x type temp gauge problems
#1
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hi folks, stuck with a cast on my left foot for rest of year so got myself a 2001 x type 2.5 awd auto 74000mls so i can still drive (always fancied a jag so great excuse)
i have had a few issues but managed to fix, biggest of all the gearbox but new transmission control module fixed that.
anyways, my temp gauge reads halfway then for no reason climbs to full and light comes on then it goes back to normal when it feels like it, then up to full again. the car is not overheating though???????? it still drives fine until you try full kickdown and it stutters for around 5-10 seconds then boom, of she goes and pulls like a train all the way and temp goes back to normal. then back to step one. bloody annoying but a little thing stopping me from enjoying this lovely car. any help would be much appreciated, thankyou.
i have had a few issues but managed to fix, biggest of all the gearbox but new transmission control module fixed that.
anyways, my temp gauge reads halfway then for no reason climbs to full and light comes on then it goes back to normal when it feels like it, then up to full again. the car is not overheating though???????? it still drives fine until you try full kickdown and it stutters for around 5-10 seconds then boom, of she goes and pulls like a train all the way and temp goes back to normal. then back to step one. bloody annoying but a little thing stopping me from enjoying this lovely car. any help would be much appreciated, thankyou.
#2
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
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s1yss, replace the battery in the car and then see what you have. If you get a load test done on the battery, they will probably tell you that the battery is fine, but it is at say 80% or something silly like that. The Jag loves a battery with 100% capacity. When the battery starts to go, the voltages fluctuate too much and the computer starts throwing funny things at you. If the battery doesn't fix things, then I would be looking at the battery cables at that point. These can be had by going to your local Checkers and getting the cables there. The generic ones work just fine. Make sure to replace both the positive and negative cables.
Enjoy the PNW. I used to live in Bremerton. But, life pulled me other places, but I still end up back in the Sound area periodically to see the grandkids.
Enjoy the PNW. I used to live in Bremerton. But, life pulled me other places, but I still end up back in the Sound area periodically to see the grandkids.
#5
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s1yss, if you are interested, I can give you something to try. What you are going to do is to put the instrument cluster into a "diagnostic mode" (do not worry, you can't hurt anything in this mode). Simply depress the TRIP button on the end of the turn signal stalk and hold it down as you start the car. Keep depressing it till the message center says either "TEST" or "ENGINEERING TEST". It may say something different, but it will be obvious that it is in a test mode. At this point, you can release the TRIP button.
At this point, depress the TRIP button about 20 times until you see the message center say "XXXX C" (where XXXX is going to be 4 digits, if the motor is cold, will probably read something in the neighborhood of "0250 C", which this is 25.0 degrees C, if the motor is warm, it will probably be around "0950 C" or 95.0 degrees C). With this indication present, take the car out for a drive and if you can, drive such that the problem occurs. Does the value on the instrument cluster remain constant when the temp gauge goes nuts or does the value suddenly rise? Does the value rise to "3695 C" (if so, you have either an open temp sensor or there is a wiring issue as the computer is seeing maximum resistance)? Does the indication go to "----"? This would indicate a communication issue.
Lets see what you get with this test and then we can start eliminating things and then narrowing down where we need to look.
At this point, depress the TRIP button about 20 times until you see the message center say "XXXX C" (where XXXX is going to be 4 digits, if the motor is cold, will probably read something in the neighborhood of "0250 C", which this is 25.0 degrees C, if the motor is warm, it will probably be around "0950 C" or 95.0 degrees C). With this indication present, take the car out for a drive and if you can, drive such that the problem occurs. Does the value on the instrument cluster remain constant when the temp gauge goes nuts or does the value suddenly rise? Does the value rise to "3695 C" (if so, you have either an open temp sensor or there is a wiring issue as the computer is seeing maximum resistance)? Does the indication go to "----"? This would indicate a communication issue.
Lets see what you get with this test and then we can start eliminating things and then narrowing down where we need to look.
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1100me (07-23-2014)
#6
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Hello, that sounds like he sender or the sender wiring . I was having very similar symptoms and my problem was the temperature sender. Every time the car would get to a speed over 50 mph for over 4-minutes, it would get limp mode, the engine light would come on, the temperature light would come on and the needle go all the way to H.
Some of the aftermarket senders are no good. The one that solved my problem is this one::
Facet Coolant Temp Sensor Switch 89422 35010 LNA 1600AA Made in Italy | eBay
Good luck
Some of the aftermarket senders are no good. The one that solved my problem is this one::
Facet Coolant Temp Sensor Switch 89422 35010 LNA 1600AA Made in Italy | eBay
Good luck
#7
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Will try engineer mode tomorrow, thanks. Fitted new thermostat and water pump today and new coolant, temp gauge sat bang in the middle and car drove perfect for about 10 miles, thought that was it fixed but then out of nowhere, gauge back up and back to safe mode. Was gutted, thought I had it. Ps. There was no thermostat fitted!!!!
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#8
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Well crankcase breather pipi was caput so got new ribbed one and took car for diagnostic and came up temperature sensor so got new one. Fitted and hew presto that seems to be it (fingers crossed) been out 3 times since and not had any problems. Big cat booked in on tuesday to get the annoying squeek sorted and the young guy doing it has done one before and seems to know what he is talking about so well happy there, keep posted how I get on.
#9
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Usual stutter @ 3000 rpm. Replaced upper and lower manifold gaskets, spark plugs, ( coils tested good), fuel injectors, IMP O-rings, Air filter, upper water hose, thermostat, valve cover gaskets. Still stutters @3000, and now have low voltage temp sensor (P0117), I think. Knock Sensor??? Hate to redo. Refilled radiator. What could have I screwed up?? Possible bad thermostat?t All other issues solved.
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