2012 XF Portfolio
#1
2012 XF Portfolio
I just got a 2012 XF Portfolio in British Racing Green metallic with a beige interior. The car has 43k kms( say 27k miles) from new. It has had a hard life but I think it will turn out well. I know this thread is "incomplete" without pics. They will follow within a day or two. In the meantime it is a real pleasure to put a wrench on stuff and know it is not rusted up.
So oil change tomorrow, if I find some 5W20 Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and a suitable oil filter, check air filters, service brakes and all that good stuff.
So oil change tomorrow, if I find some 5W20 Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and a suitable oil filter, check air filters, service brakes and all that good stuff.
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Yuriy V (02-13-2022)
#2
get you an extractor pump from harbor freight
changes your oil in about 10 mins no need to get under the car.. I also got an 83 to 95 mm oil filter wrench since I couldn't find that socket to remove it
go to rock auto and get all the filter or Amazon.. I got them all pretty cheap,, oil,, air,, and cabin filters
changes your oil in about 10 mins no need to get under the car.. I also got an 83 to 95 mm oil filter wrench since I couldn't find that socket to remove it
go to rock auto and get all the filter or Amazon.. I got them all pretty cheap,, oil,, air,, and cabin filters
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Six Rotors (10-21-2020)
#3
#7
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#8
I know, I am approaching 77 years. However it will keep me active over the winter and it does not have covid-19 virus so close contact is ok.
#9
#10
it's basically gonna be easier for me to pay a detail shop a couple 100s to restore my paint
but after thats done i guess it'll he easier for me to maintain it
#12
Yes I have been following your threads for a few weeks. I am hoping that I will miss the timing chain issue because of frequent oil changes and relatively low distance travelled. As far as I can see the car still has the original water pump, whereas all the other cars I looked at had the water pump changed at least once and in one case 3 times.
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hen555 (03-11-2021)
#13
Looking Underneath
I decided to to look underneath the car while I wait for my oil extraction vacuum rig to arrive. No real trouble with fasteners but there is surface rust on the regular carbon steel parts. I removed the bottom bolts on the shock absorbers and coated them with anti rust so they don't rust with the bush centres. I plan to remove and paint the rear tie bar.
When I do the oil change I plan to evacuate the oil using the vac tool and I will check to see how much oil remains in the sump by draining it through the drain plug. Depending on the amount I may change the oil from underneath in future.
under shields
hp fuel pumps look easy to get at
tie bar to be removed and repainted
This car also has the new style diff with separate drain and fill ports---nice!
When I do the oil change I plan to evacuate the oil using the vac tool and I will check to see how much oil remains in the sump by draining it through the drain plug. Depending on the amount I may change the oil from underneath in future.
under shields
hp fuel pumps look easy to get at
tie bar to be removed and repainted
This car also has the new style diff with separate drain and fill ports---nice!
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hen555 (03-11-2021)
#14
Yes the amount of oil drained has been compared before and the claim was it's an oz or two different at the most.
I did not know that there were rear diffs without the two plugs? At least on the E-diff models.
But yes it's nice. Still can't figure out why Jaguar put different heads on them?
Here is my thread on the rear diff change.
2014 XJR Rear Diff Oil Change
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.
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I did not know that there were rear diffs without the two plugs? At least on the E-diff models.
But yes it's nice. Still can't figure out why Jaguar put different heads on them?
Here is my thread on the rear diff change.
2014 XJR Rear Diff Oil Change
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.
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hen555 (03-11-2021)
#16
I got these coming in
got them reaaallly cheap with coupons and free this and that and percentage discounts from carid...
any experience with these? what about proper break in? where i live there's not alot of open road to get up to 45 and down the way they want to do it and if there is you do have to do alot of breaking to get to that kind of open road..
got them reaaallly cheap with coupons and free this and that and percentage discounts from carid...
any experience with these? what about proper break in? where i live there's not alot of open road to get up to 45 and down the way they want to do it and if there is you do have to do alot of breaking to get to that kind of open road..
#17
No experience with them. On my 2004 Vanden Plas, I have factory rotors and Akebono ceramic pads and I just followed similar procedure as you describe. I don't think it matters if you go a few miles to find the right road. The idea is not to glaze the surface before you bed them in properly.
Last edited by Six Rotors; 10-31-2020 at 09:00 AM.
#18
The Oil Change.
So I assembled all the stuff to do my oil change, in fact I have oil and filters for the next 4years!! So this so easy, ran the engine up to warm the oil ,opened the hood ,removed the engine cover ,removed oil filler cap, partially unscrewed the oil filter cover and attached my oil extractor tube to the tube in the oil filler neck and went for a cup of tea. Came back removed oil filter cover and oil filter, pumped my vacuum pump by hand, watched the oil drain out, emptied my old oil into container, extracted last of the oil from engine. Add the new oil, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W20, approximately 6 L, start engine run for a minute, shut off wait for 10mins, check oil level and top up as required and check oil level again.
Note that I bought the 5.5L oil extractor because it was half the price of the 8 L version, emptying the container twice instead of once -not a problem.
I have attached pics below.
back off oil filter cover
hook up oil extractor tube
out comes the oil
old and the new
don't forget to clean the mess out of here
Oh I forgot to mention the total cost for one oil change is $60 Canadian (the cost of the oil extractor written off over 10 oil changes)
Note that I bought the 5.5L oil extractor because it was half the price of the 8 L version, emptying the container twice instead of once -not a problem.
I have attached pics below.
back off oil filter cover
hook up oil extractor tube
out comes the oil
old and the new
don't forget to clean the mess out of here
Oh I forgot to mention the total cost for one oil change is $60 Canadian (the cost of the oil extractor written off over 10 oil changes)
Last edited by Six Rotors; 10-31-2020 at 02:59 PM.
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mrNewt (08-20-2021)
#19
Congrats on the 2012....seems like you got it from a JLR dealership too so likely no major issues to worry about.
Surprised you got it for so low KM --that is insane. I change my oil twice a year because the engines are very sensitive to any sludge build up. You will be screwed if you get sludge as it is possible cause for the tension guide chains issue. When I first got my 2012 XF as a CPO from JLR dealership, I got it in 2014 at 78K KM around and soon after I had a problem with the engine making a knocking / clicking noise. CPO warranty covered engine replacment so I got a newer engine now...mechanic could only tell me that they found low engine oil pressure and no other info...maybe it was the timing guides but my CPO did have complimentary oil changes on it which is like once a year according to JLR...seems too high. After 2012 the 5.0 V8s got an update. You likely have the older 5.0L so make sure to change that oil even more frequently. Since you are doing yourself maybe 3 times a year depending on your driving.
Make sure to drive the card hard and not baby it because to try and prevent carbon build up on the intake manifold since its Direct Injection.
I had experienced my Coolant Pipe issues cracking leaking coolant at around the 130-150K KM mark i believe. It is just due to the Cyclic cooling winter and summer seasons and affects other cars too including Audi. IF you see LOW COOLANT warning try your best to safely stop somewhere and shutof engine. There are stories on this forum of Range Rover 5.0L same engine blowing due to low coolant warning and continuing to drive. Check coolant level under hood...if coolant is depleted then leak if not then its the sensor in the tank which is another common issue. I changed my tank at 160K KM due to this. Change the tank assy which includes the sensor in it....since it gets brittle over time too.
2012 is one of the best models for the XF due to the 5.0L V8 and updated facelift. To me, nothing beats the sound and experience driving a V8 -- but in todays world we will have to switch to another engine choice most likely for our next cars.
Surprised you got it for so low KM --that is insane. I change my oil twice a year because the engines are very sensitive to any sludge build up. You will be screwed if you get sludge as it is possible cause for the tension guide chains issue. When I first got my 2012 XF as a CPO from JLR dealership, I got it in 2014 at 78K KM around and soon after I had a problem with the engine making a knocking / clicking noise. CPO warranty covered engine replacment so I got a newer engine now...mechanic could only tell me that they found low engine oil pressure and no other info...maybe it was the timing guides but my CPO did have complimentary oil changes on it which is like once a year according to JLR...seems too high. After 2012 the 5.0 V8s got an update. You likely have the older 5.0L so make sure to change that oil even more frequently. Since you are doing yourself maybe 3 times a year depending on your driving.
Make sure to drive the card hard and not baby it because to try and prevent carbon build up on the intake manifold since its Direct Injection.
I had experienced my Coolant Pipe issues cracking leaking coolant at around the 130-150K KM mark i believe. It is just due to the Cyclic cooling winter and summer seasons and affects other cars too including Audi. IF you see LOW COOLANT warning try your best to safely stop somewhere and shutof engine. There are stories on this forum of Range Rover 5.0L same engine blowing due to low coolant warning and continuing to drive. Check coolant level under hood...if coolant is depleted then leak if not then its the sensor in the tank which is another common issue. I changed my tank at 160K KM due to this. Change the tank assy which includes the sensor in it....since it gets brittle over time too.
2012 is one of the best models for the XF due to the 5.0L V8 and updated facelift. To me, nothing beats the sound and experience driving a V8 -- but in todays world we will have to switch to another engine choice most likely for our next cars.
Last edited by hen555; 11-03-2020 at 03:37 PM.
#20
No this was a private sale. The car had 2 owners and was maintained by the selling Jaguar dealer for the first 5 years and 34k kms. The second owner had it for 2years and did 10k kms and 2 oil changes. I have owned 3 Jaguars and all have been maintained by me except for tire changes and wheel alignments. I have IDS and SDD and a real VCM so I have the technology. The car runs and drives nicely but not as comfortable as my Vanden Plas. Anyway so far so good.
Today I removed all the plastic undertrays so I can rustproof the metal underneath-----brake pipes and battery feed on the passenger side and fuel pipes on the drivers side.
Today I removed all the plastic undertrays so I can rustproof the metal underneath-----brake pipes and battery feed on the passenger side and fuel pipes on the drivers side.