Sup all, just a few questions about some performance mods I've been looking at lately. Any info provided would be much appreciated. Considering I'm not a vet at this stuff and just recently took an interest in cars, you may have to speak to me as a newbie lol.
Air Intakes: Are there any reputable cold air intakes that will not only make my car sound better with the supercharger, but increase performance? I read somewhere that my make and model already has good reliable air intakes and most after market intakes don't increase your performance like they claim. I saw someone posted a video on another thread about a "Mina Gallery Intake Kit". Is that brand reputable? Because it sounds really nice in the video but ik sometimes sound doesn't always mean better performance.
Exhaust: I've saw a bunch of stuff about exhaust on here and I am curious as to which ones are helpful to the performance. I saw someone do a resonator delete which seemed super cool but maybe just a little too loud for me atm. So mainly just curious what other people got and how much it helped performance-wise, if any.
Tune: Is it worth it getting the VAP Tune with overdrive pulley, or is the TDI Tuning a better / more reputable brand? I also heard Darkside has good tuning, but that was just from a YT vid they made. If I'm not mistaken the TDI Tuning would be much easier because it doesn't 'remap' anything and it's relatively easy to install for someone who isn't very experienced at this stuff. Just wondering what other people did for this, cuz I just want to get the best bang for my buck. Especially considering the crank pulley alone is almost a thousand dollars lol. Also, is it common for people to get a tune and not get the advertised performance increase when it's tested on the dyno? I've saw a few videos about people falling short of the projected performance increase when on the dyno. Sometimes by a little and sometimes by a lot.
Vehicle Info - 2017 Jaguar XE 35t Premium (SC) (AWD)

 

I'm following this as well. I'm going to be buying my XE next month and I have about $2500 budgeted for performance mods. The +11% pulley and tune seems like the best option for performance. From what I gathered, a intake and exhaust combined might be good for an additional , that they are already good stock. Most people seem to change them out for a louder exhaust or with pod filters to make the supercharger wine.

 

An ECU tune and pulley upgrad will run you about 2500 w/ taxes. If you want to hear the sc a economical way to do that would be to remove the engine covers.

Mina Gallery has intake upgrades.

Exhaust upgrades are marketed a little more widely so any reputable automotive website should have them available.

TeKgnome, used car prices are currently way up in the states. If you can wait a few months you will get more for your money.

 

Not to hijack the thread but, What would you recommend for a good price for a Prestige? There's currently a few 35t 2017's around 25k on cars.com with sub 40k miles. It seemed like an okay deal but I'm not opposed to waiting.

Now back on topic.

Something else that OP might want to look at is some wider lightweight wheels with some wider tires. Not sure how much grip is an issue but going from factory to 9" wide cant hurt as long as its a quality wheel that isn't heavier.
There really isn't much of an aftermarket for performance mods. Id say a Intake, pulley, tune, and exhaust and call it a day. If it makes the advertised 453hp/436tq that's probably more than enough for a 4 door.

 

As far as used car prices I am not sure what the market conditions are in your area. As a previous post on here mentioned I would put together a spreadsheet of what you want vs what's available and what you are willing to shell out. The best advice I can offer is to take your time if you can. When you find the one you'll know it.

As far as rims go I stayed with the OEM 20" propellers and it's like being on rails with the AWD.

Good hunting.
Matt

 

Will,

I can only share with you what I have had success with.

Air Intake: I chose to use the Mina "Y" pipe to replace the constrictive factory rubber/plastic with good results at the sound level. I also replaced the factory filters with K&N direct replacements. Did not feel any noticeable power increase on the butt dyno, but I know I don't have to worry about constriction at full power.

Exhaust: I did the resonator delete, sounds tame at 3000rpm or less, but if you open her up under a bridge with the sunroof open, you'll for sure be pleased....

CPU program and Pulley: I did the VAP tune, the lower pulley replacement, and the VAP tranny tune. There is no other combination out there that developed the tune and tranny in testing TOGETHER, so this suite of upgrades really works well. I've put 40K on the car after the tune...no problems whatsoever, and really good support from Velocity AP. You do get what you pay for in this case for sure.

 

Austin,
So with the Mina Gallery pipe I can just keep the box and put in K&N filters and I will still get sc whine? Is it similar to the videos I see on youtube about the full Mina Gallery kit on the xe, because it sounds really nice with the full kit lol. Also, my model claims 340 bhp, just wondering with all your mods how much bhp you're at now on the dyno.

 

You will hear more sc whine with just the pipe, and a lot more whine if you also replace the factory air filter housings with cone filters. And of course remove your engine cover.

It's difficult for me to find the right dyno, my RWD requires some kind of Dyno Savant (the dyno must be a four wheel drive and must be mated front to rear, or you car will limp out on the dyno run.). So I don't have real numbers.

I can tell you I have more power and have demolished every mustang 5.0 I've encountered off the line. The XE is Really Really fun with 450HP.

I was also was really pleased when I was coming from a 40 mph roll on a frontage road yesterday, and when I stuck the throttle the rears broke loose easily and I serpentined the rears as long as I cared to. This car is a good drifter after the mods, for sure. ( First thing I do getting in my car is to kill the traction control.)

I believe the dyno numbers VAP have on the website for the RWD F-type with the AJ126, same exact 6cyl as our XE. It's an amazing improvement IMHO. I believe the below graph is with the ecu 415HP tune only, no pulley.

 

This video will give you the full whine -- I've got the Mina airbox delete + intake as well as the Tune/lower pulley replacement and hi-flow cats in this video.

 

Does anyone have any sort of 0-60 times or exact dyno numbers after their tunes and also is VAP able to remove your governor?

 

For hard numbers all I've seen is 1/4 mi, as in the video above where DOgvOm1t hit the 1/4 in the low 13's, and his best time I think was 12.56 at 112mph here:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...report-243815/

He mentioned his fastest 0-60 trap was 4.47 Sec, with less than ideal tires. With wider slicks you'd expect another .3 sec faster at least. Here a guy switches to slicks and gets .9 sec off his street tire time. (4.6 sec 0-60 (street tires) to a 3.7 sec (slicks) 0-60 in a 700Hp RWD Hellcat). So does this mean if we drag a hellcat in streets, are our tuned Jaguars faster to 60? These numbers say yes...and we don't have to wear the requisite wife-beaters.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=T_edelcPaP8

Yes, the VAP tuner will eliminate your speed governor. You can also have them disable the pesky engine start/stop feature at red lights as a feature of the tune.

 

Since I posted those numbers @Austin7 references, I've since had the tranny tune put on and swapped the rear tires for Michelin Pilot sports... Also finally nailed the running rich thing which was simply replacing MAF sensors that I'd ruined with oil based filters.

All that said -- I took it back to the drag and my numbers were actually worse. Granted, sooo many factors -- i.e. hotter day, winds, etc... but that said I expected at least a little bit of an uptick with the tranny tune. VAP suggested it could be a few things, belt slippage at the higher RPMS, etc... They offered to help diagnose if I bought the diagnostic cable. May get back to that at some point. Kind of hit my limit on the silly car expenses at the time.

BTW, I too tried a Dyno way back and same experience -- getting the car to not go into limp mode was a huge PITA. About the time you hit the gear/rpm you needed the car would blitz out. Then you have to turn it off, shut the doors for 5 min, lock it, pray to your deity of choice and then start over.

 

Hey DOgvOm1t,

I'm seriously going to try my stock y-pipe again after seeing this before and after dyno on a Jag XFR with a Mina Intake Pipe like ours. They lost like 20HP "upgrading" to the Mina.

My current theory is intake temps trump everything, and the rubberized walls of our stock intake y-pipes are way better insulators against heat seep from the engine compartment. You can see in the video they even had better numbers when they wrapped the Mina Pipe vs Naked Pipe. This, and heat seep from your cone filter areas may account for your losses.

I always ask myself "What changed" between my last performance test and the most recent tests, and try to reverse it if my more recent results were negative. Did you upgrade to cones between the two runs?

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=TpPgDtH3U8g

 

Amr Tune or euro toys both are doing sales, upper pulley only you don’t need the lower, Mina gallery intake filters with the aftermarket tube, spires or straight pipe exhaust and you’ll def feel a difference can also do lighter rotors and wheels….I have the same car! and then throw you a small bottle in the trunk 😂

 

Hello, I have gone through many stages of tuning, and here is what I discovered.

Air Intakes: It is true that the XE 35T has a GREAT intake setup from the factory. I would AVOID using cone air filters as they are going to pull HOTTER INTAKE air than stock. If you "need" to upgrade the intake, just get some K&N filters that replace the factory filters. The XE features a RAM AIR/COLD AIR INTAKE from the factory, don't defeat this. AVOID the Mina intake tube, it is known to steal HP. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=TpPgDtH3U8g

Exhaust: All I did was delete the mid resonator as they do in the F-Type from the factory. At idle is purrs like a kitten, you cannot tell. Only when you jam the accelerator will it roar.

Tune: I have done stage 1 thru stage 4 tunes from VAP. Velocityap is the #1 provider for aftermarket tunes on Jags and other very expensive brands. They know exactly what they are doing and have the best reputation in the biz. Their tunes are as advertised. I DON"T recommend doing just the top pulley...it is the most difficult to remove by FAR without damaging the shaft, you need a very specialized pulley puller to get it off, and it only changes the ratios by like 2%, so you get maybe 20 more hp with that pulley. If you replace the larger bottom pulley, you get much better gains, with a tune you'll get 450HP.

I cannot recommend the VAP E85 tune enough, I'm at a true 553 HP now. This tune requires upper and lower pulley replacement.

If you add power, you should also consider Aero improvements like a spoiler (Really helps at over 80.), and update your suspension with a good set of coilovers. I use the KW Variant 3's and it made a tremendous difference in handling and comfort. I now feel like I'm driving a super car similar to the Project 8, as I'm only 40HP short of its power now....

And finally...be sure to spend some money on some really good rubber, this makes a huge difference in handling and stopping. I use the Michelin Pilot 4s, very happy.

 

Hi I have the 17 35t xe awd first edition. I have had the intake upgraded spark plugs upgraded mag wheels and perillie p0s I've also put in 4prong performance spark plugs and had the tune with a bigger crankshaft pulley while we were changing pulleys I also upgraded my supercharger pulley and my belt all that has. Essentially turned the car into a rocket. I had to also upgrade the breaks to go completely custom because of the rear e. Break is tied in to the main computer and I didn't want to do a parking break delete the breaks were the most expensive part of the build at 6K the next thing I plan to do is performance camshaft because I've heard that my model tended to have camshaft issues as far as performance mufflers after my mechanic and I map everything out we decided the muffler's would be purely for sound. Splatoon kit I bought cost me $1,300 with the belt and the crankshaft pulley and the tune itself cost me $140 if you do do a tune I really suggest a break upgrade and probably a sports alignment which is a little more expensive than a regular alignment around $300 or so

 

I suggest you look into the Transmission Tune from velocityap, it raises clamping pressures and changes shift points as their tune also raises the redline and you'd want to take advantage of that, if your tune also raised redline.

 

Hi Austin 7!! Thank you so much for the info I did also have a trans tune as well as cat back and high flow onverters!!! Thank so much!

 

Question, how is the VAP transmission tune to live with when you are not driving hard? I get frustrated when the trans take forever to downshift, but when I when I am driving "sanely" I enjoy how smooth it is...

 

There are still two settings on the gearshift that work well. In 'D' it is a far more tame Cat, but you do get better shifting for speed if you bury the pedal. In 'S" it drives as aggressive as you like, and holds those gears longer. In 'D' you should still enjoy a good smooth experience if you're not jamming the pedal.