I have 2007 xtype (wife does) and she complained the ac not working and radiator cooling fans not working. SO, long story short, I replaced fans, cooling fan module and emptied freon rather than add. ( I wanted to be sure of quantity). Now the cooling seems better but I think it could be cooler, it is showing 59deg on my digital thermometer.
Now the problem is the fans run all the time, the ac clutch is engaged all the time. Fans keep running for 10seconds after shut down. When both are running it sounds like an airplane to her and noise attracts unwanted attention. I am not sure where to go from here. Where does the signal come from? Thermostat? relay? I am only somewhat mechanicaly inclined but given above, I could fix it if I new what I was fixing. Troubleshooting is the hard part. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Happy wife Happy life you know.
Thanks

 

With AC on, both fans run at full speed. This is NORMAL.

 

blondie42, like was mentioned, the fans will run at max speed if you have the A/C turned on full blast (ie, dash fan on max, temp dialed down). I would say to first try starting the car and seeing if the fans come on with the A/C off and the motor cold. If they do, then this would confirm a problem. If they don't, then I would say to next try turning on the A/C to some mid point. This should cause the fans to run at a medium speed and potentially start and stop.

If the fans run all the time, then it may be possible that you have a bad fan controller. The fan controller is controlled via a pulsed signal from the ECU. If you understand electronics, then Pulse Width Modulation is how it works (if not, think a relationship of on to off, the signal will always tell the signal to go to max speed, but if it only is on 10% of the time, the fan will only spin at 10% of its max speed, the other 90% of the time it is coasting). The warmer the car gets, the more on time the ECU commands to the fan controller. The A/C factors into this to ensure sufficient cooling happens for the A/C system. The ECU gets the engine temp from the engine coolant temp (ECT) sensor.

When you drained and refilled the freon system, how did you do it? If you popped a fitting and let everything leak out and then remade the fitting, then odds are, you are not going to get great cooling because you allowed air into the freon system and this will affect its efficiency. The only fix for this is to draw a vacuum on the system and then refill from there ($60 or so at any freon shop). Also, if you didn't draw a vacuum, you may have drained out the freon, but did you get all the oil out? That evaporates away at a different temp and you may actually have an overfilled system because you now have too much oil in relation to the freon.

Enjoy your time in Sequim. I lived in Bremerton for 12 years. Loved my time in that area and loved traveling up into your neck of the woods.

 

Thankyou so much for the reply. I was a HVAC installer as a youth and have a vacuum pump that I have never used till now. I bought gauges for ac and tested system. It is within a safe zone but pressure seems very low. 100 lbs or so and should be twice that so not sure why. I jumped the compressor and it worked. It previously was not engaging. I will try all you have noted and see from there.

 

Ok, so today was my first chance to get back to xtype car. We have a mother on her last weeks and is nearly a full time job.
I reattached the gauges then just turned key to on position. Fans had a 2 or 3 second delay while computer woke up then ran 100%(I assume is 100%) then I started car and let her run. Fans continued on running. Compressor does NOT cycle but IS working. Blue (low pressure) hose is steady at 40 and red hose is steady at 75lbs but no cycling as noted earlier.
A little more info,..I have tried 3 different controllers. The last one claims it is new and outward appearance seems to support new. I noticed when I started this project the ac clutch was not engaging so as noted earlier in this thread I dumped freon so I could guarentee quantity. I used a power probe to jump clutch and now it works but never stops.
I did put a vacuum on it but may not have been enough. Low pressure looks good but high pressure should be double and cycle. In addition somehow in controller swapping I now have a DSC light on. Maybe their not related but timing is suspect. I really need some steering in right direction. Air is showing 59deg on digital thermometer but seems it could be colder and is clear it's not operating proper. Troubleshooting is the hard part. I can install or rebuild anything. I just dont know what it is. How do I verify compressor or ECM? Thermostat or sensor?
Thankyou in advance for any help

 

blondie42, check out the attachment below. This might be what you are suffering from. A lot of members have done this to their cars and fixed their issue.

As for the DSC light, do you happen to also have an ABS light too? If yes, then one of your wheel speed sensors is being flaky. If not, did you by chance happen to move something around near the ABS block when you were trying to jump past the clutch circuit? That is the only thing I can think of.

 

The ONLY real way to charge the system is by WEIGHT. I have a Robinair R134a recovery machine that weighs the charge when you recover the refrigerant.

I can add the refrigerant by weight with it also. I press the keypad to enter the desired weight and it adds automatically.

You can buy 12 oz cans and get pretty close to the recommended charge weight, but the engine needs to be running and the compressor needs to operate.

bob

 

Thankyou for the reply. I am not sure where the control module even is. Is that the same as the ecm? I seem to recall reading about a sensor that tells the ecm temp or some such thing to essentially direct it to engage or cool etc... Is there a sensor like this? Beyond the thermostat sensor? The fan shouldnt be running all the time so that seems like a good place to start.Thanks

 

Assuming the refrigerant is at proper quantity, is there anything besides the fan controller that directs the fan to come on? or in this case stay on? That seems like a good place to start

 

With A/C engaged X type's run both fans at high. Wondering why this is not sinking in? Starting there is chasing a ghost.

 

Mr. Gailey
thankyou for your responses to my conundrum. I do accept that the fans run at high when AC is on. It makes total sense to me. It has been broken for some time so I guess I dont recall normal.
I still need help though as the fans run at high and all the time, when the AC is off and just defrost is running at 65deg. Ever since I jumped compressor to see if it would work it hasn't stopped running either. I pulled the relay from the fuse block to stop them running for time being and they did stop. Compressor still runs and main fan runs full time.
I have put in 3 controllers with no improvement so am stumped. Is there a sensor that could be bad that causes these issues? Is it possible the ECM is tweaked and if so is there a way to test it? Is it possible compressor could run steady but not be working? Is there a way to prove it?
I am open to anything .it's all worth testing to me. We are very low budget right now as we pay medical on elderly mom with constant c as re so if I cant fix it it wont go to shop. It will stay broken.
So just to recap
compressor runs full time
fans run full time
low pressure line reads 40
high side is 75 and should be 200 or better
I replaced freon
I replaced fan module

 

Let's start with some basics. Does the led light on a/c & or automatic button illuminate? If yes or no check the fuse next. There is a possibility the CCM is bad also.

I noticed you changed the fan controller. IF you bought one of the inexpensive Asian ones, there is one of your problems. I've not read nor texted/emailed with anyone that has bought one that worked correctly.

Next is you doing the freon after "emptying" it. Not a wise move, this would be the next most logical problem.

COMPRESSOR - The A/C compressor pumps the refrigerant through the system. It's operated by an engine belt, just like the alternator and power steering pump. The only difference is that the A/C compressor has a clutch that engages and disengages the compressor as needed. When you turn off the system, the A/C compressor clutch disengages, and no longer causes a drag on the engine.

REFRIGERANT - A little physics if you don't mind: There's no such thing as "cold" - there's only a lack of heat. The A/C system doesn't pump "cold" into the car, it extracts heat from the inside of the car and pumps it out into the atmosphere. It does this by the use of the refrigerant chemical. In older cars, the chemical was R12 (freon). Since R12 contains chlorine and flourine, it damages the ozone layer and its production was banned. R12 has been replaced by R134a, which is more ozone-friendly since it doesn't contain chlorine or flourine. R12 is still available for purchase, but it's getting really expensive. R134a can be retrofitted into the older systems if all of the old oil and refrigerant is removed first.

Let's follow the refrigerant's path, once it leaves the compressor:

CONDENSOR - This is the thin radiator in front of your engine's radiator. At this point, the refrigerant is extremely hot and under high pressure--80 to 300 psi, depending on the environmental conditions. The condenser acts as a radiator, removing heat from the refrigerant, and in the process, changing it from a gas to a liquid. Now that the refrigerant is cooler and liquid again, it's sent on to the expansion valve.

EXPANSION VALVE and EVAPORATOR CORE - These act as a heat absorption unit, removing heat from the inside of the car. The expansion valve is designed to meter the flow of refrigerant based on the heat load it senses coming from the evaporator. It also changes the refrigerant from a liquid to a gas. A little more physics: when a liquid changes to a gas, it absorbs heat - lots of it.

The evaporator core absorbs heat from the inside of the car, sort of like a radiator in reverse. It does this when the blower fans blow warm air over the evaporator core. Once the system is in operation, the heat absorbed by the evaporator core is transferred to the refrigerant at the moment of evaporation. Dehumidification also takes place during air conditioning, since cold air can't hold as much moisture as warm air. All this gives you cool dry air inside your car, and leaves the big water puddle that you see when you park your car after the A/C has been operating.

RECEIVER/DRYER - This component acts as a filter, trapping small particles and removing any residual moisture from the system. Any moisture in the system will freeze up at the expansion valve and will clog the system, so it has to be removed. Then, it's back to the compressor, and the cycle starts over.

Remember, anyone can perform mechanical work on an A/C system without a license, but no one is allowed to vent any refrigerant into the atmosphere. A license is required to purchase the refrigerant and charge the system. If you need to replace a component in your A/C system, have the system professionally purged before you open it up to the atmosphere.

Technical video of fan speed control through module and ECM.


some electrical testing for system =

https://www.justanswer.com/jaguar/6i...-repaired.html

 

I know this is for an "S" type, but the basics are still the same. Some locations may be a bit different but that's easily found. This is about as comprehensive an explanation and diagnosis as I've found to run down problems.

DIY: Diagnose It Yourself - JaguarClimateControl.com

 

Thankyou for taking the time to send this. It is very extensive and I will start working through it over the weekend. Many things to check. Thankyou again. I will let you know what I find.