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Yes the Ford 6 speed is a copy of the ZF and is built under license from ZF. Not an exact copy but still very close. The interesting thing I found is the Ford units have a short little hidden dipstick? It's on the passenger side and is right next to the exhaust so it's still a pain to get to and operate!
Here is a picture and it requires a socket to get it out.
So at least the Ford guys can check fluid level the old way.
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WAIT!!!!!! You mean to tell me you don't like laying on you back under the car with no room to work, a lava hot catalytic converter that you are required to lean your arm on the entire time, and a level method of, "If it only drips so often...??????"
Wouldn't you use the Eaton Compressor map? According to this one for the R1900 Shows the charger tops out at 2000 cubic meters per hour. The boost may be able to go to 36-36 PSI absolute pressure but can't amke any more than that. You msut be reading absolute not guage persure (absolute less 14.7) (2.4 bar absolute pressure less 1 bar -14.7 is 21 PSI on the y axis is psi but there is not increase in flow, and flow is what make your car go. Otherwise things start to chole it off, like the throttle body heads vavles exhaust... On this map
Oddly, as I've been talking with @boostedxf I think I may have stumbled on one of the biggest gains for our engines....and that's valve lift. I was comparing the Coyote engines to the AJ133, and one thing I found very interesting is that our engines (SC variant) only have a 10mm(intake) lift and a 9.36mm(exhaust) lift. The coyote engines start at 12mm of lift(Gen 1) and got to 14mm of lift (Gen 3). So, the obvious next question is whether we could run their cams on our engines? Now, the page I found does reference the fact that their valves are a little bigger than our, 37mm if memory serves, and as such, they require larger reliefs in the pistons to ensure clearance. But....if we were running Coyote pistons with a coyote cam....we've now increased air flow by almost 40%....and that's a HUGE increase! (Of course, timing and all that fun stuff will have to be cross checked to ensure we're not overlapping any functionality....
...it's a thought.
quick edit, here's the page I found the Coyote info on:
No, from my 2010 AJ133 with 6.35mm chains.
Pretty sure Coyote cams will not fit as engines are almost certainly two completely independent designs.
Hey just noticed my choice of wording wasn’t exactly what I meant. I meant to ask if it could have been designed for the Ford Coyote. I realized this sounds like I meant to ask if it came off of one. But just a glance it appears the two engines share similar timing components. Not saying they’re exactly the same but I have an 2011 5.0SC with the 6.35mm chains and mine don’t look like that. Nor did the OEM ones I replaced have the ratchet (may not have been visible but still different design) where as the Coyote has nearly the same design.
I just wish we could still buy the 6.35mm timing kits....they're so much nicer and a better design! My motor came with the 6.35mm set up, but I'm having to convert it to the 8mm style because you can't get any of the "old" design. (Please feel free to direct me where to buy them....cause I totally will!)
If you ask me, it was just JLR saving money with a cheaper chain/tensioner, and that's why they made the switch. The 6.35mm chain is clearly a higher quality, and the larger tooth area of the 6.35mm is IMO also better....plus I have never heard of a 6.35mm issue with the tensioner system....that was only on the early 8mm systems.
Yes I totally agree with everything you say tapps33, that's why I only changed two guides (fixed) in one of my engines which had the 6.35 setup and left the rest in there as it all looked like it would do a million miles. I did find the guides without too much difficulty. I'm sure the change was just cost saving by Ford management.
Last edited by kansanbrit; 09-01-2022 at 08:05 AM.
Honestly, aside from the tensioners…which I haven’t checked to see if the new ones I’ve got will work with the 6.35mm style, the only other piece that I want to change…we’ll, just because, are the cam variators. Although, there is a good section in the manual on how to break them down and clean/rebuild them…
Yes I totally agree with everything you say tapps33, that's why I only changed two guides (fixed) in one of my engines which had the 6.35 setup and left the rest in there as it all looked like it would do a million miles. I did find the guides without too much difficulty. I'm sure the change was just cost saving by Ford management.
Weren't Tata in control (owners) of JLR when the changes were made. They completed the deal in 2008, around May I think.
If you do find a replacement crank let me know if yours is damaged I would be interested in it I'm not looking to use it for anything more than having a forged crank made to the stock crank specs my goal is to build a full motor that has Darton sleeved and fully forged internals
did you ever end up going through with this? I’ve been looking and I found a manufacturer that produces the forged internal rotating assembly that Arden sells. For $30k.. but I haven’t gone any further into contacting them or anything. Just curious if you had actually had one made or not.
I contacted King's cranshaft back in the day and they said they could do it for $4500 but I can't find them anymore. I can't find anything on the internet anymore. I think Bryant will make one offs and https://www.scatcrankshafts.com/
Hey Guys! So, I know this is a long way off the original topic @davetibbs started, but does anyone have a junked block laying around? Long story even longer, I've been in contact with Darton Sleeves and they're willing to engineer/design a set of MID Sleeves for the AJ133 as long as I provide them with a scrap block to prototype, and buy some sleeves of course.
I had someone close by that was going to sell me his scrapped block but he vanished. Soooooo.... I thought if anyone might have something laying around, it's this crew! As I've said on other forums, I'm in the Memphis area, but would be willing to cover freight to get it to Darton!
On a good note, if we finally have sleeves for this block, we wouldn't have to trash them every time the head blows! Additionally, the MID sleeves that Darton makes will "transform" the AJ133 from open deck to a semi closed deck design....MUCH stronger that it was before...although cooling performance will have to be evaluated real time.
For those of you who don't know, these are the Darton mid sleeves:
Hey Guys! So, I know this is a long way off the original topic @davetibbs started, but does anyone have a junked block laying around? Long story even longer, I've been in contact with Darton Sleeves and they're willing to engineer/design a set of MID Sleeves for the AJ133 as long as I provide them with a scrap block to prototype, and buy some sleeves of course.
I had someone close by that was going to sell me his scrapped block but he vanished. Soooooo.... I thought if anyone might have something laying around, it's this crew! As I've said on other forums, I'm in the Memphis area, but would be willing to cover freight to get it to Darton!
On a good note, if we finally have sleeves for this block, we wouldn't have to trash them every time the head blows! Additionally, the MID sleeves that Darton makes will "transform" the AJ133 from open deck to a semi closed deck design....MUCH stronger that it was before...although cooling performance will have to be evaluated real time.
For those of you who don't know, these are the Darton mid sleeves:
Darton already has sleeves that will fit this motor and on the outside to reinforce the cylinder walls you wouldn't need to use a blocked filler it's like an apoxy once it's hardened you drill your hole pattern in it and it allows water passage.
The engine block filler has been used for many years and a lot of cars it is proven.
If I had a spare block I would have already had a built motor.
Darton already has sleeves that will fit this motor and on the outside to reinforce the cylinder walls you wouldn't need to use a blocked filler it's like an apoxy once it's hardened you drill your hole pattern in it and it allows water passage.
The engine block filler has been used for many years and a lot of cars it is proven.
If I had a spare block I would have already had a built motor.
Not to argue, but I've spoken with Darton multiple times recently and they have informed me they have sleeves for the 4.2 and 4.4 blocks, but not the 5.0. Granted, it looks like @kansanbrit found something that'll work, I'm just not sure who made it.
That said, I did get different answers every time I called, so who really knows. What I do know is that I spoke to Steve their lead machinist, and the owner of the MID sleeve patent, and he hasn't designed a set for the AJ133 yet. Give the fact that I'm going to attempt a higher HP build, anything I can do to reliably increase the strength of the block, I'd like to pursue.
However, you have my attention regarding this block filler/epoxy bore method. Do you have any info on it? What's the longevity of the epoxy compound? Heat stress issues? This sounds like interesting stuff!
I had a block repaired last year with a sleeve by my local machine shop, no big deal, not sure why specials would be necessary.
Any chance you figure out the exact cause of this particular failure? I smoked two pistons when they saw 30 +/- psi of boost and even then, I hardly scored my sleeve. But this is a fully cracked/ chipped sleeve. Which really begs the question to me of how in the hell this was done. Any chance was this remapped? Mine was and had a faulty map loaded for a decent amount of time which I think had a lot of not all to do with the pistons failing.