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I have a 2012 Jaguar XF (it has the slot for the key under the steering wheel) The car won't start, trouble began a few months ago, pressing start did nothing, pressing it again started the car. This went on for a while until one day the car refused to start at all. I changed all the key fob batteries and also the main car battery. Still nothing. Changed the brake switch nothing. Car powers on but engine does nothing. Took the car to the local independent garage, and they sent me the following pictures from the fault diagnostics. They tried to clear teh errors but as they are not the dealer they could not. So the car is on it's way to the dealer. Does anyone know what's up seeing these pics and what do you think the main dealer may say?
Most of those are just low battery voltage, the dozens of modules in the car will complain they can't talk on the network in those conditions.
Originally Posted by aviduser
trouble began a few months ago, pressing start did nothing, pressing it again started the car.
The brake pedal has to be pressed way too hard on these cars to start them, but if this isn't the case of that, continuing to drive with a crap battery can eventually damage components.
Changing the battery without following OEM replacement routine can cause the keys to no longer be recognized.
If you take it to the dealer, a four figure bill is almost guaranteed as extortion to get this over complicated car started. Strongly suggest you find an independent mechanic specializing in JLR products or at least European imports who have the diagnostic tools to deal with the electronics on this thing,
Have you tried to change the battery?! You’ll be surprised what a new battery will do to these modern cars. Man good luck! Keep us informed ans I hope you have an extended warranty as well.⚔️💎
I had a similar issue with my 2010. I was having issues with the dealership so I personally ran a diagnostic, most of the errors yours's show mine had in addition to more sensor issues. When I first press the brake and then start button, the dash lights up but nothing else happens. A few tries to start and the dash is red, still no distinguishing sounds. I changed the brake sensor and was looking at the shift module when I heard of a shop that only focusses on British cars. I had the car hauled to them and after a few nights of testing, the owner traced my issue to the board in the starter that ended up causing a mess with the rest of the system including a burnt out starter. Funny thing there was no fuses burnt out.
There is sound advice posted before me but don't be surprised it is something completely unexpected.
So let's see. It's at the main dealer who in this country are known as NOTRIOUS THEIVES. So let's see what they say. I've read the forum posts listed above and many people have had good luck with clearing issues with their own cables and software so I threw down $35 for a cable. I'll have a go myself if they want too much cash.
OK, so dealer has come back saying I need front and rear fuse boxes changed, total cost 2800 Quid. Anyone ever heard this before, not the cost but the need to change BOTH?
I refused, as I don't have 2800 quid to spend right now, will take to another independent garage and see what they say first.
Dealers and independents alike know that most customers haven't got a clue how anything works under the hood of a car and thus they can pretty much get away with telling customers anything. They also count on the fact that most customers just want their car back right away and will approve them to proceed with the work rather than spending the time and money to tow their car somewhere else for a second or even a third estimate. But with that kind of quote, I would bet its worth spending the money to tow it elsewhere. Just don't tell the new shop what the first shop said, rather act like they're the first to look at it. That way if they do come up with the same conclusion, then you know that's what it is. If you tell them what the dealer said, they'll focus in on that and likely come up with the same conclusion, especially if they realize that they can reconnect a loose ground wire to fix your problem and charge you not just one, but two fuse boxes because that's what you've already been lead to believe. It does seem quite implausible, or at least it does here where I am, fuse boxes rarely even see 50% humidity let alone get wet. Good luck.
OK, so dealer has come back saying I need front and rear fuse boxes changed, total cost 2800 Quid. Anyone ever heard this before, not the cost but the need to change BOTH?...
Sounds like £2,800 of guesswork on the part of the main dealer.
Before going any further, use a voltmeter to check the available battery voltage across the terminals with the ignition in the OFF position. There must be a minimum of 12.6 volts available before further diagnostic work can be performed accurately. If there is less than 12.6 volts shown on the voltmeter, charge the battery for five hours at 2 to 5 amps and check the voltage again. If the voltmeter still indicates less than 12.6 volts, then the battery is suspect.
If you do have 12.6 or more volts indicated by the voltmeter, start checking the wiring loom and connections for corrosion or damage. Check the boot as well to determine if there is moisture present.
There is a TSB about this but it only applies to x250 facelift cars, I'm not sure which model you have, but here's the TSB for reference
There is a work around for this that a few specilists in the UK can perform, but you need a certain type of diagnostic tool.
Thought I'd update I hate reading threads where there is no resolution!!
I took the car to another independent garage and they have got the car working. They believe the imboliser was at fault. I'm not 100% sure if they changed the imboliser but in the diagnostic report from the garage they say the following:
The vehicle was checked by multiple master electricans and the conclusion was that the fuse boxes are ok, and that the vehicle is not responding electronically to its keys. - The batteries of the keys were replaced and the vehicle still did not start. - The vehicle was moved to a Jaguar/Land Rover programmer and rechecked. The remote function acutator (RFA), security system, steering lock, and keys were reprogrammed, and the vehicle was functioning again. - The certain reason for this is unknown. It could be due a battery replacement, theft attempt, parked vehicle for a long period with a drained battery, or having multiple Jaguar keys for different cars present in the vehicle which caused confusion in the systems.
Cost was 650 quid. So 2000 quid cheaper than the dealer quoted.
For all I know, they simply reset the imboliser !! but if they changed the BCM and reprogrammed everything then hopefully I won't see the problem again. SO moral of the story get a second opinion!!!
Thanks for all your help and in future I will charge the battery while I change it.
Dealers and independents alike know that most customers haven't got a clue how anything works under the hood of a car and thus they can pretty much get away with telling customers anything. They also count on the fact that most customers just want their car back right away and will approve them to proceed with the work rather than spending the time and money to tow their car somewhere else for a second or even a third estimate. But with that kind of quote, I would bet its worth spending the money to tow it elsewhere. Just don't tell the new shop what the first shop said, rather act like they're the first to look at it. That way if they do come up with the same conclusion, then you know that's what it is. If you tell them what the dealer said, they'll focus in on that and likely come up with the same conclusion, especially if they realize that they can reconnect a loose ground wire to fix your problem and charge you not just one, but two fuse boxes because that's what you've already been lead to believe. It does seem quite implausible, or at least it does here where I am, fuse boxes rarely even see 50% humidity let alone get wet. Good luck.
I did read somewhere that the front fuse box can get wet due to the washer fluid reservoir leaking. Just throwing in my novice two cents worth
It sounds like thay did what they do in the UK for £90 basically re-pairing the immobiliser to the car. I would suggest if you disconnect the battery again you can get a cable that plugs into the obd & has leads that connect to a slave battery.
Interesting! The TSB says do NOT use a hot air gun to dry the connections out. But just put the connectors facing down and let them drain for 24 hours. I have never seen that in writing and have used hot air guns for decades?
It even says doing so will cause further damage.
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If you take it to the dealer, a four figure bill is almost guaranteed as extortion to get this over complicated car started. Strongly suggest you find an independent mechanic specializing in JLR products or at least European imports who have the diagnostic tools to deal with the electronics on this thing,
Ouch. Didn't expect being bitten so hard by 'over-engineered' disease.
Well, i've tallied quite a list of fault codes recently.
Someone breathes on this car......
I can't check the oil (succeeded once or again years ago)....
be nice to be able....
"oh, just.........."
(sure).
i'm in Erie, PA (a car trip from MA to an extended stay in Texas).
Pulled into the T/A and parked for breakfast.
Went to start it: Cranks over with plenty of juice but does not turn on.
Anyone know anyone who can put a diagnostic tool on an XF in Erie?
update:
btw, sorry for hijacking a fine thread.
i detest posting a new thread of an identical topic on a low/med production vehicle.
i have my problem narrowed down to either the L pressure fuel pump (in the tank),
or the fuel pump relay.
Last edited by odurandina; 08-13-2023 at 08:26 PM.
01-20-2022, 02:56 AM
2012 Jaguar XF won't start
