I think you have a 100,000 mile warranty on the drivetrain...They would have talked $$$$ by now if it was gonna cost you anything, which I doubt it will..Maybe for new oil, and coolant, but that should be about it.


I think this is better news than them trying to repair the old engine..I can bet that the new engine is better, if not like a new engine....I know it will look and should run better than new...




Most dealers will make damn sure not to wreck anything else in the process, like scratch the paint...they gotta be careful...Rest easy and go with it.

 

I'm not surprised. The symptoms were consistent with piston wrist pin knocking.

A remanufactured engine is going to be at least as good as a new one. To remanufacture an engine it is disassembled and then all damaged parts are either re machined to as new specification or replaced with new parts as necessary. The remanufactured engine is indistinguishable from newly assembled and if the block is cast iron (which Jaguars are not) the previously stressed block would be stronger than a brand new casting.

As for the relatively low mileage I point out that my V6 SC was just replaced at 15,000 km for a very similar knocking noise.

The chances of getting two bad engines successively are minuscule. So having a new engine fitted under warranty is a good thing not a drawback.

Engine replacement is much easier for a shop mechanic than R&R with a rebuild as well as far cheaper. The work takes a long time because of all the connections that must be made correctly but the technical aspects are not complex for a skilled mechanic.

The only way I could tell mine had been replaced was a few oily fingerprints in the dust on the plastic engine cover which was transferred from old to new. Technically, not even fingerprints as mechanics wear neoprene gloves these days.

 

No worries as Re manufactured addresses the known problems with the engine in re assembly such as updated parts or procedures. And be vocal about your concerns, If you ask all they can say is no, but your a PREMIUM BRAND buyer that's why you own a Jag, make sure they know this. I got my 1991 5.0 Mustang bought back by Ford, in addition they.
Let me order a 1991 5.0 GT at no additional charge
Gave me a 100k mi warr (FREE)
Made 3 of my car payments (The wait time for my new GT)
And gave me a Ford racing jacket..lol
But ya gotta speak up as to what you want!

 

Jaguar will cover if its certified. Even if it isnt a reman. Engine. At this point i'm not sure if the remans are available on the 5.0l or not. Under factory when you get a fred approval they want to use a reman engine but they always put a brand new engine in.

 

wow, I had a similar sound coming from my engine too. When I brought it, they told me it was normal and suggested that I did their fuel injector cleaning. I went to Walmart and bought some Seafoam and the Royal Purple fuel system cleaner. I put the Seafoam in the engine, and thought I ****ed it up since it didn't start the first couple times trying to crank it, and of course the fuel system cleaner, and the engine started running like it was brand new. The ticking either went away or got a lot quieter. This was about a month ago, and I'm about due for an oil change. I also started adding octane booster to my fuel, and it's helped too. I think I'm going to keep adding it every fill up for now on.

 

Following up just got my car back.

Got my car back with the new engine and the sound is gone. I was amazed how quiet my car is now on idle you cant hear a thing. When I was sitting inside I couldn't tell if the car was even on, that's how quiet it was for a 5.0! Opening the hood all I hear are the direct injectors, no more of that loud clicking / knocking.

I talked to the mechanic, the jaguar service reps and mechanic told me its brand new and I questioned because on the warranty book it says re-manufactured. They told me because the engine is fairly new they don't have many re-manufactured 5.0L engines...what ever Jaguar has they send it to them and so what was available was a brand new engine. Who knows.. but if that's what they told me I'l just stick with it.

I asked the mechanic what the problem was he told me low oil pressure. They did not take the time to isolate the real failure because I guess it would take more time to overhaul it. They just sent the data to Jaguar and got the engine approved so I am more happier with a new engine anyways. Everything covered under my extended Jag CPO warranty. The mechanic showed me how much it would cost if I was paying and he had $25,000 CAD calculated / written on the work order...thats crazy!

I didnt get to give it a good drive yet as I have some work to do at home but tomorrow after work I am ganna give it some good tests. From today's initial tests it feels pretty good, I used the paddles once on some deceleration down shifts...they were pretty smooth surprisingly. Almost always I would get a jerk/lurch on 3rd to 2nd down shift (at 2k RPM) but the 1 time i tried it today it was smooth. I am so happy to have my Jag back...missed it so much.

Now with the new engine should I drive it conservatively to let it break-in? Or is that all a myth. I want to have some little fun now its been so long haha.

 

That is good news...


Myth or not, it is common sense to take it easy on the engine for the first 1000 miles..don't maintain long periods of steady speeds, vary it some and try to keep the RPM's under 4K also.


Just relax and enjoy it till it's broke in....I would even change the oil and filter in a few thousand miles too....IMHO, money well spent.

 

As mentioned above, do not hold a steady RPM for 500 or so but here is where I differ.

You drive the car in the beginning as you would drive the car normally.

If you baby the engine in the "break in" period, it can wear the bearings in a certain way that when you do finally open her up, it can cause loads in ways that have not seen them.

The builder that built my last 500hp 4 cylinder turbo told me to get it running, check levels, pressures and temps then take it out to the back roads and do 4 runs from a stop. Set low boost (12 psi) then First run, get it rolling and then go 20% throttle in 3rd gear to 5k and then let off gas and let engine pull you down to speed. second run same start and then in 3rd go 50% throttle to 6k then off gas and let it decel on engine. Third same story but go 75% to 7k with same slow down and finally same start and in third go full throttle to red line and let it pull you down.

But this was a brand new, first start up.

Your engine was already broke in my the factory and dealer.

Just drive it normally for you.

 

I disagree with your method for this car, You can't compare a supped up rice burner to a 5.0L V8 on that kind of a break-in...


But I will agree, just drive it normal but take it easy as I said before..the engine may only have a few factory hours of break-in time but not any more than that..Remember, it is a BRAND New Engine, so treat like one or you may regret it sooner than later...why rush it?

 

Having owned super high horsepower four bangers and V8s, my method is always the same for break in based on my engine builders. Keep it easy, first oil change at 500 miles to get any metal shavings out, rock the throttle on the highway / don't maintain one RPM to seat the piston rings, no high RPM our redline until about 1500 miles, do another oil change to synthetic and then rip on it.

 

One other tip is don't let it get too hot. I agree with varying the rpm and no high rpm. But you do want to give it a longer pull from time to time to put some load on the engine. Just don't start too low in rpm or go too high in rpm. Good midrange pulls.

 

Break in is to set the rings, it has nothing to do with the bearings which are not supposed to wear at all. Varying rpm during break in is a good practice in order to ensure the "no wear ridge" that forms at the top of each cylinder bore is at the very top of the piston travel. That is due to ring seating.

With an automatic car you break in a new engine by driving normally and avoiding two things: high rpm so do not use the paddles, and high load so do not use full throttle except very occasionally. During break in of around 1,000 miles or 1,500 km avoid using high rpm and high load at the same time. You are trying to seat the rings without overheating the contact areas.

If you leave the transmission in D and stay out of the kick down range of the throttle pedal for the first 1,000 miles your engine will eventually develop more power and last longer than if you run high rpm or full throttle.

My new replacement V6 SC has 700 miles on it so far and at 1,000 miles it will receive several full throttle redline runs but not before.

Mass produced engines are not run in at the factory, the only mileage they get is from the assembly line to the dealership lot, about 10 miles usually.

 

This is very good advice, especially for the high output versions of this engine. Supercharged engines use very hard rings and you want some loading on the rings during break in. You are trying to load the rings enough to seat firmly and seal fully without overheating the ring contact surfaces. Higher throttle loadings help seat the rings but also increase contact pressure so risk overheating the ring contact surface. If you are trying to seat the rings with higher throttle loadings don't also run higher rpm at the same time. When using higher rpm during break in to help seat the rings run the engine up with a light throttle. Using both techniques separately during break in minimizes ring seating time and maximizes the seal for long engine life and high power.

It isn't possible to lug engines connected to modern automatic transmissions as they downshift whether you like it or not. Using the paddles in dynamic mode could lead to "over revving" in the sense that the engine can run on the limiter which is a no no during break in.

 

There must be an echo in this thread...

 

Hey guys in case you were wondering you should vary the engine load so that the piston rings will seat. I don't think anyone has mentioned that in this thread so far.

 

Thanks everyone good tips I appreciate it!