Thermo or anyone's help is appreciated sincerely:

I'm not a mechanic so I'm just competent to know a few things about whats going on. I can try some of the usual suspects if not all. I do have a mechanic that can help but I'd like to know more of why this keeps popping up.

When I turn key, engine doesn't turn over I get a tick sound. The service engine light is on, abs light on, brake light on, battery light on.
The battery light and service engine light have remained on since I've had car.

Here's the checklist add anything else I need to check before getting mechanic:

Dead Battery
My headlamps worked, radio worked, a/c worked.Mechanic replaced this already this year for $140.00. I do have residue on positive terminal I lightly cleaned this a couple of weeks ago. Will go buy some cleaner and anti-corrosion spray today and get to work.
Bad Igntion Switch
Had it replaced a few months back when the car went dead after I did a gas fill up.The switch was $120.00 mechanic installed at same time with new battery.Bad Starter Connection
Not sure will check and tap with hammer later. I will need help on locating it. Will check the manual.Check Your Fuses
Will check

 

Kris, first, place a multimeter across the battery and then attempt to start the car. Does the voltage remain above 11.0 VDC? If no, then you have either a bad battery or a battery that is not fully charged (recharge the battery and then reattempt, if same problem, bad battery).

Next, move the red lead off of the battery post and connect it to the body of the car and attempt to start the car. does the voltage jump above 1.000 VDC? If yes, bad ground cable, replace. If no, you more than likely have a bad positive cable coming off of the battery. If the new cable will not fix your issue, then you have a bad starter.

Also, take a look at all the major connections and if you can see corrosion, clean it off and see if that helps.

Wish you luck.

 

K noob question -- any clue what socket to use to take off the terminals because my actual good toolbox got borrowed (read friendly stole) a while back so I'm running on minimal tools. I'm going to go to Wal-mart tonight and pick up whatever I need so I can diagnose it before getting the mechanic involved.

So far Items Needed:

-Socket wrench size (no clue which) had to borrow one before (and good news that guy just left for work, on a boat)
-Anti-Corrosion spray
-Corrosion cleaner? Or just use baking soda and water or coke?

Good thing is I do have a self starter batteries so I can plug it up and jump myself off (dont know how good it will be if its really really weak plus its cold tonight) I do have a multimeter (thank god your post from years ago on my expo served me well) to bad I dunno how to use it and I'll read a faq.

 

Kris, when it comes to the multimeter, keep it on a VDC setting (the dial in the center will have these letters or a letter V with a straight line above it). From there, as long as you are not touching two wires at the same time and somehow manage to also touch the metal part of the probe tips together too, you will be just fine. The big thing to keep in mind is if you see a negative number, all that is saying is you have your leads backwards (ie, the red lead is on the ground wire and the black lead is on the power wire, should be the red lead on the power wire, black lead on the ground wire).

As for tools, get yourself an adjustable wrench and that should do you good. I believe the battery terminals are 10mm nuts. So, get yourself a 10mm wrench and you will be just fine.

 

Ok, I got a new socket set from Auto-Zone and also got some battery cleaner for the corrosion. I'll take pics today and post but i feel that the gremlin of me needing a new belt is coming up as a possible problem also.

 

Ok Thermo after some elbow grease from an angel lol I finally got the terminals off. The negative cable and terminal are in good condition and I've sprayed cleaner on it and will do a 2nd round of cleaning and washing off followed by greasing it.

The positive oh gosh lol, corrosion hell. I won't be able to take pictures but it appears as the corrosion got all around the cable and terminal BADLY. The cable appears semi-burnt and black and charred and even the plastic housing a couple of inches away is (only the cover but I assume the cable is also). The actual battery has a indentation from the burn about a quarter of an inch in like it melted.

Funny thing is I took a look under the donor car and its terminals are worse (but the dang car running fine) so I'm cleaning both tonight. So much fun lol. This brings up the next question - is it feasible for me to install a OEM or Walmart or any other Top post Terminal?

 

Ok in Test Mode it shows constant 11.8 volts. I'm gonna try to charge/ jump and see what happens. Positive cable cleaned up but again looks horribly bad.

 

Ok getting 13.1 volts now but still getting one tick from engine bay.

 

Kris, replacing the battery cable isn't too hard of a job. As long as you can get a cable that will go to all the points needed, then go for it.

 

Yea - Unfortunately I won't have time I'd prefer to do it myself but I do need a working car for work. My mechanic is gonna swing by. I miss the old expedition I could easily replace anything non major in that.

Thermo, I was wondering to the right of battery, is that the starter or alternator stashed off? I could see to the left the belt running lateral and I assume that would be the alternator but the right I assume is the starter. Haven't had a chance to look at the technician guide yet.

 

Kris, if you are standing in front of the car, to the left of the battery box, the belt you see is for the water pump (yes, the water pump is on the back side of the engine, not on the front like every other car is). The electrical piece you see near the tranny (behind the battery box) is the starter. The alternator is behind the passenger side head light.

 

LOL - talk about brilliant (cough)

 

So far the price rat keeps eating my cheese. My mechanic has swapped batteries, I assume also replaced my positive battery cabling (not whole thing I guess just the main one), and will be adding a new belt to the alternator. He originally diagnosed problem as the alternator was over charging the electrical system.

Today he pointed out that the car audio system (stock by the way) is pulling high voltage (is that correct?) and he said it appears the wires were spliced. He didn't go into detail so I'll have to wait till I see him and actually get an explanation (hes a faster talker)

So I guess how in the world is a factory system gonna burn out that easily? Keep in mind most of the door speakers do not play but they do play (crappily)