I’m planning on slowly purchasing a collection of all the coolant pipes and hoses for my XF for when the hoses fail but I’m not able to find the Y-pipe for sale for the 2016 model year. It’s strange that the part fits ‘13-‘20 model years but is not compatible with it’s the ‘16. There is no y-pipe for sale for the 2016 at any dealer, it seems. Can someone please advise as to why that could be?

Thanks!

 

Is this what you are looking for? It is made of metal. Much durable than plastic pipes. It is not listed for a 2016 but take a look & compare to what you have on your car.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/22489388594...caAgbcEALw_wcB

 

I’m not sure what I have in the car since I have not seen which pipe is currently installed. Nothing is leaking; I’m just buying all the pipes for the future. Perhaps the previous owner of the car had some of the pipes replaced. I messaged the seller for confirmation.

 

When buying a used Jaguar with S/C engines. If it has a high mileage engine, always ask & check the Water Pump and Water Coolant Pipes if they have been replaced from the seller.
I frequently visit the other forums on this site especially the XJ (351) & the F-Type forums and these are the most common problems on Jaguar S/C engines that the members on this forum are always talking about.

 

Wow. Looks like it's well worth the price. Has anyone tried it yet? I hope I never have to make the choice

 

Hello. It's always been in the topic of other Jaguar models in this forum. I haven't read or probably missed the topic of a plastic pipe replacement to metal pipes on the XF260. But on other models, it's been a constant discussion about this topic.
Here's a link of of them. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...ailure-193012/

 

Oh God yes.
Had to have the "rear crossover pipe" replaced on the XKR'S SC 5.0 and the price was about $2,000. You have to remove the supercharger to get at it, and that thing's a BEAST. (And yep had the water pump replaced. Under warranty, thankfully).

Also, and to make matters worse (Part 1): aluminum engines do NOT take well to overheating, and that's what we're working with here. Some guys have said their engines were never quite the same. FYI, you will get a yellow "system overheating" warning before a red one. STOP before you get the red one. When it happened to me I was advised to have the car towed to the dealer, even though it had not actually overheated and there was no coolant leak. It's that big a deal.
Part 2: ...so of COURSE Jaguar decided not to have a temp gauge on these cars.

 

My car came with one standard. It may not show degrees but it lets you know when it's heating up beyond normal in graduations .... and the lights (yellow and red) let you know when it's getting critical. The advice to stop when it gets to "yellow" is right on. I've driven my car hard (95 mph on cruise, more for passing) for hours in 100+F temperature and the gauge always stayed at the same position.

 

Is this something you access on the touchscreen? I don't think it's on the main screen-- I've got a 2018 XF Sportbrake with the "technology package" so the gauge cluster is digital and customizable.

 

I can't imagine that they'd remove the temperature sending unit just because you have the digital display so I'm betting you can access it. Mine is customizable as well but not like yours. The gauge starts out with a pointer going straight down to 6:00 and moves clockwise as the motor heats up until it's at 9:00 when at full operating temperature. Once warmed up I've never had it move from the 9:00 position no matter what the outside temperature is.

 

Actually no it doesn't. If your car even has a temperature gauge anymore?

That is the problem. Your car has an indicator NOT a gauge. Key difference is Jaguar made the indicator nice and smooth so it moves very little. Problem with this is when you have a coolant leak and the engine over heats you have no indication or time to shut things down. We have dozens of threads with the same statement; The car never overheated and the temperature gauge did not move or moved very little.

This was done as the average driver gets stupider and stupider. Jaguar had many service visits because drivers saw the temperature gauge moving around and thought they had a problem. So Jaguar and the other manufacturer's fixed that by damping the reading so much that the gauge rarely moves. Remember we are entering into self driving cars because the decline of any driving skills.

Same idea why the dip sticks for the engine oil and transmission fluid were removed. Nobody bothered checking fluid levels anyway plus it was a way for dirt and contamination to get in the engine/transmissions. Heck even now where you don't even need to get out of the car to check engine oil levels very few do.

What will really blow your mind is there is no way to measure oil pressure in the 5.0L V-8! To do it you must find somewhere and drill and tap to add a sensor. I think the 3.0L does have one?
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I've seen this analogy before and don't understand it. It's like saying a clock with no numbers on it isn't a clock. You know what the full operating temperature is and there's marks that graduate the temperature up to that point. Divide the temperature by the marks and you know how much temperature rise each mark represents ..... no? Personally I would prefer the numbers but what does that tell you? Is 10F over the normal bad? How about 30F? That's what the light/message is for. Not arguing, just saying I understand the logic behind it.

 

I fully agree with what your saying but they have "Engineered" this to be an indicator and NOT a gauge.

I wish I could find the thread but what they did was make a VERY non-linear gauge. So it's NOT a gauge anymore because the screwed with the scales. In fact there are no scales which is another big red flag! So the indicator moves up as the engine comes to operating temperature. Just as always. Now here is where the magic comes in! In the middle of the gauge the temperature can increase about 50+ degrees F and the needle won't move! Yes they damped the response so it stays in the middle range until a very high temperature like 230+ F. Then it's too late.

That's why I posted many people have over heated their engines and never saw the gauge move!
Found it! Note this is an earlier XK model but nothing I can find says Jaguar has done anything different with the temperature gauge on later models.
Jaguar Temperature Gauge Readings

Here is the great chart he made documenting this. It's not something Jaguar will even admit to either.
This shows the value of this forum and it's member's when we have someone who will do this level of investigation and then document it for the rest of us!



Note the flat line in the middle of the chart.
Now do you get it?

This is why myself and others run the Torque Pro app as with that you can monitor real engine coolant temperatures in real time and as always you will see quite a bit of movement of the temperature reading. You can even set an audible alarm if the temperature gets over a certain value. So you don't need to be watching the Android display unless you want to. This can be a engine saver for very little money. Plus you can use the TP app to get codes and monitor other special Jaguar only functions.

Sad that Jaguar removed real gauges from their cars. Note my comment above about oil pressure on the 5.0L engine.
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OK, now I get it. So all this time I thought the engine management was maintaining a constant temperature it could have been +/- 40 degrees F. I bet that saved them many warranty visits where they would just say "until the yellow light comes on it's OK" and by then if you didn't notice it and shut off the engine right away it was toast. Not good.

 

Yea until I read that linked thread I could not understand how people were over heating their engines and claiming the temperature gauge did not show the over heating. I ASSUMED (Big mistake I know!) that they simply were not watching the temperature gauge. But the real answer was FAR different!
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Interesting thoughts!
Yes, a lot of guys on the XK forum use the Torque app. I never went that route.

A few responses:
I first worked on cars when radiator cooling fans were mechanical (if the engine's on, the fan's turning, and YES you could get your hand whacked bad). Now, fans have clutches and are sensor-activated, and some cooling systems have more than one thermostat. The result: operating temperature is quite constant. A car idling in traffic in an Arizona summer should maintain the same temp as that same car on the highway in a Minnesota winter. So, 95% of the time, that gauge needle should get about to the middle of the hashmarks and stay there regardless of what they represent.
But one day you're driving along, get stuck in traffic, and you notice that gauge floating slowly up. Bad news. You pull onto a highway, increase speed, and the needle slowly settles back down to halfway. That tells you your issue is likely the fan temp sensor/activator (embedded in the fan assembly, BTW, so the whole assembly will need replacing. Ask me how much that will cost). The fact that it settled back to halfway tells you the thermostat is working OK. If you can stay at mostly highway speed and get yourself to a good mechanic, you should be OK-- and you can do this because there's a gauge communicating with you that you can monitor.
BUT... suppose you get on the highway and it keeps going up? (First, PULL OVER. This is decidedly bad news.) Your issue is almost certainly coolant loss, and any more driving is a bad idea. It may also be a thermostat issue (another known issue on these cars), but those tend to stick open and not closed.
That's the value of a gauge. As clubairth says, real-time useful information.

I had an oil pressure gauge on my old SL500. Idling on a hot day that thing went pretty close to 0-- but as soon as the RPM's went back up the needle went back up as well. All is good (I sold that SL wtih about 140,000 miles on it and it was still going strong.)
It's what the gauge was communicating that mattered.

And yes, if you use Jaguar's logic, that graphic above from Clubarth makes sense. They're offering information on a "need to know" basis and they figure all the driver needs to know is: "warming up" (160 and below), "OK," (170-230) and "PROBLEM!" (240 and above).

Sadly, that is all most drivers really want to know these days-- and the critical fourth category, "heading toward a problem, get this checked" is not there.

And don't get me started on the whole "no dipstick" nonsense. On the other hand, these engines have incredibly easy oil changes, so there's that.

 

Well explained!

 

Well, it’s time to use all the coolant pipes I bought, along with a new water pump.

58k miles and the water pump is leaking; got the low coolant warning while driving, pulled over and was towed home. I’m replacing the plastic pipes under the supercharger with metal ones. The water outlet pipe behind the engine is still plastic, but hopefully the new one can hold up for a while. I will have the supercharger coupler and oil changed and am tuning the ECU for 400HP after I’m comfortable that the cooling system is solid.

Wish me luck!

 

Curious why you didn't just replace the water pump although I salute you for your preventive maintenance.

 

Are you going to also replace the plastic tube that goes into the oil cooler? It is now out in Aluminum and not too expensive either at about $15.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/394038540741

Your in there anyway.
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