Good evening and a happy Halloween to you all.

My latest quest has been to find a way to connect my phone to the stereo for listening to music and for hands free calls. Looked into the various Parrot systems, but thought they were a bit pricey and you never know what collateral damage may be done during installation.

Well my best answer seems to be a blue tooth fm transmitter. It plugs into the cigarette lighter socket and links to your phone in your pocket, then transmits calls and music to the car's stereo.

I've just received the Flexsmart X2 from Accessory Genie via Amazon. In the UK it costs £47.99 and as a non intrusive media carrier that you can take from car to car it seems to work a treat.
It's got a long flexible mount so it can escape the confines of the ash tray, and linked to my Samsung android phone no problem. Sound is good my end, and clear, if slightly faint to the other caller but not bad.
Looks a bit too good to be true but is actually doing what it says it should and looks smart too.

If it falls to pieces next week you will of course be the first to hear my rant.

OK still to go: find a nice walnut steering wheel, and at some point, probably next year, get that bonnet checked out.
Last month I got 245 miles from a full 61 litre tank, about 17 miles to the gallon. But they were very comfortable miles.

 

Happy New Year, and a new common fault has cropped up. Yesterday the engine management light lit up, and the fault code identified itself as 1647.
We've been having a lot of rain over here and it appears that a ECU connected to the exhaust emissions (lambda) sensor, stupidly located under the front wing, may have got a soaking.

I've been told that if the car can dry out (fat chance) the fault light may go off by itself, meanwhile my fuel consumption will be suffering as the computer sends false info to the fuel management system.
I gather that this is not uncommon.

Meanwhile it's booked in for a look on Tuesday, my local mechanic seems confident that he can save the connections if they are corroded and the ECU itself hasn't been knackered. Luckily he also works on rally cars and assures me he can make that area of exposed loom fully weather proof. We'll see.

One area I'm not sure about is if there is supposed to be an undertray in place there, I understood that the car had not been messed around with, and am not sure if the obvious exposure to the elements is a result of poor design or a very poor service.

On a positive note I was involved in a non fault accident before Christmas.
I've been offered a generous payment to a body shop of my choice, and should be able to divert some of the funds to getting the bubbling bonnet paint looked at. OK my rear bumper may have to have a respray rather than a new replacement, but as the painter said, it ain't gonna go rusty, but we can't say the same for the bonnet.

So to come, see if there is a solution to the exposed ECU and wiring, find out what is the cause of so many bubbling bonnet edges. And the costs.
This thread ain't dead yet!

 

Unfortunately that's always been the case no matter what product you refer to, just glad you posted it though as my nerve was beginning to waver over the 2003 130K 2.0D I'm contemplating!

 

I always agreed with that quote too, however there do seem be some common issues that it's good to be aware of. My car does seem to be going through the lot. None terminal, just frustrating.

Just ordered parts from Berkshire Jag Components.
Part No C2S51801 Lambda sensor (front bank upstream)£97 plus VAT
and the brake cable from the lever to the equaliser for a not unreasonable ££12.50 plus VAT. Using genuine jag bits just in case of compatibility issues with the sensor err sensitivity(?).

Awaiting replacement handbrake lever in post, I'll get a mechanic to fit that, but the lambda sensor might be accessible from under the battery tray. I'll have a go at fitting that and get the ecu waterproofed when it goes in for the brakes.
Then it's off to the bodyshop for the insurance claim and bonnet sorting.

Side note, I used fully synthetic oil in the service 5000 miles ago, on the dipstick it's already looking brown and horrible. 10000 mile service interval... my ar$e, I reckon oil changes need to be done every 6k. Also with the damp and frosts occasionally the door locks are sticking again, after initial panic freed off with WD40. Fuel consumption after sensor failure went down to 9.8 mpg around town. My wallet quite literally cried.

 

Hi Anditover, happy new year, Glad to hear you are alive and kicking and continuing this fantastic post!thank you

Sorry to hear of the accident but relieved to hear you are okay and the guy is settling to your liking

Re the locks, I was warned off the WD40 route as there is a silicone type dry powder lubricant that is on the market these days!

Graphite Lubricant | eBay

have you got that walnut steering wheel yet? I've looked but gave up on many wanting far too much!!

Am away to do my oil shortly with a home made ramp and I''ll keep an eye out.

Cheers, stu

 

Hi Stuart, thanks for the support, the walnut wheel is firmly on the back burner until the bonnet/bumper gets done beginning of February, and the handbrake/lambda sensor middle of next week.

For the record, the hand brake cable appears to be adjustable. There is a rectangular cross section which the rear cables equaliser runs along held on with a nut at the back, with threads running the length of it (on the outside of the sides furthest apart).

It's obviously adjustable, and if the old one is the same I'd be very interested to know why everywhere that I've been to with the car has been unable to adjust the handbrake travel. Maybe the part was superceded by the bit I just got, if so, there's the cheap genuine Jag solution to all the sloppy levers out there.

Today I attempted to fit the Lambda Sensor, and failed. Getting to it is straight forward
Battery box out
Engine cover off
Top of air box and filter out
Undo the 2 screws in the bottom of the air box to separate the intake
Remove bonnet catch and slide air intake forward
Unplug spark plugs and move the loom out of the way
Unplug the grey connector next to the battery tray
Spot sensor inconveniently below a immobile plastic coolant pipe deep in a heat shield.

Got my 22mm sensor socket on attached 3/8" ratchet....nothing.
Attached 1/2" to 3/8" adapter, and 3 foot breaker bar. The socket lost purchase and I may have rounded the hex on the sensor.
Swearing had no effect, tried once again, same thing, gave up before I ruined it completely, and booked it in to a garage next Wednesday.

Maybe should have done it on a warm engine, but really didn't need my skinned knuckles cauterised. At least my DT is back together after replacing the steering head bearings, but I really don't want to risk it in this weather...it's too clean.

 

The jag went in for the work on the lambda sensor and the handbrake this afternoon. I opened the package from X-Type Parts expecting to see a nice beige handbrake lever and it was black, a bit rusty and didn't have the right self adjusting mechanism. Doh!

Anyway it might be a blessing in disguise. With the new genuine cable from Jaguar having an adjustable nut behind the equaliser to the rear brakes, which I can now confirm the old original cable DID NOT HAVE, then it looks like Jaguar did address the perennial issue of vertical handbrake levers.
I can't stress this enough, the part only costs £15.00 from dealers.

Fingers crossed that I didn't muller the lambda sensor.

 

Well I didn't muller the lambda much, but the cable from Jaguar was the wrong one.
Currently in touch with my local jag dealer as to why the listed part doesn't fit.

For early X-Types with the auto cable tensioner Jaguar list part no: C2S42567. This is the wrong part. By coincidence the wrong lever sent by the breakers fits it, and that appears to have come from a later model without the troublesome self adjuster.

In the end the mechanic fashioned a collar to take up the 2 inches of slack in the cable. Lever travel/biting point is now very acceptable.
Still going to see if there is a proper solution, as very good as it is at the moment, proper adjustment is impossible, unless further shims are made up to slot along the cable.
At least the lambda sensor was right, is working, and the ecu under the wing has been sealed with silicone, and further protected by a piece of mud guard stuck in front of it.

Can't help feeling somewhat downbeat that 2 out of 3 parts sourced from specialists, including a dealership, were wrong. What hope is there eh?

Anyway next week the old bus goes to the bodyshop. Christ no more surprises please.

Post Script...
Regarding the cable.
Apparently in about 2003 there was a general recall on the handbrakes, the levers and cables were replaced by non self-adjusting ones BUT ONLY MANUAL GEAR BOX (ie stick-shift) cars had it done as a recall.
Automatics were not considered dangerous enough because they have a Park transmission lock...although in the UK it's still an MOT failure so I think Jaguar were being a bit tight.

The lever and cable can be retro fitted, and the parts do seem to be heavily discounted:
£15.00 for the cable
£70.00 for the handbrake lever

The way things are, these parts are probably even cheaper, relatively, in the USA. But to fit it, my local dealer quoted me £192.00 Incl VAT.
Ouch.

 

Back again, and this time it's all coming together.
Just picked the car up from the bodyshop and it's looking sweet.

I asked about the bubbling bonnet paint (along the drivers side edge) and the analysis is that there is a fold of metal where the top sheet is wrapped around the frame of the thing during manufacture, and the folded bit never got treated. Maybe that was where the bonnet was being held up in the paint shop and so was shielded, Haed to say, but it's VERY common.

Cost to fix would have been £350.00, anyway it's done now, rust gone, and caught before it needed welding.

I advise everyone to take a close look along the edges of their bonnets.
Younger cars should still be covered by the warranty.

 

I have a 2002 this makes it 12 yrs old .55.000 miles . 12 yr old transfer box& lubricant . I have only spent money on safety & MOT related items . It has one & a half inch bubble scab on the bonnet side ...If anybody thinks I'm going to spend £ 300 on a a repair , dream on . £300 is probably 1/3 of the cars actual worth. The X type is still a good 15 years from becoming a collectable & 40 yrs from becoming a classic . If i'm still alive in 15yrs time & log on this forum , most current members X type Jags will have been scrapped..along with thousands of XF's . ....Spend your money as you wish , but remember , they are only motor cars , fragile, rustable & highly expendable . Cars are not built to last , they are never going to kill their own market place .....

 

Yeah, they're not bad cars, nice handling and the missus likes the comfort, but they're never going to be iconic like an E-Type.
And the fuel consumption? Yowzer!

The only thing that they really have going for them is that they're so cheap. Been a bit unlucky with mine I have to say. Fingers crossed all I gotta do now is service it an refuel.

 

Um, the x type is worth $5,500.. So you have no clue how to add.. And the value dropped because of high mt costs

 

Over here in the UK, you can pick up low mileage 2001-03 petrol versions for less than £3000. Younger than that diesels hold their value pretty well (£5k+).
But higher mileage 2001-03 (100,000 miles) go for about £1500-2000 from a trader, cheaper if you go private.

Quite a lot of car for the money if they've been well looked after, and you can afford the running costs. And you do see a lot of them still on the road at that age, so they seem well put together, with the usual Ford weaknesses, and a few generic issues that this thread has tried to address.

 

Hi FiveSpeed, congrats on your new acquisition!!! I had the 2005 model but not your limited edition and she was SWEET!
However, due to mitigating and unfriendly circumstances, I had to part with the newer model, again, however I was refreshed and invigorated to buy another one at the first chance I got and now with my 2002 2.5 X~Type Sport, I am delighted to have had the chance to get back in the frame with a car I trust, Love and dream about!

I've only had 3 and this will not be the last jaguar I dream about, just Today, Tommorow and many other morrows, .........
IT HAS TO BE A JAGUAR, THERE IS NOTHING ELSE!!
Happy days, Stu

 

Just when I thought that I was on the home straight, yet another common fault has popped up.

The other day in heavy traffic I selected neutral and applied the handbrake, and then noticed that we were still moving.
Now the other part of that notorious brake system has failed, the cable operated caliper has seized.
The cable is fine, it just has no effect on the rear brake.
Can't afford to fix it right now, but have located a reputable Jag specialist in Andover (XKR Design), and as the old bus is due its annual service early April, I'll get it done then, and see if there's a way to chip the ignition and fueling system for increased mid range and better fuel consumption. I also want to see if the air-con has lost any gas over the last 12 months.
Current mileage is 49,110.
Getting about 260 miles from a full tank (63 litres at the pump). Mostly town driving.

 

Just curious why would you use the handbrake when you are in traffic and not just put it in neutral and use the normal brake on the car? If my understanding of your description is correct it seems kind of dangerous to use that while on the road.

 

When in slow/stopped traffic on a slope, or at the lights, I put it into neutral, and hold it on the handbrake in case my foot slips.

We're talking stops of more than 30 seconds or so (but less than about a minute, if longer ie we're totally not moving, I'd pop it in park), it avoids fatigue/cramp, or if I get distracted (by a pretty girl or someone driving like a donkey) and unconsciously lift off a bit.

As recommended by IAM.

 

I always apply my hand brake when I am stopped in traffic (Its the way I was taught ) & it stops the man behind you d being dazzled by High level Brake light ( its good manners )

 

Well the car went in for its 50,000 miles service today, almost 12 months to the day since I bought it.

I took it to XKR Design in Andover, and asked them to do a regular service plus:
Change the spark plugs
Check the air-con
Sort out the sticking rear brake caliper (handbrake) actuators
Analyse the poor fuel consumption and high revving

They did most of the work. They couldn't get the air-con checked (neighbouring garage with the equipment was fully booked).
I'm in two minds about the work at the moment.
The owner was very pleasant and knowledgeable, and I'd like to use him again, they showed me the plugs and seals that came off the air intake manifold, unlike Sharps in Newbury, and he gave it a thorough test drive (14 miles) declaring it was spot on.

During the drive he got 35mpg. On my drive home I could only manage 25mpg ( but I was cracking on up the A34). Also I noticed that the performance characteristics have changed.

The mechanic reported hearing a hissing before doing the plugs, symptomatic of an air leak in the intake, well maybe that was the problem.
Now when I put my foot down at 3,000rpm it does pull till about 5K before changing up, unlike before when instead of accelerating up the rev range, the revs only rose because it was doing rapid down changes.
It feels like it's generating more torque, and the gearbox knows it, so it doesn't feel the need to access the top of the rev range to get to the power.

Those are the good bits.
Less good was the bloody greasy mess the interior of the car was left in.

Mucked up drivers foot mat, greasy fingerprints on the (cream) leather front and rear seats, doors, rear ashtray, centre armrest, bonnet and boot (that's trunk, for friends across the pond), black mucky bits all around the handbrake lever and the wot not cubby hole below it. I'd even left the seat cover used by the bodyshop in February on the back seat, but it was unused and it looked like someone had sat in the drivers seat in greasy overalls.

And I'd been promised a courtesy car... didn't happen.
And at 4 O' clock they rang to say it was done and there was nothing wrong with the handbrake.
I had to explain again about the ratchet mechanism on the calipers sticking, so they freed them off with penetrating oil and wiggling. How long that will last for I don't know.

So good, and bad. I don't want to suggest for one moment that they're rip off merchants, they charged £285 and did what I asked. If anyone reading this knows them, I invite you to comment and defend their corner if you wish, but I'm scoring them a C+, good, honest, but pretty basic (a rinse of the bodywork and a mechanic who wore gloves before messing about in the cab would have got them a solid B+ in my book).

And now year two of ownership gets underway.
I'll be getting the air-con checked out locally later, and my friendly local mechanic will be given the go ahead to properly strip the rear calipers and use (my favourite graphite oil) or something else water resistant to stop the handbrake seizing again.

I'm flaming worn out.

 

Well said Anditover,

I sympathise with the promised "INVISIBLE" courtesy car, does anyone recall why they are called that... DOH!

I must admit that most of the guys I have used recently leave a sign they were THERE!

Having said that, when I used to pay top-dollar from a jaguar dealer for service and issues, they always gave HER the proverbial VALET and a few extras, but I blew my stack when they charged me £10 for a boot fastener/clip!!!

But, I am a fickle man and a fussy one at that and I do expect a certain standard so just mind, it's your car, your dream oh and your wallet that hurts in the end!!!

Happy driving, Anditover and may every horizon bless your journey with sunshine, good roads, less than small bumps and a Joyous arrival!

Thank you for a great post and i am sure you are enjoying yourself...
IN YOUR JAGUAR X-TYPE, WELL DONE! Keep it going, Stu