin a connector.

Thermo, where can I get some of this Raychem WCSF 050 ...like maybe a 55 gallon barrel /s

 

Here:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/RAYCHEM-WCS...IAAOSwG0hZ4ObY

For that price, that is a good deal. Probably more than most people would use in their lifetime, but never hurts to have some extra.

 

Thank you. Ordered/ Received. I think I'm good on Nuclear-rated heat-shrink till at least 2075.

If they decide to rewire Chernobyl or Fukushima, I'm ready to go.