When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I’d like some advice please.
I own a 2017 XF with about 150.000km on the clock.
Today I took it for a compression test.
One of the cylinders is at 89% as shown.
The guy at the jag dealership advice was: there are no spare parts to fix the issue, so I recommend swapping the engine for a new one 😬😬😬
I’d like some advice please.
I own a 2017 XF with about 150.000km on the clock.
Today I took it for a compression test.
One of the cylinders is at 89% as shown.
The guy at the jag dealership advice was: there are no spare parts to fix the issue, so I recommend swapping the engine for a new one 😬😬😬
Your ideas on the subject…
thanks a lot guys
No parts for a 2017? What's the problem? Gas? Diesel? Symptoms?
No parts for a 2017? What's the problem? Gas? Diesel? Symptoms?
Other than some fumes and a light oil splatter coming out of the oil rod casement when you pull out the oil rod there are no detectable symptoms.
no smoke, no power loss, nothing!
And yet, the jag dealership engineer swears the engine ha s to be swapped cause there are no parts to fix it…
If you're not experiencing any problems why do anything? If the motor really needs to replaced get as much out of it as you can before then. I'm not a Jag mechanic, don't know what your mechanic sees, nor understand why he can't get parts for a 2017 motor, but something isn't right. If it bothers you get a second opinion. Don't tell them what this mechanic said beforehand. You can probably get an Indy mechanic to just do a compression test for a lot less than a dealer would charge you. If they still do compression tests like I'm use to there's room for error so I'd even doubt what you show. Also ..... if 10% down in one cylinder doesn't produce any symptoms can it be that bad?
I agree with mleskovar. I am not a mechanic either but a DIY person. Like what he said get a second opinion from another dealer or preferably a Jag or Land Rover specialist. Mechanics are like doctors, you need a 2nd or a 3rd opinion. Maybe, that one cylinder just needs new piston rings. If the dealer is saying there are no parts available, how can someone rebuild these engines. Are these throw-aways? Maybe they are trying to sell you a new engine that costs more than the car itself. I just searched and there are parts available on diesel Ingeniums. Of course just the worn out parts should be replaced but the good ones can be still usable. https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/...s-c102x4152352
I agree with mleskovar. I am not a mechanic either but a DIY person. Like what he said get a second opinion from another dealer or preferably a Jag specialist. Mechanics are like doctors, you need a 2nd or a 3rd opinion. If the dealer is saying there are no parts available, how can someone rebuild these engines. Are these throw-aways? Maybe they are trying to sell you an engine that costs more than the car itself. I just searched and there are parts available on diesel Ingeniums. https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/...s-c102x4152352
That is a fact indeed.
I thank you a lot for your time doing the research needed to give that link.
I owe you one!
Thanks a lot again.
Well if it was my car/engine I would run it and stop worrying!
Here is a professional engine builders answer and it's the rule of thumb I have heard for decades. As long as the highest and lowest reading cylinders are within 20% and the engine appears to be running OK. The engine does NOT need replacing or rebuilding (yet!). Compression Testing
Just one more comment? You should always get a print out with the actual psi readings they measured. Each model of engine will have slightly different readings and that is normal.
100% of what? Factory rating? What is that?
Otherwise you really have no way of knowing what was done or even IF it was done?
.
.
.
Well if it was my car/engine I would run it and stop worrying!
Here is a professional engine builders answer and it's the rule of thumb I have heard for decades. As long as the highest and lowest reading cylinders are within 20% and the engine appears to be running OK. The engine does NOT need replacing or rebuilding (yet!). Compression Testing
Just one more comment? You should always get a print out with the actual psi readings they measured. Each model of engine will have slightly different readings and that is normal.
100% of what? Factory rating? What is that?
Otherwise you really have no way of knowing what was done or even IF it was done?
.
.
.
“Thank you sir.
That’s a very good point of view of the issue.
Nowadays seems like the dealership just want to get your bill as high as possible.
One thing is for sure. These Ingenium engines aren’t known for their reliability….
Thanks for your time sir. “.
And I have a question: if the engine is running great and is smoke free, as you say, why was a compression test performed at all? What were you worried about? Is that a diesel thing?
And I have a question: if the engine is running great and is smoke free, as you say, why was a compression test performed at all? What were you worried about? Is that a diesel thing?
Good morning sir.
I performed and engine compression test because one fine day, while pulling out the dipstick rod I noticed some fumes and light splatters coming out of the dipstick hole…
Its seemed kinda odd IMO.
So I took the car to the jag dealership and they advised a compression test. And “voilà” 🙄
Its true that I don’t notice any lack of power, or smoke or anything similar. But I didn’t buy the car new, so it could be the the problem already existed…
Yes. If you're not experiencing any reduction in power, gas mileage, tailpipe smoke, or excessive oil seepage. Decades ago they use to let the crankcase pressure vent to the atmosphere but smog laws stopped that. Now it's recirculated through the combustion process but there's still pressure.
Really??? 😬😬😬
How to you you do a manual oil check then?
What if the oil sensor fails?
Yep, the AJ133 V8 and AJ126 V6 have never had an oil dipstick and there is no way to do a manual oil level check short of draining the sump and measuring how much comes out.
And although the oil level sensor and dash readout are reasonably reliable it is not unknown for one or other to give a false reading or fail.
Yep, the AJ133 V8 and AJ126 V6 have never had an oil dipstick and there is no way to do a manual oil level check short of draining the sump and measuring how much comes out.
And although the oil level sensor and dash readout are reasonably reliable it is not unknown for one or other to give a false reading or fail.
I just can’t seem to understand the brand’s policy. I mean, a dipstick is not that expensive or hard to cramp in a free space in the engine…
And still they chose not to do it, placing the owner in a tight spot when push comes to shove…
So why would they increase their build cost by adding the sensor, wiring, and associated support electronics to replace a simple system that's reliable and accurate? #1 It's easier for the owner so it becomes a 'feature'. #2 It keeps the owner out of the engine bay. There was a study done years ago that showed many warranty calls were self inflicted by owners going under the hood. Most people on this forum would prefer the old dipstick but we're car aficionados. The average person doesn't check oil at all using the dipstick so for the majority of owners they just wait for the oil warning light/message to illuminate before doing the check and many of those don't know where a dipstick is, what to look for, or how to use it, or just don't want to possibly get dirty with all that yucky stuff under the hood.