We purchased our 2015 XF 3.0 sport AWD new in late 2015. it's been a great car, that I have loved so much!!! we purchased one year extended warranty which expired Nov 18 2019. In September 2019, the gearbox completley failed. It was under warranty, they replaced it as well as gasket work, a coolant leak at the o-ring, by replacing o-ring. my husband mentioned when it was towed in for the gearbox he though he noticed coolant in garage, no warning lights. Fast forward from Sep until last week May 2019. No issues, everything seems smooth until the engine light came on. It was also time for an oil change, so I made the appt at the closest jag dealership(the one weve used the whole time but not the one we purchased it from). we live 2 hours away from the closest dealership. I only made it 15 miles from home when an awful sound started, and the red coolant light came on. within seconds, the rattle got worse as I started trying to find a safe place to pull off the road, the car totally died. Had it towed in & received a very bad report. The thermostat blew up & caused the engine to get hot which apparently damaged the engine beyond repair. according to the jag technician, this happened pretty quickly once the thermostat blew, the aluminum motor got too hot & needs to have whole engine replaced. The cost is $23,000. 😟 Obviously, that is more than the car is worth. Now we are stuck with a car that is worth nothing bcuz the engine is shot & selling it in parts is too time consuming. We are paying to have it towed to out home & I guess the next step is to have a non-jag mechanic take a look at it. weve looked at engines online, also very costly. Any suggestions on what to do? I realize it's just a car but it is heartbreaking as it's a beautiful car that I have loved, in great condition except for the most important part....
the engine!🙄 any long shots of jaguar assisting with it since there were issues in sep 2019 related to coolant when it was under warranty and supposed to have been fixed at that time? long shot I know.

 

Should have included 65,000 miles on it.

 

Best thing you could do is find a used engine and thats cheap enough. That or you could try to call insurance and at least recoup some of your money when they call it a total loss. Once these motors overheat, the warpage is not repairable as far as block is concerned. Heads can be replaced or milled but its still costly.

 

When I read a tale like this it is clear that Jaguar have to do a lot more work on reliability or they'll end up selling no cars at all. Something like this just should not happen on a 5 year old car with regular maintenance, and at a main agent as well. All I can suggest is that youi contact Jaguar to find out if they are prepared to make an offer of at least some goodwill, or even acknowledge the problem was entirely of their own making so they should assist with a significant part of the replacement engine.

 

its weird this happened to you because i got my car back from the dealership after replacing the thermostat because the seam was leaking.From now on ill change it every 3 years or if i see a leak .In the picture you can see the seem leak



in ct toms foreign aUTO PARTS HAVE 2 for 6000

sorry for your loss , iwould one from a salvage yard

 

I belong to the other Jaguar forum as well and a guy has just posed of a 2L diesel engine failure. Apparently due to no engine oil in the engine - very odd that one, but having the thermostat fail in such a catastrophic way on a car that isn't that old is strange to the say the least. I'd recommend having Jaguar answer for this and consider a goodwill warranty claim if outside of warranty. Sometimes what they do is pay 60% of the cost and have the owner of the dealer pay 20% and the owner 20%.

 

sorry Melwax..
Perhaps jgjc3 sold their Jaguar to cut loss?

Shame about the newer aj126 3.0 V6 engines suffering catastrophic failures; just like it's big brother 5.0's have done on rare occasion.

From my forum and cars.€om listings research, the older n/a V8's from x350 seem to run beyond 230k but I simply don't see that reliability beyond 130k in x351/x250/x260.

After reviewing hundreds of NHTSA complaints of these 3 models it's obvious that Jag has 3 serious low.mile defects with their s/c engines.
7th Water Pump Revision.
Thermo Seam Failure
Coolant Pipe Failure

Whereas BMW I-6 engines suffer oil & coolant issues, their V8's are long known for valve guide failures and now hotV turbo failures. Maserati are now seeing engine failures after just 6 years service.

Makes me sad as I love and respect these brands since my teen years in the 80's the new forced induction engines clearly are under-engineered vs their oiling / cooling needs.

Nearly all Jaguar owners rightly & stoutly defend and seem to deeply love their cats.
Perhaps no other car company offers such Space, Grace & Pace under $200k

 

Is there any preventive things we can do? my first thing I did was the thermastat

 

The issue with the AJ-V8 Gen 3 and its derivative V6 is the block casting has very short cooling jackets around the bottom of the cylinder walls, so any abrupt loss of coolant circulation means the block becomes very hot and then warps.

Given the amount of plastic parts used in the cooling system of most modern cars, the chance for a catastrophic failure increases with the age of the vehicles. The thermostat housing and rear cross over manifold on the AJ-V8 and V6 should be replaced whenever the coolant is replaced as they can only withstand a finite number of cold-to-hot-to-cold cycles before failing. In addition, whenever the vehicle is in for service either at a Jaguar main dealer, or at a specialist, the water pump and all plastic cooling system components should be inspected for seepage and leaks then replaced accordingly.

 

Thanks Newport!
Given the challenges of modern day CAFE requirements, it seems that forced induction and aluminum engines are here to stay.
And reading some of the failure threads on the i-Pace assures that future electric motors will still see certain crippling issues after petrol eventually dies.

That said would an 80k mile regimen of ZF fluid, diff fluids, coolant and above-referenced cooling component renewals likely yield post 200k running life in these blown AJ's?

I love the cars with them and wonder if long-term or used Jag buyers should simply budget the $3k every 80,000...
Cheers!

 

does anyone have a puic of the plastic tube that goes bad

 

There are several of these tubes, not just one.
The large cross-over tube at the front/top of the engine (easy to see), another cross-over tube at the rear underneath the SC (difficult to see), more tubes in the valley under the SC (impossible to see without removing the SC) and the small/thin expansion tank tubes across the front (easy to see).
They all go brittle with heat cycles and age and split/crack/leak.
Then there is the thermostat and the coolant pump and the associated O-rings which also fail/crack/leak.
And the expansion tank and it's cap.
It's a real crap shoot!
Lucky for me I have had only one of these fail so far (one of the thin expansion tank tubes) but it's time I started seriously thinking about changing the whole damn lot.

 

Hi, could you send me the thread to that post? It seems very similar to my experience from last week. I drive/drove a 2.5d AWD Sportbrake with 67k kms on it. After a long drive on the highway, the engine suddenly starts to rattle, no response to pedal, red oil warning comes on, battery warning comes on, engine dies within 10 seconds. Temperature was steady. I kept the power steering so could steer off the highway safely. Engine was completely stuck. I’m interested to hear how the story you refer to ended… thank u!

 

Just a quick FYI I have a 2010 5.0 XKR.... the cooling fan sensor went at about 80k miles-- thankfully got the water pump and thermostat replaced at the time the fan assembly was replaced. Last month, at 100K miles, the rear crossover pipe (referred to as the "coolant manifold") started leaking. Replacement requires removing the supercharger for access. Plan on about $2,000 for that job alone-- maybe less if it can be accessed more easily on these 3.0 engines.
It's shocking to me how there is no fix for such a consistent, obvious problem. Simple math:
seamed-plastic coolant parts + supercharged aluminum engine = disaster waiting to happen.

 

Wow, that's a ZF gearbox/transmission, one of the best gearbox/transmission there is, used by Aston Martin, Chevrolet, Alfa Romeo, Dodge, Jaguar Land Rover, Rolls Royce, Bentley, Ford and BMW just to name a few.

IMHO, I would suspect this Jag has been into a lot of excessive speeding.

 

I don't really understand the dealer's comment that the thermostat "blew up" and that's what caused the overheating. Thermostats do not blow up and AFAIK there is no mechanism for them to do so. Overheating can be caused by the thermostat sticking closed or by a coolant leak that completely empties the coolant. It looks like the latter may have happened in this case and I guess a leak at the thermostat unit seam (as illustrated by another poster) could have caused this loss, but it would have to have gone on for a long time to lose all the coolant. The other explanation might be a catastrophic loss of coolant from one of the plastic circulation pipes - this appears to be a known issue with one of the pipes splitting at a seam. This is a Jaguar design fault and, if the engine failure can be traced to this, Jaguar should at least contribute to the repair costs.

 

Hoping this helps fellow Jag drivers when they are confronted with the worst case scenario and need to make difficult choices, here's an update from my end: After evaluation the following expensive items DPF, both turbo's and catalyser need replacement. Only high cost items remaining to be checked are the fuel injectors, to be checked upon removal.

I considered 3 repair options: 1) sourcing a used engine and replacing it would probably be the cheapest option, but without any further guarantees; 2) replace the engine with an overhauled engine block and reinstalling all reusable parts, somewhat cheaper than new replacement but a better than new engine; 3) replace with new engine by the dealer, the most expensive option, but with 12 month warranty and a chance of goodwill payment. Turns out I chose option 4) replacing the engine block and rebuild engine by the dealer. So better than new engine, 12 month warranty and a goodwill as per above. It was a gamble, as I was not counting on goodwill as my car was out of warranty and my request initially rejected, but it seems there is a policy for these cases for cars that are less than 4 years old.

As for the cause of the damage, it is clear that one of the turbo's was 'blown' as result of overheating, causing a chain of events that led to the disaster. The overheating is likely caused by bad lubrication due to polluted oil. This pollution is caused by regenerations of the DPF. The dirt that is released with these regenerations, gets into the oil causing bad lubrication of the turbos (among the rest of the engine) over a period of time.
In addition, overheating may have deformed the turbo parts (housing, impeller). The turbos are fragile parts and need to be cooled properly (read: slowly). So as is likely in my case, if I drive at high speed and take a break (but you could also drive into a traffic jam), I need to keep the engine running for several minutes before switching off allowing it to cool down. But as soon as I park the car, the Start-Stop switches off the engine immediately. The turbo may cool down too rapidly and deforms. This goes well for a long time (in my case 67K kms) but it causes damage over time.

So, tip from the dealer: always switch off the Start-Stop and after a long ride allow your engine to cool for several minutes before switching off. The Start-Stop function is only there to meet the environmental regulations. In addition, keep your oil level full and change your oil frequently (you can never have enough oil changes!). If I was only told when I bought it...

 

They did redo all the plastic cooling parts. You can tell the updated ones from the failure prone factory parts very easy. All the factory plastic stuff has very large square fat seams where it was ultrasonically welded together. This was not a good way to do it!!

Here is a thread with some pictures of the current updated plastic parts.
Plastic Cooling Parts

Here is one where I post both parts so you can see the difference.
Plastic Cooling Parts Pictures

Now read that thread because that guy spent all the time and money only to install the old failure prone parts.
DO NOT INSTALL THE OLD STYLE PARTS!!!!
They will fail and this is guaranteed!
.
.
.