so i had some error codes - was suggested to go to JagPro-NY
He tested everything - some adjustments….
2 months ago I had dealer install new battery 50k miles.

Wake up this am its dead- I mean no lights- no horn- nothing-
jumped it started right up = drove it at 90 mph for 30 min.

literally 3 days ago I had battery load tested and alternator checked -
fuel pumps check - complete 2-3 hours looking for problems- none electrical.

any thoughts? I really trust this guy in ny- search jag pro martin ny.
but i fell something might be drawing off battery or running when car is shut down

 

and NO the key is nowhere near the car and I do press "lock" to shut it down.
making me nuts-

 

I've moved your post to the XF section so you should get more help.
It's a good idea to put your car details in your signature (user CP> edit signature) to make them easier to find.

 

Others have reported a fault with the ICE software not shutting down properly and draining the battery. There is supposed to be a software update fix.

The other possibility is remote but explains your symptoms. If the battery cable ends were not thoroughly cleaned when the new battery was installed and the battery posts and cables were not sealed against moisture with Vaseline or silicone spray then after a few weeks enough oxidation of the lead battery posts could occur to prevent a start. Boosting normally attaches to the cables so this problem would be masked. Batteries are sometimes tested at the posts so the load test does not always reveal this fault. Sometimes, the proper load test isn't even done and voltage only is tested which also won't reveal this problem.

I assume the cables were properly installed, tight but not over tightened. Paradoxically, too much torque on the cable bolts can put enough pressure on the lead posts that they deform and some time later the cable becomes loose allowing air in which causes this corrosion. Lead oxide is not a good conductor.

 

To get a good check on a battery, get a hygrometer from most any auto parts store. It will check each individual cell. You may have one or more weak or bad, which may, or may not, show on a voltage test.

 

I would have the battery rechecked. If you haven't this problem before and now you do with the new battery, that would be my first stop. We talked about this in another post and I had a simular problem with another car after I changed the battery. I found out that even though the battery was never used before and came right out of inventory, it was 3 years old. Friend of mine looked up the code on the battery which tells the month/year it was made. I did another test and placed this battery into my wifes car and even though it had been charged at the dealer and used for the whole day, the following evening, her car was totally dead. I replaced the battery and never had another problem until I traded the car in. Just food for thought..

 

Hygrometer testing sealed for life batteries can be tricky. Some have cell covers very difficult to remove. A proper battery load test is the most reliable way to check a battery as it duplicates the starter load. The key indicator is battery voltage immediately after the starter load has been applied and ended. Anything much below 9 volts means that the battery is toast even if it can recover to 12 volts and restart the car. Even if all cells test ok. The battery is on its way out.

 

can someone explain ICE software?
I guarantee u i bring it to jag they say "alternator"
I am in NY and these guys are out of control-
had one dealership say' Normal to change antifreeze every 2 years"

 

You can do some simple tests with a voltmeter.
With ignition off and the boot light disabled remove the +ve lead from the battery and put the meter set to 'amps' between the lead and the +ve post so all current is going through it.
This isn't 'my' car but I'd expect you to see about 50 mA after a few minutes.
If the draw remains higher than that then you've got a drain somewhere - which could be due to the 'not going to sleep' bug or something silly like the glove box light.
The other thing is to measure the battery voltage - remember to come out of the 'Amps' range or you'll get a big bang - with the ignition on and engine off and with the engine running.
If you want to post the drain + voltages here someone will advise.

 

Sorry, ICE = In Car Entertainment system. The industry calls it that. I used to call it a radio.

And it is normal to change antifreeze every to two years except if you have long life coolant in the engine which Jaguar does. That long life stuff can last for ten years.

 

in truth- since the new battery- i THINK now its all about the "shut down process"-

if I hit lock - the car goes to sleep= come down in am- starts right up,
If i leave "auto lights" or something on leave car overnight (lights off) i think something is drawing on it .

in 6k i need rotors on rear and will Have jag pro do the voltmeter test that was suggested- he said he did it and all was PERFECT.


Im not bashing jag- its been the most trouble free car i have ever had- again from ford to merceded to bmw to toyota- all bought or leased new.
im bashing the NY dealerships… dont mind "paying up" for qualified service but they KNEW (for instance) i had 100k antifreeze and suggested change at 30k- when tested it was 88%

jag pro - says forgot manual- at 60k
change ALL fluids - trans- antifreeze - plugs etc +++++ appprox $1000,
will ask for break down
he charged 220 for front pads which i think is abt what the dealer charges-
BUT i know it was done correctly.

(yes i know cost of pads cheap- I own a hammer in condo- i can make a hole in a wall)

tks for all your responses.

 

The XF does seem to drain the battery faster than most cars I've dealt with. I feel that locking it no matter where it is parked is key. The infotainment system doesn't seem to shut down right way unless the doors are locked. I store it during the winter so I have a battery maintainer on it now. I let the car sit for two weeks before i put the maintainer on it and the battery was all the way down to 30%.

A trans flush is probably a few hundred. Maybe $300-400 at the dealer. Oil changes seem to be in the $100 range as some have stated. I'd think plugs would be about $100 total with labor unless they are difficult to get to for some reason (I haven't done it yet). Antifreeze would be relatively cheap since it should only be a drain and refill ($30 fluid plus labor?). I don't think $1000 is absurd but I'd do it myself so I'd never think of paying that.

$220 for front pads (parts and labor) is probably about right.

 

I think the 1000- is high
but he said all fluids- differential etc etc etc
cleans the injectors- in some jaguar machine with fluid (or something)
truly didn't think he was ripping me - didn't think he was cheap either-
everything but timing belt.

and I agree with u- if I could do it - I would.
Just the gas filter- required putting on a lift and literally unbolting the right rear casing above the tire-

these