2009 XF Supercharged Engine Removal
#1
2009 XF Supercharged Engine Removal
Hello fellow Jag enthusiasts!
I just became the proud new owner of a 2009 Jaguar XF Supercharged project. I purchased the car knowing it had significant engine issues and so wasn't surprised when I discovered a hole in the pan caused by a rod. The PO took the XF on a "spirited" run when it was low on oil, the rest is history.
I am now embarking on removing the engine and know the shop manual recommends dropping the transmission and pulling the engine from the top. Since my garage has limited space I was hoping I could support the transmission and have enough room to pull the engine forward and out the top. Anyone done this before, advice would be greatly appreciated!
I plan to take many pictures and post for future owners who suffer the same misfortune
Thanks!
I just became the proud new owner of a 2009 Jaguar XF Supercharged project. I purchased the car knowing it had significant engine issues and so wasn't surprised when I discovered a hole in the pan caused by a rod. The PO took the XF on a "spirited" run when it was low on oil, the rest is history.
I am now embarking on removing the engine and know the shop manual recommends dropping the transmission and pulling the engine from the top. Since my garage has limited space I was hoping I could support the transmission and have enough room to pull the engine forward and out the top. Anyone done this before, advice would be greatly appreciated!
I plan to take many pictures and post for future owners who suffer the same misfortune
Thanks!
#6
I've started the engine removal. Unfortunately, the engine is seized due to the rod failure and therefore can't spin the flywheel to access the torque converter bolts. I've decided the easiest way to get the motor out is to drop it and the transmission as a unit with the subframe.
Here are some pics of my progress so far.
#7
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#10
Those numbers aren't too bad.
The dash is a tough one. Since it's what everyone in the car is looking at all the time, you can't not fix it if you want to take pride in the car. But that can add another $3-4K just for the new OEM dash part, which you'll need if you want it to look factory perfect.
If you are ok with slight imperfections, you can get away with re-gluing it for next to nothing.
I just did a boat load of work on my grey XF yesterday, and even though the resale of these cars is just as crazy bad as all the other European luxury cars, it's a worthy car to keep running and looking good.
The dash is a tough one. Since it's what everyone in the car is looking at all the time, you can't not fix it if you want to take pride in the car. But that can add another $3-4K just for the new OEM dash part, which you'll need if you want it to look factory perfect.
If you are ok with slight imperfections, you can get away with re-gluing it for next to nothing.
I just did a boat load of work on my grey XF yesterday, and even though the resale of these cars is just as crazy bad as all the other European luxury cars, it's a worthy car to keep running and looking good.
Last edited by lotusespritse; 05-28-2018 at 09:50 AM.
#11
I've started the engine removal. Unfortunately, the engine is seized due to the rod failure and therefore can't spin the flywheel to access the torque converter bolts. I've decided the easiest way to get the motor out is to drop it and the transmission as a unit with the subframe.
Here are some pics of my progress so far.
#15
I see it now..lol Shouldn't be a big deal for you at all then, that would be my preferred method if I had access to the equipment.
#16
I've made some progress and plan to have the engine and transmission out this weekend. The removal is complicated by the fact the crank is seized and I still can't get it to move even after removing the pan to access the crank bolts.....I need to turn the engine to access the torque converter bolts but it looks like I will have to pull the motor off the transmission with the converter attached.
The subframe is off and the engine is hanging off a support bar. All in all the engine removal hasn't been too bad thus far.
Here are some pics of the carnage:
The subframe is off and the engine is hanging off a support bar. All in all the engine removal hasn't been too bad thus far.
Here are some pics of the carnage:
#18
#19
I'm making slow progress. Most mechanics would have had the motor out and the new one in by now... but I'm not a mechanic
I'm learning as I go and this has been a great learning experience.
The engine is officially out:
I've started to work on the replacement engine. The salvage yard did not take care and damaged the wiring harness, the most concerning is the locking mechanism for the ECM plug. I've already replaced the spark plugs and coils.
The hardest parts in removing the engine were disconnecting the tie rod ends, the bolts refused to let go and I ended up cutting them off; the power steering pump was a pain and the catalytic converter bolts (ended up breaking one stud).
Once I got the engine down it took me over a week to separate the transmission. The engine was seized and I couldn't turn the crank to access the torque converter bolts. I ended up disconnecting the timing chains, removing both oil pans, disconnecting all the rod bolts, and unbolting the main bearing carrier. Even after all that it took a lot of effort to spin the crank..
The most important tools I purchased were:
MAPP Gas Torch:
This little torch has enough power to break loose the transmission locating pins and harmonic balancer bolt.
My ATV lift is very versatile:
and ofcourse, my favourite tool is my MaxJax lift!
I'm learning as I go and this has been a great learning experience.
The engine is officially out:
I've started to work on the replacement engine. The salvage yard did not take care and damaged the wiring harness, the most concerning is the locking mechanism for the ECM plug. I've already replaced the spark plugs and coils.
The hardest parts in removing the engine were disconnecting the tie rod ends, the bolts refused to let go and I ended up cutting them off; the power steering pump was a pain and the catalytic converter bolts (ended up breaking one stud).
Once I got the engine down it took me over a week to separate the transmission. The engine was seized and I couldn't turn the crank to access the torque converter bolts. I ended up disconnecting the timing chains, removing both oil pans, disconnecting all the rod bolts, and unbolting the main bearing carrier. Even after all that it took a lot of effort to spin the crank..
The most important tools I purchased were:
MAPP Gas Torch:
This little torch has enough power to break loose the transmission locating pins and harmonic balancer bolt.
My ATV lift is very versatile:
and ofcourse, my favourite tool is my MaxJax lift!