Hi All,

Trying to get educated on wheel fitment. Does anyone have experience with aftermarket wheel fitment? Specifically, what is the minimum amount of offset that I can run? Is it the same on all 4 corners?

Stock is an 8.5 inch wide wheel w/ 20 inch diameter and a +49 offset (meaning the face of the wheel is almost flush with the outside edge of the rim). Ideally, I'd like to have a bit more concavity to the wheel. A quick call to the preferred aftermarket wheel manufacturer suggested that the front is likely going to require a higher offset number. Guessing this has to do with the larger brake caliper?

Worth mentioning that it's always frustrated me a little bit that the outside of the rim edge on the stock setup is pretty far inset into the wheel well. I get that it needs clearance for suspension travel and wheel turn up front, but stock seems a bit overkill. Also, I have a set of one season old Michelin Pilot Sport 4s summer tires (255 35 R20) that I'd like to mount on the new wheels. Right now angling at Vossen VFS-2 wheels in gloss black.

Appreciate any and all thoughts/suggestions!

Thanks guys!

JJ

 

Ill try to help -

I don't have the exact answer on min/max offset allowed for the XF X260, I haven't taken the measurements. My best guess would be around et30-32 on a 8.5-9.0" wheel. You can stagger offsets, as in, you do not need to match all 4. Lots of people run lower ET's in the rear to exaggerate a wider track look.

Just remember that wheel width and offset will have an effect on 3 main things: Inner wheel edge to suspension, outer wheel/tire edge clearance to body(fender) and brake caliper to inside face of wheel clearance. One thing I like to do is visit a wheel recycler or OEM parts catalog, or ebay, etc anywhere that shows a variety of OEM wheels - and research/document all OEM wheels for a given trim/model. Sometimes the OEM options will vary in spec for the same car, and this gives you some safety zones to work in as you begin your search. Be mindful of concavity and spoke design and its influence on clearance. A certain wheel with more or less concavity and the same specs might have different clearances of the brakes. You can even extend your search to cars in the same family of wheels. For example, many guys look at F-Type, XJ, F-Pace specs to get something that will bolt up but provide for their preferred spec. This still gives you some insight into what will fit on the stock setup as many of these cars share brake & suspension design. Lastly, Camber can effect clearance, but this is more advanced. I wouldn't suggest adjusting camber just to allow for wheel fitment. But its a thing and people do it.

Fronts typically require more forgiving offsets due to brake clearance of the larger front calipers, and also a narrower track and body lines. Keep in mind you can always run a spacer (try to get a dual centric version, one that centers on the hub, and your new wheel) Any spacer over 10mm usually requires longer studs. Spacers help when you run higher ET wheels and need to clear brakes, inner suspension parts, or achieve a wider stance/look.Some people think they are unsafe or add wear to the bearings. Im not so sure, but I always try to start with the best width ET possible, and if I have to, correct or adjust with a spacer when there's no other option.

My wheels (OZ) are 20x8.5" (stock spec) and et45 (-4.0mm) from stock. This gives me effectliy more "poke" or a wider stance relative to the fender. I tried mounting some H&R spacers today because even with this increase in wheel offset, I still find the wheels to be too far inside the wheel well like you mentioned. My hub centric rings on my OZ's didn't seat nicely to the spacers I had lying around, so this was a no go for me.



Alternatively, most wheel manufacturers will provide you with a template of the wheel you want to purchase. You can print this out and trace it on some card stock and go out to the car and use it to test fit for brake clearance by placing it on your hub. Or do what I do, and take some measurements of the stock setup and try to operate within the confines of them. (ruler against fender, measure distance from ruler to wheel face, measure distance from inner spokes to caliper etc).

Last thing to always remember when comparing wheels, is to be mindful of the relationship between width and offset when both are changing. Take a change in wheel width, in inches, and divide it by two then convert it to mm. This then "acts" like an effective change in offset. Because offset is measured from the centerline of the wheel. Half of your width change effects inner clearance, and the other half, outer clearance. Then to conceptualize the change in appearance. add or deduct this distance to offset of the current wheel setup. This will effectively let you compare the total change in FINAL et, from current wheel to new wheel. not just wheel-to-wheel ET.
EX: going up to a 9" wheel with an et49, would be similar to a final et of 42.7. ( 0.5" / 2 = 0.25", or 6.3mm). of your stock wheel. The new wheel is indeed 9" et49, but your net change from stock is still technically a change in total offset. Just something to be mindful of when changing a setup's wheel width AND offset.

Lastly, don't forget to watch for centerbore. Most aftermarket companies "bore big", so you can fill the larger hole with a centering ring to match OEM. Some wheels are meant for other applications (like VW/Audi which is 57.1mm CB.) In that case you would need a spacer with an adaptive centerbore, or have your wheel machined out to the Jag spec (63.4 I think?). Usually when you provide your Year, Make, Model, the systems account for this and only wheels at 63.4 or larger qualify. But always double check. Ive had wheels show up that don't fit because it wasn't listed and I um.... assumed the CB would fit.

​​​​​​​There is not a lot of 5x108 stuff out there for us. So stock sized aftermarket wheels or oem+ upgrades are usually easier to come by. Otherwise, plenty of $1000-1250 per wheel places out there that will make you something custom. (CCW, Forgestar) I for whatever reason, just can't get behind spending that much on wheels. Maybe it because I live in Chicago and don't want to bend one. But Ive also had great wheels for $1400-$1600 a set on other cars, and its hard for me to adjust to the higher threshold. Either way - the typical rules apply. Affordable, High quality, Light/Material. Pick 2, you aren't likely to get all 3! I have found if I want to get wheels for my XFR-S, at 20x10.5 in 5x108, I likely need to shell up some major coin because there are not a lot of pre-made wheels out there in those specs, for this bolt pattern. The joys of having cars that aren't as popular

 

You might like to consider Coventry Whitley wheels, see here: https://www.coventrywheels.com/Jagua...-rims-whitley/
I fitted a set of staggered 20" in Hypersilver to my old XFS and then swapped them to my XFR and they fitted perfectly and looked great on both cars.
I even tried them on my F-Type just to test what they looked like (while I still had the old XFR) and again perfect fit and great looks.
One of the things I really liked about them was the deep dish on the rears, it's almost impossible to find any other Jag fitting wheels with such a dish.
I would have kept them except the eventual buyer of the XFR preferred them over the stock Nevis.
They are the proper 5 x 108 PCD and centre bore out of the box and you have a choice of three different offsets for the rear 10" (+25, +39, +45) but only one (+35) for the front 8.5" but +35 is perfect to bring them out by 14 mm.

 

Thanks for the feedback DeviLSh & OzXFR.

Thought I'd share what I've learned and the final decision:

• 5x108 bolt pattern is fairly unique to JLR and as such limits the number of manufacturers that can produce a wheel that will work.
• The suspension and brake geometry significantly limits the amount of offset and wheel width options - particularly up front where I basically added 0.5 inch of width and -17mm of offset from stock. Still a relatively flat face, but the wheels don't sit as far into the wheel wells. I would have preferred a little more concavity to the front, but its just not in the cards w/out modifications that I was not comfortable exploring (the aforementioned spacers being one option).

The Wheels:

• 20" Vossen HF3 (Hybrid Forged) in Gloss Black
• Fronts: 9" wide, +32ET (offset)
• Rears: 9.5" wide, +40ET (deep concave)

Still getting used to the new look which is a bit more aggressive than stock and perhaps an affront to the 'Grace' part of Jaguar. Nevertheless, I consider bringing the edge of the wheels further out and inline w/ the body a visual win, along with the concave in the rear which helps accentuate the hips. I've retained the stock wheels as my winter set.

JJ

 

Looks great Jack! Any more pics to share from other angles?

 

The other thing worth mentioning is that the 255 pilot sport 4s tires are a bit stretched on the 9.5” wheels on the rear. Still within safety margins based on my research, and actually stiffens the sidewall and therefore improves handling a bit. That said, it’s a ‘look’ and I’m not sure I’m here for it. Might consider a slightly wider tire for the rears in a couple seasons. At a minimum to give the rim a little extra curb rash protection!

 

Looks FANTASTIC!

I see you are in Dynamic mode in the last pic too

 

Thanks! Great pictures from Tail of the Dragon btw!

I've been spending quite a bit of time in dynamic since the summer tires joined the party again. After a long winter on soft rubber, it's like a reward.

 

What's the tip there? LED? Need the secrets!

 

Devin’s got a good eye - tack moves to the center in the dash binnacle w/ red background.

 

Ah! Of course. I'm on my phone and the last photo was a rear quarter exterior shot.