Greetings,
First this appears as though it will be a long post...so hang in there.

I have compiled some info that I think might be handy for some new people such as myself looking to upgrade pulleys, like what pulley sizes do we have and what is available? Are there hidden options for pulleys that we haven't spoken of? If I choose upper and lower pulleys, how close am I to inefficiency? My disclaimer is that I am not an engineer, I suck at math, I am not a JAG TECH (although I feel like as many as I have worked on I should maybe be an honorary member or something), I also may be blowing in the wind, so if you find this information to be incorrect, please feel free to correct and heckle as necessary. I am just an old car guy that loves the power these cars put out, and exhaustive searching through the forums answers some of the question I/we have, but sometimes the wrong keyword during a search and you can miss a whole useful section of information. It is also possible that I have studied someone's misinformation...I would read this taken with a grain of salt. So without further wait...

I will start with a question. Has anyone attempted to use a "GripTec" upper pulley? The Eaton TVS1900 rotor pack design (patented) is also used on the Chevrolet LSA engine, CTS-V gen2 and Camaro ZL1 gen 5 with the same shaft diameter as our Jaguars. This Chevrolet association can make parts much more available and cheaper when you search, such as the aforementioned pulley. Below is a picture of the GripTec upper pulley.

2 piece with titanium bolts

I have one of these on the way and I will advise the outcome of the install, but from everything I have seen, it will work and the range of upper pulleys is much larger that the ones we currently have. Given the lower crank pulleys that are available to us, if you have the money for one, you could even run the largest crank pulley and a larger upper pulley and increase your belt contact patch and prevent slippage, not to mention the GripTec is designed and coated to minimize that anyway.

So some parameters upfront. The Eaton TVS1900 has a top rotor speed of 18,000 RPM, anything above that steps into inefficiency land. The drive ratio of the Eaton is 1:1. The engine RPM used for the calculations is 6,500. For reference I got my calculations from CAPA Performance's calculator, feel free to do your own calculations especially if you have your RPMs higher or lower than 6,500. CAPA Performance

Our most popular current pulley choices:
Upper:
66mm OEM Stock 5.0
62mm OEM for the V6 but a popular upgrade with us 5.0 guys and gals
60.5 mm this one may or may not require some grinding of high spots or some reduction in snout size

Lower:
152mm OEM Stock 5.0
170mm 11.8 percent increase, sold by our popular Jag upgrade people except PARAMOUNT (taken from their webpage)
174mm 15 percent increase, sold by PARAMOUNT per their website.

Here are some of the combinations and the produced rotor speed:
upper/lower = rotor RPM
Stock lower pulley
66/152 = 14,971 This is the stock setup on the 5.0 S/C
62/152 = 15,940
60.5/152 = 16,335

Stock Upper pulley
66/152 = 14,971 This is the stock setup on the 5.0 S/C
66/170 = 16,742 This is the lower swap only
66/174 = 17,138 This is the lower swap only

Aftermarket pulley combos upper and lower
62/170 = 17,827
60.5/170 = 18,268*** Overspeed
62/174 = 18,247*** Overspeed
60.5/174 = 18,700*** Overspeed

So lets say you were plagued with belt slippage, but you wanted to be close to that 18K number, if the GripTec is a feasible option (and I'm certain it is) you could run the Paramount 174mm lower and order the GripTec 2.5in upper pulley (they only do imperial lol) and you could produce 17,810rpm but with a much greater belt surface contact area to the upper pulley (not counting the anti-slip design of their pulleys) to minimize any slippage.

I have been all over the LS tech and similar pages, forums etc. and there is a lot of information that the Chevy guys have amassed about the TVS 1900. Since there are probably a quadrillion or so Chevys on the road compared to our very limited Jags, it makes sense to see what they have to say data and experience wise, and see how much we can bring back to our component pieces to help performance. I will say this, you can get about any size upper pulley you desire from GripTec being limited only by our snout size. You can place your S/C rpm wherever you like.

The last thing I have to say is BOOST vs RPM.... so this portion can be very opinionated for some people, and that's ok, voice your opinion. If you monitor your boost, you may be surprised when you do some bolt ons and your boost drops (or increases), things like cat removal, headers, exhaust, intake can all have an impact on your actual boost numbers. This doesn't necessarily mean its a drop in performance, because the name of the game is FLOW lol I am attaching a link to KENNE BELL on causes of low boost pressure, which he rarely attributes it to a bad supercharger. https://kennebell.net/tech/superchar...-causes-cures/
I hope this helps somebody.

Thanks for reading ..and be gentle lol

 

VelocityAP is a pretty solid Jaguar tuner and offers a pulley with a grip-tech option Add Grip-Tech Coating to VEL-JLR5.0SCPULLEY – Velocity Automotive Performance (velocityap.com)

 

That's great, I hope many more reply here with options like you just mentioned about VelocityAP. The veterans here, have a lot to offer to get us new users literally "up to speed". Sometimes that information is difficult to harvest from the forum using the search option... at least for me. I have stumbled across a lot of information here by just browsing, that I had purposely searched for and couldn't find earlier.

 

VelocityAP and many other companies have been going over and beyond the Eaton rated max efficiency rpm for years. The AJ126 and AJ133 are limited to the max crank diameter by a physical restriction. So, for this example lets change to a brand like Audi that also uses a TVS1320 for the 3.0L cars and has little physical restriction to crank diameter (unlike AJ126 and AJ133). The Eaton spec for the TVS1320 is 20,000rpm, numerous companies had found the sweet spot to be 24,000rpm, at providing the best performance BUT increases the charged pressure temperature excessively, these vehicle owners are required to upgrade things like the heat exchanger, run an ice box, plumb in water/meth, or even run a refrigerant cooling method like killer chiller.

Basically, to sum it up the easiest I can possible; What we've all noticed about the Eaton's "efficiency" for rpm limits, it's really just the point at which the charged air will drastically shoot up in temperature, requiring more cooling than what the stock system has to offer.

On the TVS1900 for the 5.0L platform, I've run our latest test vehicle (2016 F-Type R) with our VAP Crank which is 177mm, and a 62.5mm Griptec coated pulley. The charged temps post intercooler did not raise past +64C on the first run(sitting with engine off gets intercoolers hot) and after 5 back-to-back 1/4mile runs with NO downtime(literally back into staging on return) the charged temps peaked 61-62C, that's shifting at 7,000rpm.

That would bring the 5.0L TVS1900 SC speed to 19,824rpm, +1,824rpm past the max rpm efficient from Eaton...that car ran 10.97-11.05sec all day from 9am to 4:30pm with ambient at 16C in morning hours and reaching peak of 21C near 4:30pm, the DA started the day at 823FT and ended with DA 1233ft..we sit at 1050ft. Also to mention, that car has zero cooling mods, just our pulleys and our tuned for engine+transmission.

We do have some ideas shooting around the office, concerning ideas of a larger PR (pulley ratios) but those are just thoughts in the air right (No ETA..not even a project yet). Basically, before we create a larger PR than our current offerings, we'd need to come up with some products designed to upgrade the cooling during the run. There's many ppl that will upgrade to a larger heat exchanger from what's available on the market, those units are good, but that only reduces the "recovery" time and not the charged air temps during the run. We've honestly never tested the F-Type aftermarket upgraded heat exchangers to even know that the recovery times would be reducing the delta range in time over the stock unit (but that's the idea). Things like the aux cooler pump, intercooler design, fluid type and refrigerant cooling method, would all play a part in reducing the charged air temps during the run.

@GoFaster Btw, you are not wrong in mentioning boost amount is related to parts added. The best way to think of it, "boost" is a calculation that is based upon "exhaust restriction". If you reduce the restriction, less "boost" will be created BUT the power can be the same or more with a lower IAT temperature. For example, our TVS1900 pulley combo will generate 15psi and I've seen high as 25psi on runs that melted/blocked the catalysts.

 

Thank you for the input... and BTW...I'll take 10.90s all day . I'm in my infancy on the 5.0 S/C...just knew I wanted one from the first one I saw. I would love to do the "recommended" cooling upgrades I have read about on the forum, but they are a little more expensive than most pulleys. So those will come with time I hope.

 

excellent information. What are your thoughts on porting the superchargers and e85?

 

This and I am curious how much of the IAT are based on compression of the blower and how much is from absorbing the ambient motor heat into the inter-cooler and intake components? I am sure it all adds up but at what ratios? Knowing that will make for the most educated cooling mods first that make the biggest difference. I raced my XFR last month and the IAT heat soaked in the 100F ambient pits with humidity and multiple runs to 186F. The car pulled all the power and I had no boost. I lost my race due to heat soak.

I don't think a passive inter-cooler setup will help this. I think insulating heat sources, insulating cool sources and killer chillers and separate 12V A/C compressors, E85 with water injection would be the only thing that could prevent that from happening again IMO. I even had a brilliant idea running the water dumps off of both A/C compressor driers into the water injection tank so I won't have to refill the tank ever. Tank has own bypass so car fills up it's own cooling juice. In a humid place like Florida, those water dumps have heavy flow when they are on.

 

I've actually started a home project on porting a TVS1320 for the AJ126/3.0L. Porting is always great for extra power, providing it's done correctly. I've seen some real hack jobs that open up the exit and then complain about performance loss...

E85 is something we've been experimenting with recently, we tested far as E50 which resulted in running out of pressure. Believe I resolved the issue to go with more higher ethanol ratio, but we need to get back out testing again to confirm. However, with winter colder/weather arriving in our region, it's not the best scenario to test with ethanol.

 

I think my xf is the first one to have a griptech pulley and it works. Its the same suppercharger from chevy with the lsa motor. I had a cts v and the blower sounds identical to the xf when you start to mod the xf it completely changes. Port blower throttle body and 3" full exhaust and it Sounds like a wipple 5.0 mustang

 

What kind of gains did you see from porting the throttle body and exhaust?

 

you might be Ricky! Also your the fastest XF SC 5.0 , XFR, XFR-S, XKR and XKR-S cars on record! Did you ever get faster than 11.2 time yet? We still have more room in the tune for more power when your ready..

 

So I got the Griptec pulley on.... what a chore! But now that I have done it... I believe I could do it much faster and easier. I created lots of work for myself.
For starters, I bought the mina pulley puller, but then bought a cheap balancer puller to do the work...broke the cheap puller in the first 30 seconds, mina is in great shape though! On to the next more substantial bar type pulley/balancer puller. Put so much pressure on it that the bolts started twisting. Against my better judgement, I used a small propane torch to heat the nose of the pulley while it was under the pressure of the puller, in just a few seconds it popped and moved slightly...then I removed it like normal. I originally started with a regular little propane style torch to heat the Griptec hub, but felt like it wasnt going to be hot enough and switched to my regular torch with a heating tip. While doing this I used a can of compressed air and turned it upside down and used the super chilled propellant to cool the S/C shaft....(I recommend having a helper do this) by just easily pulling the trigger on the can and letting it more or less run down over the shaft. Once I felt it was ready, I slid it easily on the shaft..but it wasnt flush yet...I twisted and finally tapped it easily with a small hammer and it slid on further.......but not flush.....eek...what do I do? Well, here is the plot twist. I put the outer puller on the hub after cooling everything with water...and .... it was too far back, out of alignment. Which tells me when the pulley naturally stopped the first time before I assisted it further...was the perfect spot and I should have left it alone. NEWS FLASH...ITS NOT SUPPOSED TO FIT FLUSH ON GRIPTEC HUBS......So now what? How do you get that tiny hub off the shaft, none of the pullers will grab it. After some pressure between the snout and hub, while applying heat, then cooling 3 or 4 times I got it in place all while paying close attention to keeping as much heat from the bearing as possible and cooling quickly. It is now on and I love it along with AlphaJag's tune, it feels like a beast.
I think now I could do one in an hour with a minimum of fuss. I like that Griptec offers lots of options and is comparible in price, I'm glad I went that route but I was a victim of myself (not the first time).

 

Here are some pics of the journey lol

The cheap puller. It cracked down the center bolt area.

The bar type puller, I made the center bolt as the original is very long.

Griptec coating and size. No damge to the original pulley.

Griptec does not fit flush like the factory one does.

I did file any casting marks around the snout and had zero issues with fitment.

 

Found an interesting site that validated all my ideas I posted and did them. So I am not the first to think of all this. Their applications are for the CTSV and Hellcat and other cars like that. They don't have a Jaguar application but they are too expensive anyway. I can get all that done here where I am.

https://fiinterchillers.com/
US Dealer of them
https://www.cspracing.com/interchiller-central/

They did a Killer chiller with the inter-coolers, they insulated the intake and supercharger from the engine heat with a heat shield blanket and even made isolation plates the supercharger sits on to remove the heat transfer. They even use a water injection. They said the block heat and the heat from the head heats up the snout, S/C and the chillers quite a bit. They got their intake temps from over 100F to lower than -7F idling. This is design validation. Spacers, Insulation, K/C and reservoirs. Man I would have been happy with 40F they got -7F. I'm sort of excited to get into this. I wish I had more money and fab skills. I need to finish my race car so I can get into this project. Actually I should do this on both.