Hi all
I am new to the site and Jaguars, so please bear with me
I have just bought a 2006 X type with the 2.1 ltr Mondeo petrol V6. The car drives fine most of the time, but sometimes has a bit of a fit and brings the check light on. If you
clear the codes, the car continues to run fine. It also pops from the intake intermittently at idle. It does not seem to affect anything, but its a strange noise. I have been reading
everything I can about this, but no one seems to have come up with why this is happening.
I have bought a cheap code reader/scanner and I made the codes come up revving the car in my driveway. I will post pictures of all the codes below ( I hope it works)
Any help would be great. I would like to get to the bottom of this so at least somewhere there can be a definitive solution

 

Hi Ttotired,
Welcome to the forum.
I too have the same version car as yours, mine being the slightly earlier 2005 production.
I see you are nearing 100,000Km, the typical time you should be renewing your spark plugs anyway. Chances are that they are pretty shot, well worn down and possibly going higher internal resistance as well.
Start with a new set (they should already be pre-gapped for the correct gap by the manufacturer).

You will end up having to remove the intake manifold to access the rear coil packs and spark plugs, so be careful with the plastic vacuum hoses (which are very stiff) as they can put undue pressure on the nylon 'T' junctions in the vacuum lines that lead off to the brake servo etc.
It is very easy to damage (fracture) the junctions.

Rough idle and various misfire codes can also be created by various subtle air leaks into the intake manifold on the X-Types, so a trick to locate any of those is to spray some 'engine start' (Your in Aussie so pick up some "Start Ya *******") and start spraying that carefully around various fittings and joints that are present in the intake and vacuum lines, a leak will draw in the engine start spray and you may hear the engine subtly change RPM.

The 'O'Rings that reside between the intake manifold and cylinder heads can also be troublesome, there is an upper and lower set fitted to the intermediate intake assembly. So while you have the intake manifold off, you might want to check for evidence of any leakage bypassing those O-rings.
Let us know how you get on with your initial investigations and we'll take it from there.

 

I am just now making a smoke machine to smoke the intake to check to check for a vacuum leak. I just bought the car and the previous owner said he had given up on trying to fix it. He was paying a number of garages to fix it but none has. I am assuming at this stage the plugs have been changed as he said a coil has been changed. I am at the very start of this so I am expecting some fun

 

There can be air leaks created by a faulty O ring that is on the IMT (intake manifold tuning) valve located on right side of manifold (about 6cm diameter round black plastic assembly). Our 2.1 engines only have one IMT, whereas most images you will find are of the 2.5 and 3.0 engines that have a different manifold and two IMTs.
Also the hose from the PCV valve to intake manifold can get a subtle spit underneath.

I assume the throttle body has been cleaned, butterfly edge is free of crud, and you should use the appropriate cleaners for the MAF and MAP sensors as well....they can get pretty gunged up which sends bad data to the ECM.

How does the throttle respond when you just pick it up off idle....is it sensitive or is there a gap in response to the beginning of rotation?

 

By the way, the Jag version of the engine has very little in common with a Mondeo engine.
The closest variant of this engine was used in one production model of Mazda, but he upper valve gear is also completely different.
Jaguar added a lot of additional development to that engine before it was introduced into their production.

Don't believe those that would knock the car calling it a Mondeo in disguise, apart for it sharing the basic monocoque, they are a different beast in most ways.
I am sure once you get it running properly and a few miles under your belt, you will feel the significant differences between the marquees, not to mention the X-Type is a far nicer environment to be in.

 

I have 2 o rings for the IMT valve. They said there was 2 o rings that are a common failure but I didnt know where they went. I think you are right as I only have 1 IMT valve. I cant say anything with certain about what repairs have or havnt been done. The previous owner just said he had spent a fair bit trying to fix it and the last garage started talking about rebuilding the engine to try and fix it
I do appreciate your comments, thank you

 

Love the car, drives really nice although I do feel its underpowered. That said, the engine issue might have something to do with that. We will see how I go fixing this

 

I went parts shopping
I bought 2 new coils, A new set of spark plugs, a new MAF sensor and a battery hold down clamp (it was missing) and new upper and lower manifold seals
I put the new MAF sensor in and the engine hated it
No codes, but it sounded like it was missing on 1 cylinder really badly and back firing through the intake, bang, bang, bang
I put the old one back in and it returned to its old normal.
I will try again tomorrow with the other new parts and see what happens
I stupidly forgot to look at the MAF readings to see what the difference was, my thoughts are the new one was better but the engine was trying to re adjust.
I am also going to try resetting the ECU by disconnecting the battery and touching the terminals together
Just have to make sure I have the radio code
Not really into throwing parts at a problem, but I was going to do a swap over of parts to try and move the fault and thought I might as well change them.
I will swap the injectors from 1 side to the other just in case

 

The 2.1 is a little under powered, but be assured it is a wiling engine and does like to get into its work.
I tend to leave mine in sports mode driving around town, as that just keeps the revs up for any darting you might need to do.

As for power cycling ECU, you probably only need to pull and rest F19 (10A Fuse) and F36 (5A Fuse), which are both in the Power Distribution Fuse Box under the bonnet (passenger side).
Hopefully just doing that will not compromise your radio security code retention.

What brand and model of spark plugs have been fitted to your car?

 

I dont know what plugs are in it at present. I can see that the 3 front coils are NGK, not sure about the others
I will find out more later today once I commence surgery.
After I did the swap of the MAF sensor and swapped it back, I used the car to go to a car club meeting, while on the way home, it threw up a check light
for lean on bank 1. It has done that a few times as well
Anyway, might have some better ideas or discoveries after today

 

I see you have a 58 Austin Lancer in the stable.........do you have that on the road or is it a restoration project?
I have a 63 Cambridge which has the 1622 B series engine, column change 4 speed (probably in reverse gate to your 1500 earlier box).......bringing that home shortly to go back through it to tidy it up again.

As for spark plugs for your X....I fitted the NGK TR6AP-13E plugs in mine which are readily available locally.
TPS sensor can get worn out, hence my earlier question about whether the engine responded properly to throttle body movement just off idle.
Check it is tracking OK, if not let me know as I have found a suitable substitute for just the TPS, rather than you having to buy a whole throttle body as per Jaguar minimum parts assembly.
Bad TPS can end up throwing check engine and also gearbox errors in extreme circumstances.

 

I have 2 austins actually, 1 on the road (That continually overheats and has piston slap after 3 engine changes) the other I bought just to get a boot hinge (it was cheaper to do that than trying to get one from the UK)

After I change out the parts I have bought, I will see where I go with the engine. I need to at least get the intakes off so I can see what has been done previously



Always thought they should have used this car for harry potter because of the front trim, then one night I went out to the garage and saw this

 

So todays fun went like this
Started taking the intake off, 1 of the bolts that hold it on wouldn't undo, it just kept spinning. The metal nut thing in the plastic of the lower manifold ended up coming off with the bolt
so I have that to repair. I cant get the small vacuum line to come off from near the throttle plate. It should come off by pushing it in and lifting up on the collar, but no.
Anyway, got the manifold off and tipped it over towards the side. I think the previous owner has changed all the coils as they are all NGK ones.
I started to remove the fuel rail and the injectors, someone has broken the plugs on a couple of them so they superglued the plugs onto the injectors. That was fun, but I got them.
I was going to just swap them from side to side, but then I though it would be a good idea to get them flow tested, well what do you
know, number 5 was flowing about 1/2 of the rest and number 3 wasnt good either.
Might be onto this
So off to a parts shop for a reco or new set. Nope, didnt even list them. Ok off to the jag dealer, nope, no stock. So they gave me 3 second
hand ones (untested) when I say gave, that was with me giving the $50 bucks each for them. I went back to the place where I flow tested the original ones and one of
the second hand ones was stuffed, but the other 2 seem ok, so all flowing within about 10% of each other.
I decided to clean them now as it was getting a bit late to continue doing the plugs and stuff, so I bought an ultrasonic cleaner and some fluid and cleaned them. Amazing amount of dirt come off them.
So part two tomorrow.

 

Well done.....Keep up the good fight.
Looking forward to part 2....... ;-)

 

This will be long, but looks like I got it.
I have driven the car a little after I got it together this morning and all looks pretty good. The MAF sensor reading still bothers me a bit.
Anyway I will start from the start. As I said above, I only just bought this car. The seller was straight up and said about the noise and that he had taken the car
to a number of garages that had not been able to fix it even after changing some parts. He had been told by 2 of them that the issue was somewhere in the
engine and to fix it, they would need to remove and strip the engine down to find and repair the fault. With this, he decided to sell the car. This is where I came in.

So you can see above the fault codes I was getting as well as an occasional code of P0171 System to lean bank 1
My initial plan was to look for a vacuum leak, so I constructed a smoke machine to put smoke into the intake track and see if I can see it coming out somewhere. There was none.
I had already bought 2 O rings for the IMT valve, so I changed it (only needing 1 on my engine). That was on the advice from the dealer, it achieved nothing except it was now excluded as a potential fault, no real harm.

My next plan was to remove the intake manifold and swap everything from bank 1 to bank 2, put it all together and see if I moved the fault. I also was going to replace the MAF sensor based on
what I had seen on the net about 100,000K cars and what the sensor would look like. So while going to the dealer to get the MAF sensor, I decided I might as well get a couple
of coils and new plugs etc as I have said above as there looked to be an issue on 2 cylinders and the cost of the parts vs my time running around made it seem worthwhile as well as longevity
of the repair. I changed the MAF sensor (because it was easy) and the engine hated it, so I put the old one back in until I changed the other stuff.
Whoever was doing the repairs on this engine needs a punch in the head.
What I found as I took it all apart (to me) was shameful and even if an apprentice had done it, it was rubbish and showed no pride in their work. Almost all the intake bolts were loose except for 1 where it was that
tight, it had pulled the nut thing out of the lower manifold. 2 of the retainers for the fuel injector plugs were broken and glued on. The main harness behind the manifold was not
bolted on. The battery hold down was missing and a few other things as well. To me, it had the look of an engine that had been thrown together to get rid of a car (or the customer).

Anyway, I removed the injectors and decided to get them flow tested which turned out to be a wise move as Number 5 wasnt alive, it was stuffed. I could only get second hand injectors, so I got 3 of them, which 1 also was no good. I went out and bought an ultrasonic cleaner and gave them all a good clean, put new seals on them, put new seals on the lower intake after repairing the nut thing and screwed it all down.
I then removed all the coils and plugs. They all looked brand new. I replaced the plugs anyway (They were Champion Iridium and the one from number 5 was almost like it just came out of the box. 5 definitely was not working much) and put all the coils back. I have not used the 2 I bought. I put the new MAF sensor in, cleared the ECU, finished putting it all together and started it up.
It did not start first crank, it took a couple of goes, but I expected that as it had to refill the fuel rail etc.
Got it running at it sounded terrific, no popping and quite sharp on the throttle response, so I took it for a drive. at first, fantastic, I took it on the highway to get
some speed, drove it around a bit, then headed up a long steep hill. It started to splutter a little, no codes or check light, but this car seems to like better than 1/4 of a tank and it was close to that, so
I went and filled it up. When I went to leave the petrol station, it went horrible, coughing and spluttering, didnt want to rev over about 1200 RPM. I limped it around a corner and pulled over
thinking that maybe a hose had popped of, but no, all good. I looked at my scanner and the reading on the new MAF sensor was jumping around all over the place. I unplugged the sensor and I was able to drive home. I put the old MAF sensor back in, went for a drive and all seems good.
I am confident that I have fixed it. The main fault comes down to number 3 and 5 injectors, but especially number 5. This issue with the MAF sensor still bothers me and I will talk to the dealer on Monday about it and see where that goes.
Time will tell now
Here are the pictures of it apart and the PID readings after driving it for about 10 minutes
Thanks Mark for your input.

 

Well done Ttotired......what a great result for you and the car.
Yes when you buy a second (or more) hand car, you are buying its history ...good and bad.
The spinning brass inserts of the intermediate manifold assembly are a real pain...I had two to repair on mine.

ECM and gear change points will settle in with some running as it learns the local conditions and your motor's preferred settings.
Keep in touch.