Hi all, I’ve been driving my 02 x400 that I completed the manual swap on months ago. The problems I have been having are very random misfire (check engine light flashes) and randomly it will decide to go in limp mode. Super scary at freeway speeds, especially when I have my 3 yr old in the car. Today it started randomly stalling when the clutch is depressed(ie stopping st a light or my favorite stalling in stop and go traffic) and it decided to not restart, luckily I was coasting down hill and got it to start via popping the clutch. The car would crank but nothing else. Here are the codes I’m currently getting via IDS 118.5. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

 

From the many misfire-type codes you may well have a serious air/vacuum leak (and as you can see doing catalyst damage).

You should not drive it until any such fault is fixed.

 

I see that one of the codes is for the crankshaft position sensor. (P0335) Maybe check that to see if the connection is good or there is any electrical damage. Everything else is for misfires for every cylinder, which might be a result of something else or are old stored codes, as I find ot hard to believe that you have misfires on every cylinder and could still drive the car. Try erasing all the codes and see what comes back so you then know what is recent and go from there.

Does it otherwise drive well the rest of the time and then completely out of the blue shut down? Any kind of pattern to when it does that? Like, before it would warm up or it only does it after X amount of driving, etc.? Or are the occurances completely random?

 

Thank you for the replies, as for patterns of occurrence. It is fine when cold and sometimes like clock work it will go into limo mode when I’m either in the on ramp for the freeway or about to get on the on ramp from my house. Usually around 5 minutes of driving. Then other times for a week or more it won’t go into limp mode at all. This last week has been a real test of my patience, Monday after work crank no start, 5-8 minutes later started no problem. Tuesday in traffic, depressed the clutch and stalled. Restarted fine and was good for the rest of the 45 min drive. Then yesterday, just problem after problem. Dug my R53 mini out of hibernation and am now driving that until I can resolve the issues. I am going to replace the crank position sensor, coil pack(they are old and questionable), spark plugs, fuel filter and fuel pump. I have the new pump and coils from when I built the car. Just never got around to installing them. If anyone is unaware the car in question was a 02 3.0 Auto and is now a manual trans with a 30k engine. Again thank you for the responses and keep them coming I absolutely love driving it over my Mini Cooper S (it’s and autocross car and not the most comfortable).

 

The combination of codes is random - an audio code, for example, has nothing to do with starting the car or with the engine suddenly cutting out, except that all of these symptoms (together) can be produced by a bad battery, or poor battery charge, or a bad ground connection, OR a faulty battery lead, either + or -, corroded internally - this is very common. The fact that the engine issue happens with heat is significant. First, after the engine has been running for a short whil - feel the battery connections at the posts (carefully). If one is hot, then that lead is defective and should be replaced. The batter clamps should also be removed and any corrosion cleaned, the clamps lightly sanded and retightened.

For the record, my wife's manual shift X-Type had exactly the failure described (an internally corroded lead) - but it was caught almost immediately - the first symptom being the battery warning light illuminating. So it did not develop into any further issues.

 

Thanks for the tip! I will give that a try. I also wanted to update everyone and let them know the fuel pressure was down to 22lbs!!! So I went ahead and got a new pump. I ordered C2N3866 as I don't want to try and cut the transfer line, plus I only paid $60.00. So now I'm waiting for the Snap-on guy to bring me a nibbler to cut the floor. I really don't like the idea of cutting the floor of my kitty but I checked and book says its 22hrs to change the pump. So once the fuel pump, fuel filter, Coils, plugs and crank position sensor are changed I will be giving sov211's method a go. I know its not the battery, as it is a 2 months old interstate AGM MTX-94R H7. But the odd thing is that the Battery light never came on, at least not that I ever noticed. I do believe that sov211 is correct though as it showed a P2503. Thank you all!

 

Curious if using part # C2N3866 which is for a different model Jag, has the same specs as for the X (i.e. pressure, etc)?

 

I found the part number via this thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...cement-130721/

But you do raise a very good question...