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No they changed what they printed on the oil caps on all the cars. My 2014 has 5w-20 on the oil fill cap. This was changed to 0w-20 a year or two later. Jaguar did not say very much when they made this change. Not sure why not but it may have to do with trying to not admit to anything because of law suits. Also note some lawyers are publishing a successful class action law suit against JLR for timing problems in the 2012-2014 Land Rovers.
I don't know but I think the lawyers could easily point to Jaguar's oil change recommendation as an admission of fault. I mean why change the oil spec UNLESS there was some reason??
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No they changed what they printed on the oil caps on all the cars. My 2014 has 5w-20 on the oil fill cap. This was changed to 0w-20 a year or two later. Jaguar did not say very much when they made this change. Not sure why not but it may have to do with trying to not admit to anything because of law suits. Also note some lawyers are publishing a successful class action law suit against JLR for timing problems in the 2012-2014 Land Rovers.
I don't know but I think the lawyers could easily point to Jaguar's oil change recommendation as an admission of fault. I mean why change the oil spec UNLESS there was some reason??
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Got it, I was not familiar with the history behind the increase in weight.
As I've read the tensioner design changed on the later cars to increase tension on start up. One of the issues is the hydraulic tensioner oil inlet gets clogged up.
More than anything I think regular oil changed are most important but this is complicated by the ridiculously long factory interval.
I vividly remember when buying my car with 55k miles on it asking the seller about frequency of oil changes. He was a car guy but not in the same sense as most here. "Every 10k miles" was pretty scary to hear.
Realistically, how much difference can there be in those two oils?
I won't bore you with a long diatribe on the subject but there are reams and reams of words on this forum about "best oil" and "correct oil" for the AJ133 V8 and AJ126 V6, 5W-20 vs 0W-20, and the differences between those oils, the debate is never ending.
All I will say is that I recently changed from ILSAC GF-5 spec oil to the new(ish) ILSAC GF-6Â spec and at the same time I changed from 5W-20 to 0W-20 because, and only because, I could not find any ILSAC GF-6A in 5W-20 other than some very expensive imported offerings, while ILSAC GF-6A in a quality fully synthetic 0W-20 oil is freely available at my local auto parts store at a very good price.
I suggest you read up on ILSAC GF-6A.
I won't bore you with a long diatribe on the subject but there are reams and reams of words on this forum about "best oil" and "correct oil" for the AJ133 V8 and AJ126 V6, 5W-20 vs 0W-20, and the differences between those oils, the debate is never ending.
All I will say is that I recently changed from ILSAC GF-5 spec oil to the new(ish) ILSAC GF-6Â spec and at the same time I changed from 5W-20 to 0W-20 because, and only because, I could not find any ILSAC GF-6A in 5W-20 other than some very expensive imported offerings, while ILSAC GF-6A in a quality fully synthetic 0W-20 oil is freely available at my local auto parts store at a very good price.
I suggest you read up on ILSAC GF-6A.
In a nutshell, G-6 has better oil properties. Gezzz Oz, you could have just told me that from the get go
Originally Posted by OzXFRView Post I won't bore you with a long diatribe on the subject but there are reams and reams of words on this forum about "best oil" and "correct oil" for the AJ133 V8 and AJ126 V6, 5W-20 vs 0W-20, and the differences between those oils, the debate is never ending.
All I will say is that I recently changed from ILSAC GF-5 spec oil to the new(ish) ILSAC GF-6Â spec and at the same time I changed from 5W-20 to 0W-20 because, and only because, I could not find any ILSAC GF-6A in 5W-20 other than some very expensive imported offerings, while ILSAC GF-6A in a quality fully synthetic 0W-20 oil is freely available at my local auto parts store at a very good price.
I suggest you read up on ILSAC GF-6A.
At the risk of hijacking the thread but perhaps of interest to others, (excluding the new spec ILSAC GF-6) are many of you now using 0-20 VS 5-20? According to Mobil Oils website all of their MOBIL 1 full synthetics now meet the GF-6 specifications, although I just checked several of my containers and they only reference GF-5. I suspect the reason of the lowering viscosity recommendation by Jag (and indeed one of the features in the GF-6) is reduction of sludge build up. Makes sense I guess but since I have never used a 0-anything in other vehicles, I am curious. BTW one other benefit of 0-20 from Jaguar's perspective could be increased fuel economy. Could this be driving Jags revision?
Originally Posted by OzXFRView Post I won't bore you with a long diatribe on the subject but there are reams and reams of words on this forum about "best oil" and "correct oil" for the AJ133 V8 and AJ126 V6, 5W-20 vs 0W-20, and the differences between those oils, the debate is never ending.
All I will say is that I recently changed from ILSAC GF-5 spec oil to the new(ish) ILSAC GF-6Â spec and at the same time I changed from 5W-20 to 0W-20 because, and only because, I could not find any ILSAC GF-6A in 5W-20 other than some very expensive imported offerings, while ILSAC GF-6A in a quality fully synthetic 0W-20 oil is freely available at my local auto parts store at a very good price.
I suggest you read up on ILSAC GF-6A.
At the risk of hijacking the thread but perhaps of interest to others, (excluding the new spec ILSAC GF-6) are many of you now using 0-20 VS 5-20? According to Mobil Oils website all of their MOBIL 1 full synthetics now meet the GF-6 specifications, although I just checked several of my containers and they only reference GF-5. I suspect the reason of the lowering viscosity recommendation by Jag (and indeed one of the features in the GF-6) is reduction of sludge build up. Makes sense I guess but since I have never used a 0-anything in other vehicles, I am curious. BTW one other benefit of 0-20 from Jaguar's perspective could be increased fuel economy. Could this be driving Jags revision?
Yes one of the main benefits of GF-6 is reduced sludge build up and sludge is the big enemy of the timing chains and tensioners etc on the AJ133 and AJ126.
I have commented elsewhere that IMHO the main reason that JLR switched the recommended oil spec from 5W-20 to 0W-20 was so they could eke out another one or two mpg on the lab fuel economy test, mainly for CAFE and Euro "emissions" figures and related "gas guzzler" tax costs. The lower viscosity oil is (very) slightly more fuel efficient in lab tests but makes no real difference in the real world.
On looking in the oil fill, my 2013 XF 5.0 SC appears to have the larger 8 mm pitch chains. Does this indicate that it would also have the upgraded tensioners? Or were those upgrades done in stages over time, so not necessarily? TIA
On looking in the oil fill, my 2013 XF 5.0 SC appears to have the larger 8 mm pitch chains. Does this indicate that it would also have the upgraded tensioners? Or were those upgrades done in stages over time, so not necessarily? TIA
The upgrades were all done in one hit you can't mix and match the different components.
So if you have the later chains you also have the later guides and tensioners.
The upgrades were all done in one hit you can't mix and match the different components.
So if you have the later chains you also have the later guides and tensioners.
Actually the 6.35mm setup is the one to have. I believe it was only changed to 8mm when Tata bought Jag from Ford and decided to save money and that is when the unreliability started with the tensioners. The 6.35mm components are way higher standard and the guides had plastic inserts which did not wear. They started breaking when the designers decided to have steel pushing on aluminum.
6.35mm components.....
See the bad angle that the tensioner pushes at on this early 8mm I had to rebuild. It had not caused a problem though. Chains had stretched because engine was out of oil and eventually seized two rods.
Thanks for the great pictures Kansasbrit! But it sounds like you recommend the early 6.35 stuff but from what I read it's almost non-existent now and you can only get the 8mm versions?
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It's my understanding that the early tensioners oil uptake port (for lack of a better description) is of a poorer design and blockage (from low quality oil, basically the factory 10k interval) leads to failure particularly on start up and the ratcheting system to hold pressure on the chain?
02-13-2022, 08:52 AM
