5.0 S/C Engine Rebuild
#363
#366
#367
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That's the lower timing chain oiler - from memory, it doesn't have a gasket, and just bolts into the end of the windage tray above the fuel pump cam. You can see mine mounted in post #163 of this thread, in the pic showing the aux timing chain fitted.
I don't recognize this part, so I guess it's part of the normally aspirated (as opposed to supercharged) setup?
I don't recognize this part, so I guess it's part of the normally aspirated (as opposed to supercharged) setup?
#370
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For future reference, if you set a title on a reply to a thread it's pretty hard to read, but I saw it - exhaust manifold bolts.
I struggled with these too - officially it's a "Polydrive" or a "Ribe" head, but the Ribe bit socket sets I got off Amazon would not fit them - ditto the head bolts. If I remember rightly I found the closest Torx bit that would fit (so I guess T50?) and this worked OK.
Especially with the exhaust manifold bolts they don't need to be that tight so you can probably get away with using a Torx bit. I also bought some standard bolts from Home Depot that had the same thread as the manifold bolts but a bit longer and cut the head off as well as a vertical cut in the remaining shaft with a whiz wheel. That way you have studs you can screw into/out of the head with a stubby flat blade screwdriver, which you can use to center the manifold like the special tool in the workshop manual without having to pay for it.
I struggled with these too - officially it's a "Polydrive" or a "Ribe" head, but the Ribe bit socket sets I got off Amazon would not fit them - ditto the head bolts. If I remember rightly I found the closest Torx bit that would fit (so I guess T50?) and this worked OK.
Especially with the exhaust manifold bolts they don't need to be that tight so you can probably get away with using a Torx bit. I also bought some standard bolts from Home Depot that had the same thread as the manifold bolts but a bit longer and cut the head off as well as a vertical cut in the remaining shaft with a whiz wheel. That way you have studs you can screw into/out of the head with a stubby flat blade screwdriver, which you can use to center the manifold like the special tool in the workshop manual without having to pay for it.
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Last edited by kansanbrit; 07-06-2020 at 02:25 PM. Reason: Photos added
#372
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kansanbrit (07-07-2020)
#373
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A definite difference between the engines at least is that the SC engines have oil cooling jets that spray underneath the pistons - these are fed off a common rail running along the center of the block. However, I'm not sure if the threaded holes for the oil cooler jets exist on the NA block and are just plugged, or if they're not drilled/tapped at all. You'd have to get a pic inside an NA block to know for sure, I've only been inside my SC engine ![Frown](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/frown.gif)
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#374
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Panthro (05-14-2024)
#375
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Yes, I've seen it - it may well have been the plan, as with a lot of things in the manuals (including showing a "Low Oil Pressure" warning in the owner's manual, that apparently has no way of being triggered with the V8 engine) - however, I've never seen any evidence of these messages actually appearing, and it certainly didn't in my car despite the oil level being way below minimum safe level going on how much I drained out, or apparently in any of the other cars this has happened to.
I'm not sure why these messages are listed in the service manual but apparently don't actually appear in reality - if I had to guess, it's for the same reason that you're forced to wait 10 minutes after engine shut-off before you get an oil level reading: with all the oil circulating around the engine it's hard to get an accurate level measurement. They probably found the warnings were too inaccurate and simply disabled them, but aside from going to JLR (who, aware of the issues with spun bearings etc in these engines, might not be so willing to be open about it) it's an answer we may never know.
I'm not sure why these messages are listed in the service manual but apparently don't actually appear in reality - if I had to guess, it's for the same reason that you're forced to wait 10 minutes after engine shut-off before you get an oil level reading: with all the oil circulating around the engine it's hard to get an accurate level measurement. They probably found the warnings were too inaccurate and simply disabled them, but aside from going to JLR (who, aware of the issues with spun bearings etc in these engines, might not be so willing to be open about it) it's an answer we may never know.
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Panthro (05-14-2024)
#377
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"Head gasket problem" always sounds like "potential overheating" to me, which could mean that the (aluminum) block is warped, as these engines don't take overheating well. If that's the case, you'd need to have the block out to an engineering shop to see if it can be saved.
However, strictly, you can remove/replace heads and head gasket with the engine in the car.
#378
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I'm not sure why these messages are listed in the service manual but apparently don't actually appear in reality - if I had to guess, it's for the same reason that you're forced to wait 10 minutes after engine shut-off before you get an oil level reading: with all the oil circulating around the engine it's hard to get an accurate level measurement. They probably found the warnings were too inaccurate and simply disabled them, but aside from going to JLR (who, aware of the issues with spun bearings etc in these engines, might not be so willing to be open about it) it's an answer we may never know.
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Gus (12-26-2020)
#380