3.0 SC engine noise
#1
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I pulled the SC belt off my car and ran the engine. It definitely needed the Coupler but I wanted to check for any engine issues since I am tearing it down. Ran the engine without the belt and I heard what sounds like a buzz. I don't know what these engines sound like so I am posting up here.
To me it sounds like something in the front of the engine. Hoping it not a chain but There is no slap or chain sounding grind ( from what I am familiar with)
While in there I am doing the water pump etc ( sounds a bit like that to me actually but have never heard what these sound like on their way out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBuY...ature=youtu.be
To me it sounds like something in the front of the engine. Hoping it not a chain but There is no slap or chain sounding grind ( from what I am familiar with)
While in there I am doing the water pump etc ( sounds a bit like that to me actually but have never heard what these sound like on their way out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBuY...ature=youtu.be
Last edited by Jssaab; 10-12-2019 at 02:56 PM.
#2
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Yep, that sounds a bit noisier than it should.
From my reading (and from the sound of my engine) I reckon there are three suspects, it could by any or all of them - the timing chains, the timing chain tensioners and the high pressure fuel pumps.
Prime suspects and the easiest to check are the high pressure fuel pumps, one each side at the front of the engine down low, it has been known for the bearings on these to wear and become rattly.
Get yourself a mechanics stethoscope (plenty on Fleabay going cheap) and have a listen/poke around, you may be able to pinpoint where the noise is coming from.
Of course be very careful of the moving drive belts!
From my reading (and from the sound of my engine) I reckon there are three suspects, it could by any or all of them - the timing chains, the timing chain tensioners and the high pressure fuel pumps.
Prime suspects and the easiest to check are the high pressure fuel pumps, one each side at the front of the engine down low, it has been known for the bearings on these to wear and become rattly.
Get yourself a mechanics stethoscope (plenty on Fleabay going cheap) and have a listen/poke around, you may be able to pinpoint where the noise is coming from.
Of course be very careful of the moving drive belts!
#3
#4
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I don't think that's fuel pumps, the frequency of the buzz is too high given the revs of the engine - DI fuel pump noise is more than a tick than a buzz, and it def can be LOUD, but at a much lower frequency than that. I've got it bad even with new fuel injectors, pipes, (allegedly) genuine bosch fuel pumps, followers and cam following my engine rebuild, but there's definitely a loud click and using a ghetto mechanic's stethoscope (a large flatblade screwdriver pressed hard against my ear) it's very coming from the fuel system, but not sure what else further I can do to get rid of the noise!
Could it be electronic throttle motor or supercharger bypass valve? Unplug the throttle body or the valve at idle and see if it stops - it shouldn't stall the car - though this will throw a code so you may want to have a way of clearing them before doing that.
Could it be electronic throttle motor or supercharger bypass valve? Unplug the throttle body or the valve at idle and see if it stops - it shouldn't stall the car - though this will throw a code so you may want to have a way of clearing them before doing that.
Last edited by davetibbs; 10-12-2019 at 05:54 PM.
#5
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Thanks all
.It does feel a bit like the chain is rubbing somewhere inside the housing at the top of the motor. Had a similar issue many years ago on my Triumph
Is there a way to measure slack in the chains without a complete dissection? My Saabs all had a spring tensioner you could pull and measure
I will poke around a bit. and report back
.It does feel a bit like the chain is rubbing somewhere inside the housing at the top of the motor. Had a similar issue many years ago on my Triumph
Is there a way to measure slack in the chains without a complete dissection? My Saabs all had a spring tensioner you could pull and measure
I will poke around a bit. and report back
#6
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Something in the fuel line. That bad boy screams. @OzXFR get a beer on me. PM me your paypal, I'm serious
I let the car warm until the idle slowed and the sound became much quieter ( I didn't run it that much before thinking it would be a bad idea if it was something else) It even went silent a few times for a few seconds..
I used the "ghetto stethoscope" ( Thanks for that @davetibbs that was a new one on me). I used a mini prybar that had the shank all the way through the handle. I went to the fuel line on top of the intercooler and it buzzed crazy. No where else up top did I hear it.
So the next questions, Is it just loud or does it mean imminent failure. or poor performance, more harm later, how much for parts, any DIY for pump replacement?
I am going to finish the Supercharger and crossover pipes, water pump and other plastic bits. Let me know if doing all this will let me get to the pumps easier.
Again thanks to the members here...
I let the car warm until the idle slowed and the sound became much quieter ( I didn't run it that much before thinking it would be a bad idea if it was something else) It even went silent a few times for a few seconds..
I used the "ghetto stethoscope" ( Thanks for that @davetibbs that was a new one on me). I used a mini prybar that had the shank all the way through the handle. I went to the fuel line on top of the intercooler and it buzzed crazy. No where else up top did I hear it.
So the next questions, Is it just loud or does it mean imminent failure. or poor performance, more harm later, how much for parts, any DIY for pump replacement?
I am going to finish the Supercharger and crossover pipes, water pump and other plastic bits. Let me know if doing all this will let me get to the pumps easier.
Again thanks to the members here...
#7
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I've attached some relevant workshop manual sections - these are for the 5.0 but probably still largely apply. Removal of the fuel pumps requires removal of the alternator and starter, in order to access the fixing bolts for the high-pressure fuel lines which 100% have to be loosened in order to get the space to get the fuel pumps out.
Do you have SDD + cable? There's a service function that shuts of fuel pumps in turn on idle to identify which one (if it is one) causing noise. My Autel DS808 replicates it.
Given the frequency of the buzz I'm wondering if it's a noisy injector...
Do you have SDD + cable? There's a service function that shuts of fuel pumps in turn on idle to identify which one (if it is one) causing noise. My Autel DS808 replicates it.
Given the frequency of the buzz I'm wondering if it's a noisy injector...
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#8
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Thanks Dave,
I appreciate the documents.
I only have a iCarsoft 930, I have not played with it much but so not think it has any EEI control functions. If I pulled the plug from each pump one at a time would it run or shut down if I can;t do it with the controller?
I will crawl under there this weekend and see if I can hear anything at the pump level. I would imagine if it was an injector the vibration would not resonate all the way to the pump ( but I guess it could)
It looks as though it would be easier to get to the fuel line with the SC removed but I will take a quick look.
I iwll post back after I get a chance to look it over.
I think I will go ahead and rebuild the SC and replace the leaking crossover water pump and other bits now and take it to my dealership to diagnose before driving it routinely. ( They are very nice and do nto charge for a quick diagnosis of you point them in the right direction and they do not do an entire system check.)
I appreciate the documents.
I only have a iCarsoft 930, I have not played with it much but so not think it has any EEI control functions. If I pulled the plug from each pump one at a time would it run or shut down if I can;t do it with the controller?
I will crawl under there this weekend and see if I can hear anything at the pump level. I would imagine if it was an injector the vibration would not resonate all the way to the pump ( but I guess it could)
It looks as though it would be easier to get to the fuel line with the SC removed but I will take a quick look.
I iwll post back after I get a chance to look it over.
I think I will go ahead and rebuild the SC and replace the leaking crossover water pump and other bits now and take it to my dealership to diagnose before driving it routinely. ( They are very nice and do nto charge for a quick diagnosis of you point them in the right direction and they do not do an entire system check.)
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