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I have to say - I seem to be having a lot of trouble with this site - I just typed a very long response (WITHOUT pictures) and got the following message: 1. The message you have entered is too short.
Here is the summary on the splice - bring a piece of the hose to an auto parts store or Home Depot and get the right size plastic connector with barbs so the connection does not come lose in the tank.
Smooth aluminum fuel line may not stay put over time if uses as the splice.
2003 X-type Fuel pump replacement measurements and pics
Hello everyone,
As promised here are the pics for my fuel pump replacement as well as the measurements to cut the hole in the floor to access the fuel pump. This may take several posts as I am new to doing this on the forum. Use these instructions at your own risk, we are not responsible for any damage you may incur. By the way, the wife's car (2003 X-Type 2.5) is running great now.
The above 3 pictures show the measuring point from the back seat brace on the passenger side--it is the black bar you see under the seat back. Just hook your measuring tape on it and go forward 14.5 inches. That will put you right in the center of the fuel pump top.
Next measure from the edge of the door sill plastic kickplate toward the center of the car. Mark off 15.5 inches in and again you will be centered in the fuel pump.
Where those two lines cross will be the center of the fuel pump top.
Use a bit depth limiter to just pierce the sheet metal for your initial exploratory hole. Be sure to not let the drill slip too deep. That metal floorboard is fairly thin and you will pierce it very easily with a properly sharpened drill bit.
Once you have the initial hole drilled, you will see that you actually have more room between the tank and the floor bottom than you think.
Next up:
-Tools Used/Needed
-Fuel Line Splice (mentioned by Erichxtype above this post)
Last edited by bmadden1042; 05-06-2015 at 09:03 PM.
Reason: Pictures not showing
Once you have your exploratory hole drilled, make it large enough to use the tools of your choice to cut the floor. I used the Composite Straight Air Metal Shear (Northern Tool) to do the initial center outward cuts. My compressor is rated at 135psi but really only puts out 80-90psi usable. These shears cut through the floorboard like butter until they reached the double walled pieces, then I had to use the Fatmax cutters (Lowes) to finish the cuts.
Glad I got the angled shears versus the straight ones as there is not enough room to go forward on the cut with the straight tool (would hit the back seat/wall). I think you can get electric-powered shears as well. There is plenty of room between the tank and the floorboard to use these tools.
Once that was done, I folded the sheet metal back as you can see in the pictures.
I tried to get the plastic/nylon ring loose using the old hammer and block of wood, but I just broke a tab or two. It would not budge after 13 years on the car, so I went ahead and ordered a universal fuel tank ring remover online. The pictures below show the unit. Once I got that and my breaker bar, the ring came loose immediately, so to me it was worth the investment. Plus I have a 2001 XK-8 that needs a fuel pump as well (next project!) and I figured it was money well-spent. Couldn't find one to rent or borrow from one of the auto parts stores either.
Once you have the hole cut and the ring loose, it is a 20 minute job to replace the pump, including 10 minutes to drain the tank if it is full. You will need to drain the fuel pump side to work with the fuel lines that go to the transfer pump on the driver's side of the tank.
As mentioned by Erichxtype in this thread, unless you are changing the transfer pump at the same time, you will either have to cut another access hole on the driver's side rear floorboard or splice the fuel line on your new pump.
I know that sounds scary since my new pump came with the fuel lines attached, but it is not as bad as it seems. Advance Auto Parts sells the kits for this for around $5.00. You will need the 3/8-inch version, which is for the smaller of the two lines going into your fuel pump. You will also need some pinch pliers (used on CV boots) to crimp the clamps on the fuel line (Lowes, Sears, Snap-on, etc.).
Here is the process in a nutshell. I just used the brass fitting on one end of the 3/8 line that I got from Advanced. You can work it off the end of the new hose. I also used two of the 4 clamps supplied in the package. You will not need to use the fuel line in the package using this method.
When you get your new pump unit, the fuel lines will be attached to it. Those same hoses are already in your tank going to the transfer pump. Trust me, you cannot reach through tank to remove them. I tried and I have long arms. So you are going to have to use the existing hoses on your new pump. The only problem is that the smaller hose is pressure fitted on the new pump and I could not work it loose. Therefore, I took Erichxtype's advice and spliced just that hose.
On your new pump, remove the larger of the two hoses from the hole that it goes into on the top of the pump. It just pushes in over the lip of the hose. The same hoses are going to be attached to your old pump coming from the driver's side of the tank, so remove the large hose from your old pump's hole as well. I show pictures of all this below using both the new pump in the car and the old pump for clearer pictures (I hope!).
Now for the scary part. On the new pump, cut the smaller hose on the non-ribbed section close to the end of that first non-ribbed part (on mine there were two non-ribbed sections, one close to the pump and the other further into the tank--it will be obvious--see pics below). So now the new pump will have just the small hose attached to it cut at the end of the first non-ribbed section. You can set the new fuel lines that are not attached aside-you will not need them.
Now go to the small fuel line still attached to your old (bad) fuel pump. I initially cut mine in the ribbed part up near the valve inlet just so I had plenty to work with and measure. Dikes work just fine when cutting these lines. You can now remove your old fuel pump from the car. Remember that you already removed the larger hose from the pump earlier by simply pulling it out of the hole. That will leave the transfer pump fuel lines free in the tank.
Now bring your new pump to the tank, insert the large hose in the hole in the top till the lip goes all the way into the hole. Then take the loose smaller hose and hold it beside the bigger hose. Now you have a rough idea of where to cut the smaller hose that is in the tank. Make sure you cut far enough away from the ribbed hose so that you have straight hose to slip over the end of the brass tube (see pictures).
I put the brass fitting on the fuel tank side first just because I thought it would be easier. Put a clamp on the fuel tank side hose first but don't crimp it yet. Work the brass fitting into the fuel line--it will go on with a little wiggling and push it all the way to the middle of the fitting. Once it is there, put the clamp on that end and crimp it. Don't apply too much force or you can cut the clamp. Next measure to make sure the non-ribbed hose end from the new pump is the right length and trim to fit so that it is the same length as the larger hose once it is fitted over the brass fitting. Put a clamp on the hose first, push the hose onto the brass fitting and secure by crimping the clamp. (See pictures). Zip tie the two hoses back together and you are good to go.
You are now ready to install your fuel pump!
Last edited by bmadden1042; 05-06-2015 at 11:00 PM.
You will have to twist and turn the pump to get it in properly. Don't be too concerned as it really will go in mostly right initially.
Note: There is a silver ring that goes inside the upper lip of the plastic tank that you will have to install before putting the pump in. Not sure what it does, maybe a ground or static prevention strap??? Any way, you will see it in the pictures below.
I also put in a new green sealing ring gasket. To help it stay put when you are screwing in the retainer ring, I put a light coating of motor oil or vaseline on the outside edge of it. It does like to slip off when you are first trying to screw on the ring so keep an eye on it.
You will have to press down on the top of the fuel pump to start the ring threading properly. That should hold the sealing ring gasket in place but a second set of hands holding the pump down from the driver's side sure is handy (pun intended).
There is an arrow on the top of the fuel pump that needs to match up with the marks on the tank when the retaining ring is fully tightened (see picture with tape measure). You can see the arrow on the pump and the white mark which has two lines in it on the tank itself.
I put the mark just a little to the right of the marks so that when I tightened up the ring with the ring tool it moved the pump arrow into the right position because it will move as you get to the final tightening turns. (See picture)
I filled the tank about half full before I tried to start her up. That really helped the pump to prime and pick up gas versus relying on what was left in the transfer side of the the tank when first starting.
Remember to hook up the fuel filter line on top of the pump as well and connect the electrical connection on the top of the pump as well as the one in the center of the car under the rubber gasket if you disconnected that too.
Safety first! Also, I should have mentioned this in the beginning part of this sequence of posts, but make sure you disconnect your battery first and I had all windows, doors, and the sunroof in the car open and a fan blowing through the rear driver's door to minimize the gas fumes. I also did this outside, not in my garage for the same reasons.
Hope this helps you weekend mechanics. Let me know if you have any questions on any of this. Good luck and please be careful. Again, use at your own risk.
OOPS! Forgot about this part. I got a sheet of galvanized steel, some galvanized steel paint and my rivet gun to cover the hole. I will post pics of that when I finish it up this weekend. I will also use some aluminum waterproof tape to further seal against water and outside air. Pics to follow.
I joined this forum today, one of the specific reasons was to thank you for the posts! Your descriptions were clear and informative, and your photos were excellent. I only wish I had stumbled upon this a week ago. I am replacing the fuel pump in a 2002 x type 2.5L. It's a traumatic experience coming to the realization of what replacing the fuel pump entails. I eventually went through all the steps you described including cutting a flap in the floor pan to remove the pump. Then today I stumbled upon your postings. At least I feel a little less guilty about the hole now. Prices for a new pump module seem to range from 3 to 9 hundred dollars. Ouch! Can I "rebuild" this one? I'm tempted to try to get one from a salvage yard. This car has 233,000 miles on it and I may find that it has other issues once I get it running. Any advice you might have for me sourcing a replacement as economically as possible would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Again! Dan
Dan: Welcome to the forum. You'll find lots of friendly people here who enjoy sharing tips and tricks to keep our X-Types purring.
Welsh Enterprises sold me a new X-Type fuel pump for $85 without the plastic canister. But that was a year ago, and unfortunately it's not listed on their website today. But you may wish to give them a call. Their website is www.welshent.com.
If you try a used pump, be certain the mileage is low. High mileage makes these pumps glitchy, and they fail without warning at the worst time, i.e., at 60 MPH in highway traffic. It's not fun trying to coast thru traffic to the shoulder with a stalled engine, and no power assist in your brakes and steering.
If you figure out how to repair your old pump, please take pictures and post them for the rest of us. I didn't see any obvious way to open the pump and service it. For $85, a new pump from Welsh was a best solution for me. Hopefully they'll have one for you when you call.
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. The actual pump is a small cylinder (picture attached) that is inside the plastic canister. It will be obvious where it is since the fuel line will connect to it on top of the canister. As someone has already posted, good luck finding just that piece, although I guess you could take the one out of the old canister and look for a part number on it and try searching for it that way.
I also agree that looking for a used one is a roll of the dice, although once the hole is cut, it is a quick fix.
Good luck!
This picture is for the one in my 2001 XK8 that I am currently installing, but the actual unit in the X-type is very similar.
The best price ($275.00) I found for a complete assembly/new one is through Parts Geek here in the States. That is the one I installed and it is working fine.
Has anyone just put an aftermarket pump inline under the hood?
This has fixed many cars, wonder if it works for the x.
I do not see why not, unless the transfer pump causes an issue.
But even then you could just ignore it and fuel up more often leaving
that half of the tank full for life.
Can't say that I ever heard of anyone doing that, at least on what i have seen on here through the years. I realize it is a pain to replace and not the cheapest expense, but why cobble together something like that? It's not like you have to replace fuel pumps every other year. Chances are you change it once and you would be good to go for the life of the car. Bite the bullet and do it right the first time and you are then assured of no potential issues down the road from adding something non-stock. Just my two cents.
For what it's worth, my 2 cents on installing an aftermarket fuel pump under the hood.....
The gas tank in our X-Types has a single fuel pump with two functions: (1) supply ~45-50 psi gas to fuel rail & engine, and (2) transfer gas "over the hump" from left to right side of the saddle tank. This picture of X-Type fuel flow is copied from Astromorg's post: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...7/#post1101975
When the pump fails, if I installed an aftermarket pump under the hood, the new pump could draw fuel from only the right side of the tank. Gas on the left side would be as useless as a flat spare tire in the trunk.
The fuel tank has a working capacity of ~14 gallons, due to the saddle shaped, and cat's range is ~300-400 miles between fill-up's. A bad pump inside the tank would reduce the working capacity to perhaps 8-10 gallons and the range to ~200-250 miles between fill-up's. I'd be filling up every ~3 days, too paranoid to trust the fuel gauge. Any my wife would never drive my cat. Wait a minute....... this could be a good outcome!!!!!
Kidding aside, it was not that difficult to replace the glitchy fuel pump inside the tank. Hopefully it lasts another ~120kmiles, like the original.
Thank you for your kind post. I want to touch upon a few things before I post my next entry with pics hopefully.
First, there is no "transfer pump" on an x type; although this is referred to in numerous posts. Rather there is a float assembly that controls fuel transfer from the non-pump side by allowing different levels of suction from its side. I don't want to seem nit picky, but this could confuse neophytes who attempt this for the first time.
2) Although I agree that it is not necessary to duplicate the work on the drivers side of the rear seat in order to remove the hoses from the transfer float assembly - - you do not need to, as Bob Madden, resourceful though he obviously is, "splice" the lines that are however, zip tied together three separate times for some reason, on their way over to the other side - transfer side.
2a)What you can so with greater ease, is to remove the entire pump assembly and then with the tank completely empty, remove the clamp from the short rubber hose connecting the pump to the plastic transfer side (about three inches) and then removing ONLY the electric pump through the bottom of the assembly. These are available used from about $75 on ebay, and if they work, they usually work fine - not in between.
2b) Otherwise remove the pump from the assembly. Intuitive mechanics will ask how you remove a non-radiator hose type clamp that is pressure fitted on w/o grinding, and the answer is you don't - you grind it off and thus the reason for the very carefully emptied tank and ventilated area - otherwise, the splice method is the preferred method and I'd only half disagree with Bob's method of splicing. SInce the tubes are corrugated plastic, my preference would be to splice as near as possible to the pump assembly so you don't get into the corrugated part. Otherwise, I would prefer a gas/oil impervious epoxy and plastic internal splice with the caveat that if you get too small of an I.D. you need to consider spicing "over" the two hoses with a larger diameter plastic splice and epoxy. Enthusiasts may initially blush at the idea of splicing two gas lines but recall that these are merely transfer lines that feed the pump and they are under gas 90% of the time, exposing themselves only when the tank is near empty - thus if they leak at all, they are at worst sucking fuel in from the outside, and thus arguably sucking in air and then possibly failing to transfer the final 10% of fuel over, rather than completely mucking up the system.
3) Once you actually perform this task, which takes about an hour total to R&R the pump, you will notice that one of the hoses on the pump assembly (the larger one) simply comes out of the assembly when pulled lightly, thus there is NO need to splice that hose - but rather only the smaller one - you can easily miss this because the barbs on the end of the hose tend to cling tightly to the pump assembly even when moved around a great deal - but it does come out quite easily if you tug on it hard enough.
4) Additionally, you can fairly easily make a 6" fuel pump cover remover by performing the following:
a) Take a piece of 2x4 and cut it to 6.5" in length and then trim the corners to a 45 degree angle (lop them off).
b) Take your wife's finger nail polish and paint the upper "tangs" that protrude from the top of the cover, leave plenty wet - then take the 2x4 and place it down on the top of the cover so that the paint transfers.
c) Take the 2x4 and with either a hand saw or preferably a small circular saw, cut grooves where the paint has transferred about two inches in length.
d) Try the finished piece on top of the cover, it should fit snugly on at least two tangs on one end and two on the other end; once in place you can whack it with the persuader and it should move for you - once a half turn is done, you are on your way to hand loosening.
Last edited by davideliarosenbloom; 11-09-2015 at 07:03 PM.
Reason: wasn't finished
david: A year ago, at ~120 Kmiles, I replaced the fuel pump in my 2002 X-Type without replacing the entire canister. The pump alone was cheaper, $85 including S&H. And reusing the old canister avoided cutting & splicing the transfer hose to the far side of the tank.
Welsh Enterprises sold the pump for $85 with S&H, but today their website lists only the entire canister for $435, not the pump alone. Too bad. Good news: eBay lists 2 pumps for ~$100 & ~$137 with S&H:
No grinding was needed to remove the metal band crimped around the rubber hose. The band has an extra loop into which I inserted a nail and twisted it with pliers until the band opened. The attached picture shows the metal band circled in red. The band I opened is at the other end of this rubber hose, attached to the brass nipple of the fuel pump. The new pump is secure the rubber hose with a jubilee / band clamp.
I purchased the pump from Welsh Enterprises back in June,
I had to call them as they were not listed and they got me one in, took 2 weeks but I do feel better that I got a new OEM pump as you hear horror stories about the Ebay knock offs.
Paul: Thanks for sharing, and glad to hear Welsh Enterprises had an OEM pump for you. Perhaps their website lists only active warehouse inventory.
They treated me well, and ~$85 including S&H (assuming that hasn't changed much) for an OEM pump is far better than eBay's offerings, and better than ~$400 for the combined pump and canister.
If enough people call Welsh for their ~$85 X-Type fuel pump, maybe they'll again inventory and list it on their website: www.welshent.com
04-08-2015, 09:37 AM
Splice
