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Reviving my old thread....
finally getting around to making an air channel to tunnel air from the grill to the heat exchanger. I also got 3 - 7" fans to wire on the back side of the exchanger.
Issue im running into is fans are too thick with factory heat exchanger in the way.
Question is do i remove the factory heat exchanger to fit the 3 fans, or leave the factory heat exchanger and no fans no larger one? Each fan is moves ALOT of air, so idk which is the better option
Factory one is what, like 20"x16"x1", so 320ci
This on one is 24"x7"x3.5", which would be 588ci, so almost twice the volume...
Reviving my old thread....
finally getting around to making an air channel to tunnel air from the grill to the heat exchanger. I also got 3 - 7" fans to wire on the back side of the exchanger.
Issue im running into is fans are too thick with factory heat exchanger in the way.
Question is do i remove the factory heat exchanger to fit the 3 fans, or leave the factory heat exchanger and no fans no larger one? Each fan is moves ALOT of air, so idk which is the better option
Factory one is what, like 20"x16"x1", so 320ci
This on one is 24"x7"x3.5", which would be 588ci, so almost twice the volume...
Where is your lower radiator, the one that lays flat?
Nevermind, I see that it's not an f type.
Last edited by Terrance39; 10-13-2021 at 09:28 AM.
Didn't mess with fans, but got a shroud made for the front mount. Not professional cuts by any means, but functionality should be there, lol. Not too bad for some ABS, time, and screws.
Screw the cut neatness, that's a fantastic job from a practicality POV - love it. I need to make something similar, was going to go the fiberglass route probably but now you've got me thinking about ABS...
Screw the cut neatness, that's a fantastic job from a practicality POV - love it. I need to make something similar, was going to go the fiberglass route probably but now you've got me thinking about ABS...
heated with heat gun it bend to shape, then had to trim for bumper support and bumper its self. I used 1/8" ABS, a heat gun and a jig saw, lol
What Intake tube is that? Or was that custom? Looks fairly large in diameter. I was planning to make a custom intake tube myself. Did you utilize the washer fluid tank for your meth injection? And how did you route wiring for the controller? Any tips for setting up the controller settings? TIA
-B
Anyone think about buying a water to air intercooler core and just fabricating a much thicker version on the OE heat exchanger? I bought the Forced Induction Interchiller before I smoked my pistons and they said if running drags, they recommend bypassing the heat exchanger all together but I plan to do more circuit type/ mountain pass driving so constant running would be ideal and that is recommended to have another valve to allow flow through a heat exchanger on demand. The solenoid at AC is used to either run chiller only or to split for both cab and chiller. So far evacuated the refrigerant and pulled one AC line. Just need to pull the other and get the fittings TIG welded to them both and set up wiring and fabricate a mount/ area to mount for the chiller. But I finally got my block back from the shop so that’s all put on the back burner while I rebuild the engine. Just thought I’d see if anyone had any experience making their own exchanger for one of these?
I'm assuming you're talking about the heat exchanger that goes inside the supercharger lid? I looked into this, but really there isn't much more space inside the OEM lid + intake manifolds combo - the gap between the bottom of the existing H/E cores and the insides of the intake manifold (which themselves are angled to clear each head) is pretty neglible. I also considered Laminova Heat Exchangers in the middle of the lid in betweent the existing ones, but I think that'd honestly be too much work for the gains you'd realize.
There really isn't a lot of space in that area anyway - I looked at the possibility of fitting meth nozzles between the OEM H/E cores and the OEM IAT (because unfounded or not, I'm reluctant to run the meth through the supercharger, and I'm worried about pooling in the OEM H/E cores if I put the nozzles in the lid), and reached the conclusion that the only way to get the space required for meth nozzles is to have a spacer plate made (3d printed?) for the intercooler lid.
I'm assuming a spacer plate would probably be the best option for getting more space inside the S/C lid which would open the possibility for different H/Es - btw not sure how to remove the old ones, they appear to be bonded in addition to being screwed into the lid, so I didn't go any further than that. My meth plans are on hold while I complete some fairly significant bodywork modifications but if someone finds a place to have spacer plates fabbed I'll happily go in on a couple for experimentation.
Guys the intercooler are under the lid. The heat exchanger is in front of the car that cools the fluid to be sent back to the intercooler. Just didn't want anyone confused.
What Intake tube is that? Or was that custom? Looks fairly large in diameter. I was planning to make a custom intake tube myself. Did you utilize the washer fluid tank for your meth injection? And how did you route wiring for the controller? Any tips for setting up the controller settings? TIA
-B
Yes it was a custom built intake. 3.25 all the way. No I had a burger motorsports tank in the trunk. I had my controller set to start spraying at 5psi and full spray at 11psi.
I'm assuming you're talking about the heat exchanger that goes inside the supercharger lid? I looked into this, but really there isn't much more space inside the OEM lid + intake manifolds combo - the gap between the bottom of the existing H/E cores and the insides of the intake manifold (which themselves are angled to clear each head) is pretty neglible. I also considered Laminova Heat Exchangers in the middle of the lid in betweent the existing ones, but I think that'd honestly be too much work for the gains you'd realize.
There really isn't a lot of space in that area anyway - I looked at the possibility of fitting meth nozzles between the OEM H/E cores and the OEM IAT (because unfounded or not, I'm reluctant to run the meth through the supercharger, and I'm worried about pooling in the OEM H/E cores if I put the nozzles in the lid), and reached the conclusion that the only way to get the space required for meth nozzles is to have a spacer plate made (3d printed?) for the intercooler lid.
I'm assuming a spacer plate would probably be the best option for getting more space inside the S/C lid which would open the possibility for different H/Es - btw not sure how to remove the old ones, they appear to be bonded in addition to being screwed into the lid, so I didn't go any further than that. My meth plans are on hold while I complete some fairly significant bodywork modifications but if someone finds a place to have spacer plates fabbed I'll happily go in on a couple for experimentation.
Hey so I was actually referring to the one in front of the AC condenser/ Radiator assembly. They are so damn tiny. I know that Alisport sells them but for half the price, I could fabricate one myself and have it even bigger than theirs. I have tons of sheet aluminum and an AC/DC Tig welder. As for the meth, ya I actually took my old intake gasket in to this metal supply/ Fabrication shop here in Santa Rosa, California and got quoted $250 per for 1” thick aluminum spacers to get Jet cut to the exact shape of the gasket I provided. So after that would just be drill/ tap for the fittings for Meth. I also was wondering about E85. I purchased an 2014 RR Sport Flex Fuel/ Pressure Sensor which I believe could be fitted in place of the XF/XFRs low side fuel pressure sensor in the driver fender well. Given its placement on the RR Sport and that when I looked into where it plugs into, it was labeled as F/F- Pressure Sensor. And that’s where our sensor is. It’s a same 3 wire connection just different design. But on top of that, if a spacer could be made and it’s big enough, I thought about running dual injection just like the Coyote and just drill and such for Port injectors to each runner. That way there’s no running constant max for the DI system and it’ll sufficiently supply enough fuel to properly run/ tune for E85. It’s just no one has done anything of this sorts (at least not that I’ve been able to find). Anyone have thoughts on that topic?
If I can set aside the time, I’m definitely going to try my best to make a thicker version of our SC heat exchanger. That’s a definite must do in my opinion.