X-Type Throwing codes
#1
X-Type Throwing codes
Hey guys, Im hoping you could help.. I bought an 04 X-Type 3.0 about 3 moths ago. has about 83k miles on it. Never had a problem, until today. Car runs great, only today driving it my check engine light came on. Seemed to almost "Jump" while driving for a split second then I noticed the light. I ran the codes and 2 came up. Later tonight more codes came up. Car runs fine, not in limp mode, drives like normal. The codes that flashed are
P1796
P1797
P0171
P0174
P1642
Any ideas on what would trigger all these at once? Battery is only a few months old
Thanks in advance guys!
P1796
P1797
P0171
P0174
P1642
Any ideas on what would trigger all these at once? Battery is only a few months old
Thanks in advance guys!
#4
Thanks for the list. I actually looked up the codes and I read about them, this list is actually a little more descriptive then what I have found. I know the 176 codes are running lean, that is actually the only codes that it started with.. after that I got the 1642 alomg with the 0174 1nd 0171, them the 3rd time I ran the scan it flashed the 1796 and 1797.along with the others.. I almost expected the car to go into limp mode but to my surprise it runs just normal. I am just confused at what to look for or tackle first.
#5
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Intermittent vacuum leak - it just started. Tiny little crack somewhere in a hose, not quite big enough to toss you into Limp Mode yet, but soon it will!
Search through forum member Thermo's posts for instructions on how to find them, he gives the best suggestions on where to look and what to do.
Just the tiniest vacuum leak will toss you a mess 'o weird codes. A dab of Plasticoat or a small hunk of Duct Tape will probably save the day after you locate the leak.
My bet is on the large vacuum hose over the top of the engine, slightly to the right as you face the car. It's under the plastic cowl (Don't drop those little weird little locking screws that hold the cowl down, they are near impossible to find once the fall on top of the engine!). Wiggle the hose around with the engine running and listen for the "hiss", patch the leak and then order a replacement hose.
Best 'o luck, I hope it ends up being that simple!
PS - After you locate and fix the leak, don't forget to use a code reader to erase all the stored codes. If you leave them in there, the next time you have a problem you'll have one heck of a time narrowing it down!
Search through forum member Thermo's posts for instructions on how to find them, he gives the best suggestions on where to look and what to do.
Just the tiniest vacuum leak will toss you a mess 'o weird codes. A dab of Plasticoat or a small hunk of Duct Tape will probably save the day after you locate the leak.
My bet is on the large vacuum hose over the top of the engine, slightly to the right as you face the car. It's under the plastic cowl (Don't drop those little weird little locking screws that hold the cowl down, they are near impossible to find once the fall on top of the engine!). Wiggle the hose around with the engine running and listen for the "hiss", patch the leak and then order a replacement hose.
Best 'o luck, I hope it ends up being that simple!
PS - After you locate and fix the leak, don't forget to use a code reader to erase all the stored codes. If you leave them in there, the next time you have a problem you'll have one heck of a time narrowing it down!
Last edited by Bruce in North Dakota; 09-19-2013 at 10:35 AM.
#6
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funnyact, how old is the battery in the car? If you don't know or it is over 3 years, have the battery load tested. What you are seeing may be nothing more than a battery that is starting to go due to the cooler weather. MOst parts stores will be able to test the battery for you for free.
After that, like was mentioned, it may be simply a vacuum leak. LIke was mentioned, remove the cover off of your engine and you will see a large rubber hose running from the valve cover near you to the intake manifold. If you feel on the underside of this hose you may feel a rip in the hose. THis is especially true if you have a smooth hose vice a ribbed hose (Jaguar realized that the smooth hose was failing a lot, so, they made a new and improved part). If the hose is ripped, get a new one, reset the codes and then see what you have.
If you need more help, let me know and we will take it from there.
On a side note, please include the month that your car was made (can be found in the driver's door jam). There were significant changes made to the wiring and whatnot of the car in early 2004. This will help us make sure we give you the specific information you need and not what applies to the other design car.
After that, like was mentioned, it may be simply a vacuum leak. LIke was mentioned, remove the cover off of your engine and you will see a large rubber hose running from the valve cover near you to the intake manifold. If you feel on the underside of this hose you may feel a rip in the hose. THis is especially true if you have a smooth hose vice a ribbed hose (Jaguar realized that the smooth hose was failing a lot, so, they made a new and improved part). If the hose is ripped, get a new one, reset the codes and then see what you have.
If you need more help, let me know and we will take it from there.
On a side note, please include the month that your car was made (can be found in the driver's door jam). There were significant changes made to the wiring and whatnot of the car in early 2004. This will help us make sure we give you the specific information you need and not what applies to the other design car.
#7
Ok Ill check it out and get back to you, it will probably be tomorrow morning before I get all the info. The battery is a duralast and its only a few months old. The guy I bought the car from replaced the battery about 12 days prior to me buying it. Im in Los Angeles so cold weather is pretty much obsolete.. Lol.
Thanks for the help
Thanks for the help
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#8
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#9
#10
So I went out and looked today.. looks like I have a big leak on the IMT valve.. I liked my finger and put it over the area and it slurped right away. Ive read the o-rings go bad on them, where should I go to purchase them? Will autozone or someplace like that carry them or do I have to order them through the dealer?
#12
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funnyact, I can't look at the pic at work, but from what you are describing, it is very possible that is what is the source of your problem. For a temporary fix, you can use something like Perma-tex black RTV to form a new seal until you can get the new o-rings. That would atleast give you a chance to see if the car is better.
As for getting a new o-ring, look at getting it through JPLV or jaguarparts.com. Both are Jaguar dealerships that offer parts at discounted prices. The o-rings should cost you about $3 each. You will need 2. Replacing them requires an 8mm socket and about 10 minutes of your time. The trick with the lower one is you will have to undo the 2 bolts, pull the IMT valve back a little bit, stretch the old o-ring off over the end of the IMT valve and then install the new o-ring using the same process. OTherwise, you are going to need to lift the intake off of the car to make room.
As for getting a new o-ring, look at getting it through JPLV or jaguarparts.com. Both are Jaguar dealerships that offer parts at discounted prices. The o-rings should cost you about $3 each. You will need 2. Replacing them requires an 8mm socket and about 10 minutes of your time. The trick with the lower one is you will have to undo the 2 bolts, pull the IMT valve back a little bit, stretch the old o-ring off over the end of the IMT valve and then install the new o-ring using the same process. OTherwise, you are going to need to lift the intake off of the car to make room.
#16
OK so I went out, bought new o-rings and replaced the top and bottom. The old ones barely had a seal, slid right out. In the picture I posted the little indent on top had a major leak. I replaced both and seems to run a little smoother.check engine light is still on. I was using the cheap Autel ms300 reader and for some reason it wont clear the codes. So I guess I just have to wait for the computer to.cycle to see if it goes off?
#17
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funnyact, if you don't want to wait, disconnect the battery and wait about 15 seconds and then connect it back up. You will need to reprogram the Auto feature for the windows, but that takes all of a minute to do to the car. If you need directions on that, let us know and you can do it yourself. Then if the codes come back, then we know we still have an issue.
#18
OK I disconnected the battery and the check engine is still on. I'm going to have to do another look through again. Is there another thing I should look for? I looked at the pcv hose and it is the smooth kind but doesn't look damaged. I may just replace it to be on the safe side. Any other ideas?
#19
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funnyact, did you feel on the underside? From our experience, the top of the hose will look perfect. But, the underside will have a big split in it and that will be enough to give you grief. But, like you mentioned, probably good to replace it since you have the smooth hose and it is essentially a ticking time bomb for it to fail.
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