Help! My 2004 2.2 diesel won't start. All pre-ignition is fine but when you turn the key to fire it turns, and dies whilst fluttering the speedo and rev counter and it sounds like locking and unlocking the doors. I've read through lots of forum threads and have changed fuses F5 F7 F12 and F32 (I think, whichever fuses are to do with feel and coils) except the big one (F95?) I just wonder if the doors locking and unlocking and fluttering instrument panel sounded familiar to anyone? I'd like an idea what it could be before the mechanic arrives and does six unnecessary costly things before figuring out what it needs.
many thanks folks. I truly love my beautiful car and would rather repair and rescue than replace. Appreciate any guidance. Jo

 

Hi Jo,
Not sure of your location, but if you are northern hemisphere and copping some of the heavy storms I have been seeing recently on the news, it is likely darn cold there at the moment.
Just wondering if your car battery voltage is collapsing under starting load.
Have you got a multi-meter that you can quickly measure the voltage on your battery terminal posts?
You should be measuring about 12.6 to 12.8 volts with car turned off.

Next, turn ignition on (without starting car) and turn on the headlights to see if the battery is sagging to a low voltage - if you are measuring the voltage dropping to anything lower than perhaps 12.2 to 12.3 volts with that load now drawing from it, then the battery might be showing signs of a weak cell. If you then try to start the car while measuring the battery voltage, you might also see battery voltage tumbling way down to under 10.5 volts. That likely will be triggering the car's electronics modules to falter in the manner you are seeing.

If the terminal post voltages are good, measure on the battery terminal clamps to see if you detect a voltage drop on the terminal clamps under testing load - a contaminated/corroded clamping surface to the post will create voltage drop and heat due to resistance.

Now our cars also have some issues with failing high current battery leads, the cables look OK but under their plastic insulation they can be corroded and lack the 'meat' to deliver the required current to their destination.
Can be a bad earth cable or a bad positive cable that goes to alternator and onto the starter.
A bad earth cable or earth connection may give you this effect.
A bad battery post terminal connection for either positive or earth connection may give you your effects.
A bad positive cable to the alternator will not likely give you the instrument cluster effects.

 

Hi, H2o2
​​​and thanks for the helpful and informative reply.
my apologies. - I an in Northern England, and yes, we have been experiencing some winter weather. It was maybe -3 when I tried to start the car. I probably should have included that pertinent piece of information. Anyway we're still covered in snow so the mechanic can't get to me and I'm thoroughly enjoying not having to drive in it.
I do have an altimeter stashed somewhere so will check the battery and work my way through the list as best I can until the snow has cleared and the mechanic can get here.
I'll post again with an update/outcome..
Thanks again, much appreciated. Jo