yes another tranny fluid thread
#1
yes another tranny fluid thread
alright guys, ive done my transfer case fluid change, now im willing to tacle the tranny. we have a machine at work that empties and fills the tranny rlly quick, compared to jacking it up at home. so im gonna go ahead and try it, i just need to know what fluid to fill it with.
so if youve changed the tranny fluid on your x type, post here and lemme know what fluid you used and how the car reacted to it over a certain period of time. thanks in advance
so if youve changed the tranny fluid on your x type, post here and lemme know what fluid you used and how the car reacted to it over a certain period of time. thanks in advance
#6
if u have an auto transmission then your gonna need something that meets or exceeds IDEMITSU K17 . this type of fluid MEETS the JATCO spec which is a long number i cant remember. in mass ive looked around all i can find is a synthetic MOBIL1 ATF that states on the back of the label that it MEETS specs for IDEMITSU K17. runs like 8.99+tax a qt
on another note, it is said by others that upon initial drain of auto trans that only about 3-4 qts come out. this is because the fluid has its own path through lines and into a transmission fluid cooler. so while the case of the tranny drained, the cooler is still filled with old dirty fluid.
about half the total amount left in the system still. which will lead to overfilling it if you put back 8 qts in it, and cause to over flow during the fluid level check.
i thought i read something in a thread or maybe somewhere else but if i recall it mentioned something about disconnecting one of the transmission lines to or from the cooler. not sure if this would help the case or not, but JTIS shows a small "special" tool used to seperate the quick connect lines.
on another note, it is said by others that upon initial drain of auto trans that only about 3-4 qts come out. this is because the fluid has its own path through lines and into a transmission fluid cooler. so while the case of the tranny drained, the cooler is still filled with old dirty fluid.
about half the total amount left in the system still. which will lead to overfilling it if you put back 8 qts in it, and cause to over flow during the fluid level check.
i thought i read something in a thread or maybe somewhere else but if i recall it mentioned something about disconnecting one of the transmission lines to or from the cooler. not sure if this would help the case or not, but JTIS shows a small "special" tool used to seperate the quick connect lines.
#7
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#9
#10
I haven't been checking this forum for awhile. Just wanted to add a data point to this discussion since my post in March 2010.
I've had the Castrol Import ATF fluid since that time, now the car has over 110,000 miles. So I went from Jatco fluid -> Mercon V -> Castrol Import ATF using the drain and fill method.
Transmission is shifting fine, nothing blew up or started leaking. I will be doing another drain/fill near future.
I've had the Castrol Import ATF fluid since that time, now the car has over 110,000 miles. So I went from Jatco fluid -> Mercon V -> Castrol Import ATF using the drain and fill method.
Transmission is shifting fine, nothing blew up or started leaking. I will be doing another drain/fill near future.
#11
Hi. I see people are suggesting Jatco, Mercon, castrol, mobil, idemtsku standard etc as automatic transmission fluid. I have a 54 (late 2004?) reg Jag x type 3.0 litre petrol automatic. Will any of the fluids mentioned be suitable for the gearbox in this or will i need something different?
I drained the old fluid when i removed the transfer case, which people diagnosed, by my description as not working properly. Thanks for that. (see previous post, any of you who cannot get gears, only grinding). Only so much fluid came out. Therefore i am going to put that exact quantity back in and may check the level (as seen in descriptions, Thanks).
Thanks. Edd.
I drained the old fluid when i removed the transfer case, which people diagnosed, by my description as not working properly. Thanks for that. (see previous post, any of you who cannot get gears, only grinding). Only so much fluid came out. Therefore i am going to put that exact quantity back in and may check the level (as seen in descriptions, Thanks).
Thanks. Edd.
#14
Thanks for letting me know what a quart is. To simplify my earlier response. Are all automatic transmissions on the x type the same as regards oil specifications, no matter what the year or engine size?
I may be able to find the answer on the workshop manual, but that requires travelling to my parents house as we dont have windows on our computer and cant find a download that works. Thanks. Edd.
I may be able to find the answer on the workshop manual, but that requires travelling to my parents house as we dont have windows on our computer and cant find a download that works. Thanks. Edd.
#16
The X-Type uses the JATCO JF506E (same as VW 09A, Rover and Mazda etc.)
I work on a lot more VW 09A gearboxes than Jaguar JATCOs because people drive more Jettas and Beetles here in my area.
I have the ACE Hardware 8 quart translucent (white plastic) 'pump-up' garden sprayer converted to fill transmissions on any gearbox that requires filling from under the car (about $15.00 from the hardware store)
I don’t recommend the opaque ones because you can’t see the fluid level.
I removed the hose and ‘dip-tube’ from the plastic bottle fitting.
I got 6 or 8 feet of 3/8” translucent rigid hose to go all the way into the bottom of the bottle through the fitting hole. I slid the ‘O’ring onto the tubing and used the plastic retainer nut to seal the bottle.
The way I drain/refill the JF506E is the remove the plug from the bottom and then the plastic filler stand-pipe (both 5mm allen) to drain. (get an idea of how much fluid drains so you can put about that much back in plus a little to drain to the correct temp)
Re-install the oil level stand-pipe and attach a brass 1/8 pipe-taper 5/16” or 3/8” hose barb fitting.
The Brass 1/8”-28 is close enough to the 10mm X 1.00 that finger tight and a half turn will seal the fitting to the pan. The brass will not deform the pan threads for the plug.
Fill the gearbox with almost the same amount that drained. Start the engine and relieve the pressure from the bottle. If fluid starts to drain back near 30 degrees Centigrade, then remove the hose to keep the old fluid from contaminating the new fluid in the bottle.
Keep pumping if the fluid does not drip from the stand-pipe.
Like I said, I do several drain/refills a month on different cars so this is a time saver for me.
I clean the bottle with mineral spirits and compressed air between fluids since cross contamination is not good.
If I had enough demand for several different fluid types I would dedicate a bottle to each but cleanup is easy.
The pics are for the pump bottle and adapters. The brass 1/8-28 is for the bottom fed pans and the adapter in the lower part of the last pic is for the Jaguar ZF 5HP24 and 6HP26 side level plugs.
I just used a plug and drilled it for a 1/8-28 90 degree angle fitting to adapt to the tight fit of the Jag transmission in the tunnel.
Hope this helps explain the way it could be done.
bob gauff
I work on a lot more VW 09A gearboxes than Jaguar JATCOs because people drive more Jettas and Beetles here in my area.
I have the ACE Hardware 8 quart translucent (white plastic) 'pump-up' garden sprayer converted to fill transmissions on any gearbox that requires filling from under the car (about $15.00 from the hardware store)
I don’t recommend the opaque ones because you can’t see the fluid level.
I removed the hose and ‘dip-tube’ from the plastic bottle fitting.
I got 6 or 8 feet of 3/8” translucent rigid hose to go all the way into the bottom of the bottle through the fitting hole. I slid the ‘O’ring onto the tubing and used the plastic retainer nut to seal the bottle.
The way I drain/refill the JF506E is the remove the plug from the bottom and then the plastic filler stand-pipe (both 5mm allen) to drain. (get an idea of how much fluid drains so you can put about that much back in plus a little to drain to the correct temp)
Re-install the oil level stand-pipe and attach a brass 1/8 pipe-taper 5/16” or 3/8” hose barb fitting.
The Brass 1/8”-28 is close enough to the 10mm X 1.00 that finger tight and a half turn will seal the fitting to the pan. The brass will not deform the pan threads for the plug.
Fill the gearbox with almost the same amount that drained. Start the engine and relieve the pressure from the bottle. If fluid starts to drain back near 30 degrees Centigrade, then remove the hose to keep the old fluid from contaminating the new fluid in the bottle.
Keep pumping if the fluid does not drip from the stand-pipe.
Like I said, I do several drain/refills a month on different cars so this is a time saver for me.
I clean the bottle with mineral spirits and compressed air between fluids since cross contamination is not good.
If I had enough demand for several different fluid types I would dedicate a bottle to each but cleanup is easy.
The pics are for the pump bottle and adapters. The brass 1/8-28 is for the bottom fed pans and the adapter in the lower part of the last pic is for the Jaguar ZF 5HP24 and 6HP26 side level plugs.
I just used a plug and drilled it for a 1/8-28 90 degree angle fitting to adapt to the tight fit of the Jag transmission in the tunnel.
Hope this helps explain the way it could be done.
bob gauff
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fredd60 (06-06-2012)
#18
Opie oils
I looked around for the transmission fluid. I also looked for the transfer case oil. The transfer case i bought is empty. The seller claimed it had oil in but it was upside down when delivered so maybe it leaked out?
Anyone from the Uk who is looking for oils should give Opie oils a ring.
I contacted Jaguar at first. The atf alone was going to work out at £85+ for 5 litres.
At opie i paid £85.35 total for 5 litres of atf and 2 litres of transfer case fluid!!!
Happy days!
So two more oils to add to the list are.
To suit 54 reg Jaguar X type 3.0 litre V6 with automatic transmission,
Automatic transmission oil = Fuchs Titan atf 4400.
Transfer box oil = Gulf Competition Racing oil 75w-140 LS.
Anyone from the Uk who is looking for oils should give Opie oils a ring.
I contacted Jaguar at first. The atf alone was going to work out at £85+ for 5 litres.
At opie i paid £85.35 total for 5 litres of atf and 2 litres of transfer case fluid!!!
Happy days!
So two more oils to add to the list are.
To suit 54 reg Jaguar X type 3.0 litre V6 with automatic transmission,
Automatic transmission oil = Fuchs Titan atf 4400.
Transfer box oil = Gulf Competition Racing oil 75w-140 LS.
#19
Thanks for the help everyone.
I replaced the transfer box on my Jag.
The car is now back on the road.
To refill the transfer box, i held it upright.
Positioned it somewhere near level.
Took out the fill level plug (the lower one of two, which is visably sticking out from the case, with a square shaped indent in it.)
Removed top fill plug (on top of box).
Fill box until fluid pours out of level plug, then refit this and the top plug.
Then, with the transfer box back in place.
Park car on a slope, with front facing down hill
Raise and support front of car until it is somewhere near level.
Disconnect the battery
Remove from box
Remove battery box
Reconnect battery
Remove Plastic fill plug from top of transmission (situated near belt and
pulleys)
Position small plastic funnel into hole
Re fit battery, but not box
Fill transmission with four litres of atf
Remove funnel
Start car engine
Warm engine up until normal temperature
Put your foot on brake and hold down
Move the transmission shifter from park all the way along the shift channel to 2
Move it back again
Repeat process a few times.
(Do not take foot off footbrake until shifter is back in park!)
Leave engine running
Go under car
Remove transmission level plug
This is situated on the bottom of the transmission next to the cable that is used by the selector lever.
You will see that the cable goes under a plate bolted to the bottom of the transmission
The bolt is right next to this
I found that no fluid came out of the level plug
I re inserted bolt
Add more atf, 500ml at a time
I found 500ml extra to be enough
Undo level plug
If any fluid comes out, immediately put plug back in
There should now be enough fluid in the transmission
Thanks Edd.
I replaced the transfer box on my Jag.
The car is now back on the road.
To refill the transfer box, i held it upright.
Positioned it somewhere near level.
Took out the fill level plug (the lower one of two, which is visably sticking out from the case, with a square shaped indent in it.)
Removed top fill plug (on top of box).
Fill box until fluid pours out of level plug, then refit this and the top plug.
Then, with the transfer box back in place.
Park car on a slope, with front facing down hill
Raise and support front of car until it is somewhere near level.
Disconnect the battery
Remove from box
Remove battery box
Reconnect battery
Remove Plastic fill plug from top of transmission (situated near belt and
pulleys)
Position small plastic funnel into hole
Re fit battery, but not box
Fill transmission with four litres of atf
Remove funnel
Start car engine
Warm engine up until normal temperature
Put your foot on brake and hold down
Move the transmission shifter from park all the way along the shift channel to 2
Move it back again
Repeat process a few times.
(Do not take foot off footbrake until shifter is back in park!)
Leave engine running
Go under car
Remove transmission level plug
This is situated on the bottom of the transmission next to the cable that is used by the selector lever.
You will see that the cable goes under a plate bolted to the bottom of the transmission
The bolt is right next to this
I found that no fluid came out of the level plug
I re inserted bolt
Add more atf, 500ml at a time
I found 500ml extra to be enough
Undo level plug
If any fluid comes out, immediately put plug back in
There should now be enough fluid in the transmission
Thanks Edd.
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radikelly (02-26-2017)
#20
I forgot to mention that when the car has the front raised dont let the handbrake off at any time.
Remove a road wheel before jacking up.
If like me, you had to replace your transfer box, you should have already done this.
Also leave the jack under the car next to an axle stand supporting it
Raise the jack so that it goes tight up against the bottom of the car
Do not raise jack so much that the axle stand is not holding front
Position the road wheel under the car next to the jack
Position blocks of wood in between the wheel and the car
Leave the opposite front road wheel in place
Now, should the worst happen when you are under car, there is very little chance you will get crushed.
You wont need to get under the car completely
You may be able to just about be able to reach the level plug without the car raised.
Try this first before raising car
Make sure car is on level ground if you do it this way.
Thanks.
Edd
Remove a road wheel before jacking up.
If like me, you had to replace your transfer box, you should have already done this.
Also leave the jack under the car next to an axle stand supporting it
Raise the jack so that it goes tight up against the bottom of the car
Do not raise jack so much that the axle stand is not holding front
Position the road wheel under the car next to the jack
Position blocks of wood in between the wheel and the car
Leave the opposite front road wheel in place
Now, should the worst happen when you are under car, there is very little chance you will get crushed.
You wont need to get under the car completely
You may be able to just about be able to reach the level plug without the car raised.
Try this first before raising car
Make sure car is on level ground if you do it this way.
Thanks.
Edd
The following users liked this post:
radikelly (02-26-2017)