I have a 2002 x type. Fuse # 82 for the alternator keeps blowing. I have already replaced the alternator and the battery. What else could it be and how do I find out? Please help.

 

Kimberly, when you say that the fuse is blowing, does it blow as soon as you put it in and have the key in the RUN position or can you drive the car for a little bit, then the fuse blows? This can affect where to start troubleshooting. Also, do you notice of the fuse tends to blow when the tranny is placed in reverse (manual only) or when you attempt to turn the steering wheel (I know it sounds funny, trust me with this). This can help narrow down which circuit is your problem child.

Assuming the fuse is blowing as soon as you put it in, what I need you to do is to first remove fuse #82 and leave the spot empty. Next, get your hands on the alternator and remove the 4 pin plug from the alternator. Next, you need to access the plugs on the back of the instrument cluster and remove the one that has a green/red wire in pin #24 spot (there's 2 big plugs on the back of the instrument cluster, you only need to pull the one). Finally, if you have a manual tranny, you will need to pull the plug for the reverse switch. With these three things disconnected, install a new fuse into the #82 spot. Does the fuse blow? If yes, you have a wiring problem with the car and unless you are really good with wiring, it will be money well spent to have someone else fix this for you. If the fuse did not blow, reconnect the plug for the instrument cluster. Did the fuse blow now? If yes, then you have either a bad instrument cluster or a problem with your variable assist steering servo. If you want to troubleshoot it further than this, let me know. If the fuse did not blow after reconnecting the instrument cluster, reconnect the alternator. If the fuse blows now, you have a bad alternator (I know you just put one in, but stranger things have happened). If the fuse did not blow after reconnecting the alternator, you will need to get a small piece of wire to jumper between two pins on a plug. With that piece of wire, I want you to jumper between the two pins of the plug for the reverse switch. Did the fuse blow? If no, then your problem is a grounded reverse switch. If yes, then you have a wiring problem with the reverse lights (again, if you are not familiar with wiring, this is probably money well spent paying someone to fix this for you).

If the fuse doesn't blow immediately after installing a new fuse with the ignition switch in the RUN position, then I would say that you would probably be better off taking it to a shop and having them play with it. In this case, you have an intermittent fault and unless you know what you are doing, it can lead to a lot of hair being pulled out of your head.

 

Here is an update on my information:
The first time the fuse blew was after a two hour trip... it was fine that night, but when I got in the car in the am, the fuse was blown and the battert light was on. The car would still run. After replacing the battery and the alternator, and the fuse (did not know it was the fuse to begin with, missed it on initial inspection.) I was able to drive the car for a few days. Was in town running errands and the fuse blew...replaced it twice just to get us home... the car also started missing at the time. Found out the missing was a hole in the pcv hose. Fixed that and the car ran fine again. Went to the coast again...same two hour drive as before...car did fine. Got in the car the next morning and the fuse was blown again. Replaced the fuse and made it 1 mile down the road and it blew again while turning onto a side street. Went back home, changed the fuse to a slightly larger fuse (at roomates husbands urging) and it has not blown since, but I don't want to just put a bandaid on the problem...I want to fix it. Please help if u can. By the way, it is an automatic. Should I run the tests that u spoke of earlier?...unpluging the wires and such?

 

Kimberly, I want you to try something for me. Find a long parking lot that is empty (doing this early in the morning at a local mall should do the trick). Now, while driving very slow (5 mph or so), to a large number of sharp S turns back and forth (think of driving drunk, but exaggerated). If the fuse blows (with the correct rated fuse installed), then that is pretty much confirming a bad steering assist solenoid. After that, you more than likely have a wire bundle that has gotten too near to something warm and you have damaged the insulation on a wire and it is making periodic contact with the motor/body of the car, leading to a power wire grounding out. Having a car shop fix this for you will be your better choice.

 

Thank you for your previous responses. However, the test did not work. I replaced the fuse with the correct 10 amp fuse, completed your test over and over again...nothing. As a matter of fact, it has not blown the fuse at all and I drove it over 50 miles today, in town and on the highway. Could having a larger fuse in it caused it to blow the solenoid and I not know it. It does not seem as easy to steer, but that could also be my imagination wanting this to be the answer. The only other thing that the car has been doing is shifting hard when I get on the highway. Is this connected some how?????????????? I know that I am grasping at straws here. Please let me know. With my sincere thanks...kimberly

 

Kimberly, as for the stiffness of the steering, you should be able to have the car stopped and turn the wheel with little effort from lock to lock. I would say use the "1 finger test". Essentially, using a single finger, turn the steering wheel from lock to lock. If you can do it with a single finger and not feel like you are going to break that finger, then the servo is working.

It is possible that if the servo was starting to fail, it would be blowing the fuses and then once it completely fails, to not blow the fuse at all. I would say to take the car to a shop and have them give the steering a once over if you have a problem turning the steering wheel using the single finger method. Odds are, they are going to find the servo is bad. But, they would be better able to handle troubleshooting this than I can.

 

Thank you for all you have done. I will let you know what finally happens. You have been a big help.

 

I tried your test and I have to use two fingers with alot of pressure to move the wheel back and forth. I think you may have found something! Thank you for all of your input. I will let you know what happens at the shop.

 

What would the name of that replacement part be?

 

The part in question would be called a "variable assist servo". I would also have them check the wiring associated with this servo just to make sure that you don't have a problem that won't be fixed if they put a new servo in.